1973 Aquasport 19-6 Rebuild

[thennutts]

Oh alright, thanks fitz for clearing that up. I thought you meant somehow water worked its way up into the motor, I about fell off my chair. Judging by the previous owner, it wouldn't surprise me if the motor was at 7000 rpm's and he was thinking it was totally normal. It compression tested perfectly by a cert. yami service center before I tore into the rebuild. Let's hope she still runs well after I hook her back up 1 1/2 years later.

[Capt Matt]

I would guess a 19-21 pitch prop should do ya. Try as many different style props as you can. Choosing a prop is all about compromise with some being better hole shot, some better top end, etc etc. I look for mpg, cruising speed, and bow lift etc.
Capt Matt

[thennutts]

capt matt,

I live in cape coral, you know of any marinas in our area that I could test props? And then maybe even give me a fair deal on one that I like? To be hoenst, i'm not looking for speed on this boat, from what I hear these boats are not made for speed and actually gets pretty unstable at top speeds. I am interested in hole shot, mid range accel, mpg and lift. Everything you would need to do flats and bay fishing. What are your personal thoughts on a 4 blade prop? Like them? dislike them?

[LilRichard]

There's a prop guy in Sarasota (Ken, Prop Gods) that will meet you somewhere in between and bring an arsenal of propellers to try.  I was planning on doing that until he told me "I know exactly what you need", and I let him ship me the prop.  He was right.

[thennutts]

Lilrich,

Thanks buddy, going to give him a ring and see what his thoughts are!

[GoneFission]

capt matt,

I live in cape coral, you know of any marinas in our area that I could test props? And then maybe even give me a fair deal on one that I like? To be hoenst, i'm not looking for speed on this boat, from what I hear these boats are not made for speed and actually gets pretty unstable at top speeds. I am interested in hole shot, mid range accel, mpg and lift. Everything you would need to do flats and bay fishing. What are your personal thoughts on a 4 blade prop? Like them? dislike them?

I'm a big fan of the 5 blade props.  To me, they are the best mix of hole shot and efficiency - they also run very smooth and turn corners well.  The Quicksilver HighFive 19 pitch I am running now is by far the best performing prop I've had on my boat - and that includes a $1,000 shifter prop.  Good hole shot, better mileage than the 3 blade 19 pitch I had, and runs 43-44 MPH at 5300 wide open and trimmed out on my 22-2CCP with a t-top.

[Capt Matt]

http://www.offshoreperformance.com/OPS% ... PAGEv2.htm

This place in ft myers has the cheapest mercury props around and will let you try anything he has in stock and he is a demo prop dealer. I was amazed at how many props he stocks. Anything you want to try he has.  He has by far the cheapest props around. I saved $150-$200 on the 22p Enertia prop I bought last compared to my local mercury dealer.
I have a couple of 21p props laying around if you want to give them a shot. One is a Trophy plus
4 blade and one is a 3 blade Mirage plus they are a little worn but will give you a idea.

Remember I run a actioncraft 1720se its a 900# hull with a 150opti so I don't really have any clue about the best aquasport prop to run but these are my observations from lots of props I have owned.

The advantages of the Trophy 4 blade was how high I could trim it out of the water without it blowing out, it gave great bow lift and was the best for boat handling. I did loose a little top end and hole shot compared to the 3 blade props. 55mph wot

The Mirage 3 blade was the best all around prop, giving the best hole shot and great cruise and best top end of 60mph gps. It trimmed up well and took some blowing out. White knuckle accellaration, hold on or be thrown to the deck.

The 22p Enertia is amazing for fuel consumption. Thats why I run it. I cruise at 3K rpm doing 30mph burning only 4.5gph thats roughly 7 miles per gallon. Its got a ok top end with the boat doing 57 wot but blows out when trimmed up really high.


Running a porta bracket I would suggest a 4 blade so you can really lift that motor up and run skinny without it blowing out. I think this prop will give you the best handling too.

I had no clue you where building that sweet boat in the Cape. I did not think the city of Cape coral would let you get away with stuff like that lol. I would love to come by and check her out.

If you wanna try my props just drop me a line.

Capt Matt

[thennutts]

Capt Matt,

Killer info man, I appreciate it! I think I will talk to several people and see what the general idea is, hopefully everyone will agree so it will make it easy to choose a prop.

I live in Cape Harbour off Chiquita, the boat is in fort myers at my parents house off Mcgregor. Im there all weekend every weekend if you'd like to see it in person give me a holler. You will def will be seeing me around pine island, sanibel and boca in the summer time when this bad boy gets finished. By the way, how is snook fishing been, dead?

[Capt Matt]

I will have to swing by sometime and check her out.
Fishing has been typical winter action with lots of quantity not too much quality. Its all been on live shrimp or soft plastic jigs. Ton's of keeper trout, non stop rat reds, ladyfish and a few 20-25 inch snook. There are more snook around than you would think after last winter but until the water hits that low 70 degree mark they just don't want to eat. Went and tried for some whitebait yesturday hoping I could at least live chum them into eating. Only caught a few pieces, water is still too cold.
Can't wait for spring to get here.
Capt Matt

[thennutts]

Made some progress on the boat but not enough to install the floor like I thought I would. A ton a loose ends I needed to tie up before the big step. See pics and notes below:

Had the floor in the boat where I drilled holes into the deck and into the tops of the stringers, then countersunk the screw heads. Since the core of the stringers is a composite, there is not really much grab so plugs were used. I know this is overkill but I don't want this thing to move.




Plugs used to plug holes, 5200 was used in each hole to secure the plugs, needs 7 days to dry hard, then #14 Flathead stainless will go into each hole.





I routed the backside of the deck to 5/16" and installed plates for under the tower posts to drill into. These were also 5200ed in the backside of the floor for beef. I don't trust just a large screw and 5200 into the deck. I figured if the tower wants to try to rip out of the deck, its going to need to pull out a 5" x 5" piece of 1/4" thick solid aluminum.





Double checking battery positions and placement. I am trying to keep all weight forward/ centered of the boat.





Glassed the bottom side of the deck with 1 1/2 oz mat and resin. Also, a coat of thinned resin and styrene was used to soak into marine ply for added protection. The mat was probably not needed but it makes me feel better.



Had to re plumb the rigging tubes to point inward so they would end up inside the center console, they would have missed the center console if not. Small goof on calculations on my part, but a quick fix.



Fixed the seacock and plumbing to allow straight flow into the 1600 gph baitwell pump. I could not have it straight up because it hit the floor so I did a 90 degree on it. Plenty of clearance now.



I added a few layers of 1 1/2 oz mat to the bottom of the livewell, seemed to me to be a little thin. Then I also added a 1 1/2" drain on the bottom for quick drainage. I also took the side piece off and installed a 1 1/8" inlet valve to replace the 3/4" that was originally installed so I can have straight flow 1 1/8" for maximum water. Now I don't need to reduce it at any point. The overflow tube and the drain tube will connect with a Tee barbed fitting 1 1/2" sanitation hose will be used to assure I wont be doing this ever again.









I also added a front compartment and seat to the center console to be able to get all 6 batteries under it while having plenty of dry storage under the console.



Just received yesterday the trim for motor and porta bracket turn signals that will go up on each station, so nice having this stuff at your finger tips!



Also got a 10# bag of cabosil for the floor glueing next weekend. I figured why pay 10 bucks for a 1 gallon bag when the 10# bag is only 90. This will give me plenty to work with.



Also, not pictured is, I added a triangle piece of marine ply under the front of top cap and screwed down through it. I figured I will be standing up there and need some support. This will also be supported with a piece of marine grade ply going down to make my anchor storage station up front. I also purchased hatches locally that are very nice. They are watertight, flush with deck(approx 1/4" sticks up) and the screws are totally hidden too. Will take pics next week, I forgot to this week.

Next weekend should be the big one, we shall see, did not realize there is all this little stuff to do before actually putting the deck on. Hope you all like the progress!!!!

[Capt. Bob]

Fixed the seacock and plumbing to allow straight flow into the 1600 gph baitwell pump. I could not have it straight up because it hit the floor so I did a 90 degree on it. Plenty of clearance now.

I've followed this post from its inception and you've done a great job.

I am curious though as to why you didn't bolt the seacock to the hull ?

Looking forward to the finished project.

[thennutts]

Capt Bob,

The seacock will not thread down any further, it actually needed another piece of foam under it to bolt down. I have decided to make an extra thick cabsoil, chopped glass and resin putty and fill all around the fixture. That is what they did when I got the boat and it was tough as nails. I then will use a glass bit to drill through it all and screw it down with #14 stainless pan heads with 5200. Either that or wrap it with composite, glass it and paint with bilge coat. Not sure yet, either way it will get bolted down, just haven't decided which way to go yet! Just one of those "little loose ends" i keep talking about, they never stop!  

P.S. Thanks for the support along the way!  

[RickK]

Nice work  

[Capt Matt]

Looking good. The trim switches are sweet.
I did the same with my tower mounts but glassed them under the floor. When its time to install I will mark where the holes need to be then tap and die simply screwing the tower down tight.

Just a suggestion:
Run a strainer before the baitwell pump
 All the floating grass we have in the Sound all summer will kill that sweet 1600gph pump quick.  On my flats boat I  run two whole seperate livewell systems with a Y valve. I have two strainers on two pumps on two seperate thru hulls If one quits you can just switch the Y valve over and hit the other switch without loosing any bait or having to switch the bait to the other livewell.
Capt Matt

[thennutts]

Nice work  

Thanks Rickk!

Run a strainer before the baitwell pump
All the floating grass we have in the Sound all summer will kill that sweet 1600gph pump quick.

Capt Matt.

This is where I am getting several different answers for this situation. I actually had a massive strainer and entire set up ready to install that I bought online, but the guys are marine trading post told me to ditch it because the high speed pick up acts as a strainer to weed out the larger objects and the massive oversized impeller inside this pump will eat everything else up and spit it out. I then went to marine surplus off palm beach blvd, and that guy totally agreed, said the strainer would actually clog it more and have to shut the entire system down to drain. I then went to west marine to see what they had to say and they guy told me he just took his strainer off his baitwell because it was miserable to deal with due to the tiny little mesh holes in the strainer and now he loves the set up and wont ever go back. And here we have you, who fishes for a living and spends more time on the water than probably those three guys combined saying the strainer is the way to go. I'm just straight confused. But I will say the strainer got returned along with all the parts, so I guess im going to roll with this set up and see how it goes, i may need to add a strainer like you said, guess we will have to wait and see. See how long this thing lasts until it fails, the pump does have a 3 year unconditional warranty from rule, so id be happy to get that before replacing it. Especially with the amount of hours that thing is about to see on it! Good looking out though!