1969 to 1971 (?) Aquasport 19-1 Osprey Rebuild Soon

[slvrlng]

Hey Garrett, progress is always a good thing. I have a easy trick to help with the dust. If you have a wet dry vac lay the hose end facing the grinder with it running. It doesn't get it all but it really helps! Just make sure you have the rotation of the grinder running towards the hose on the vac.

[GarrettS]

Lewis,
Thanks for the tip I have tried this and it helped a little. The commercial fan also helps blow the dust away.

Does anyone have any experience with "pourables" (like seacast of nida-core)? I think this may be a lot easier way to redo the transom than with plywood. I figure I can save both the outside and interior skin if I use these products. I figure I could build the "dam" higher to enclose the transom and then cut it down and cap it. Any thoughts? It seems like this product would be a good choice to build the reinforcement "knees" to the stringers too.

[GarrettS]

Ok. I had a little time today and got the rest of the sole out. What I discovered was that behind the splash well the transom was completely un-fiberglassed. In the bilge the transom was exposed to water!!! This seems like a very bad design. Here is an image.




Please mind the dust. It was a busy day grinding fiberglass. I had a little time so I thought I would make my own dust containment for the grinder. Here it is:





It worked pretty well but in the end I choose to jut get dusty.

I have a lot of grinding ahead of me. Tomorrow, hopefully. NOW I do have a question...My boat has an interior skin separate from the hull. Should I remove this skin and attach the new sole directly to the hull or can I attach to the skin? I am working through this in my mind and would gladly accept some advice. BTW did I mention how much I hate grinding FB. Secondly...did I mention how I wished they had used closed cell foam! Her is a dusty mess.

[GarrettS]

Someday archeologist are going to start digging in my yard and discover the "fiberglass era".  Upgraded the fan to a real blower. Had a lot of fun today grinding all the stringers. Got some more foam out too.


The transom wood.






Hope to remove the transom skin tomorrow and get the wood out

[LilRichard]

If your boat has a liner (which seems to be what you are talking about) then yes, you can glass the floor to the liner when you put it back in.

Looks good so far.

[GarrettS]

Thanks Rick,

I have been thinking about how the bulkheads between the stringers are made. I would have thought the stringers would continue (solidly) and the bulkheads (I don't know if that is exactly what they are called?) would be attached to the surface of the stringer side. Instead, the stringers are cut out on the sides where the cross bulkheads are. IMHO this weakens the rigidity of the stringer? Am I missing something? And where the controls ran they cut out the whole top of the stringer. I am considering removing these bulkheads and relocating/replacing. Also, this way I could increase the bilge area to something substantial and increase the area for the fuel tank.

Any advice?

[LilRichard]

I agree that the stringers should be continuous and the bulkheads should be tabbed in.  I see no problem with moving bulkheads around to fit your needs... especially fuel tank size.

[GarrettS]

Rick, Thanks for the advice. I thought using a foam on top of the stringers might be a good way to raise the deck height. What weight foam would you recommend? I haven't been able to get to the transom yet but have decided to use Arjay pourable. Tommy at Hammerhead said it pours a lot better than either Nidabond or Seacast. I did have some time to remove some more foam...


I would estimate that I have removed +300lbs to date.

Here is a shot of the stringers. I was really confused why AS did the stringers this way. However, once the foam is poured this could be a very rigid structure.


I will change this when I reposition the bulkheads. I will have continuous stringers.

[Skoot]

Your making some serious progress, lookin good.  Just curious, was the foam wet all the way through the stringers or just certain areas?

[GarrettS]

Skoot, Thanks for the encouragement. The foam appeared dry on the top but as I dug it out the lower half was soaked. This was the case throughout the entire stringers. I still have one more outside stringer to finish taking the foam out. I am anxious to get to a "construction" step but definitely am not going to cut corners.

Using the paint stirrer is definitely a good way to go. I sharpened the bottom "blades" and use it in reverse. The results are easily vacuumed up with the shop vac. What foam is left on the stringers can be removed with a flat bar or paint scraper.

In all there must be at least 300lbs of weight removed. I hope this will help how the boat sits in the water. I will be increasing the fuel tank to 80 gals (from 60 gals so plus 120lbs) and moving it slightly forward (and in between the stringers). This should help move the center of gravity forward and lower (more stable). The deck will be of 3/4 ply so this will also add weight.

[GarrettS]

Well, I haven't had much time to work on the project, but today I was able to get the rest of the rotten transom wood out.








And finally the pile.



Going to order some Arjay pourable transom and get to making a dam.

[LilRichard]

That looks all too familiar!!!

[GarrettS]

Rick, I can only hope my project turns out as well as yours.    

I have had a little time this weekend to get a couple of "constructive" items done. Thanks to Tommy at Hammerhead for explaining his method of building the dam in order to pour the Arjay ceramic transom compound. What is needed is a 4x8 sheet of melamine/masonite, large piece of cardboard to outline exisiting transom, 3 yards of 1708 biax, resin, tool etc...

Here how I started





Cut it out.



After the biax



Ready to build the inside front of the transom/dam for the pour.



But wait...got some holes to fill....and reinforced the corners too.



Now for the cutout of the original transom.



Wanted it to be inline with the original transom.



Bracing.



More 1708 biax.



Will let you know how it turns out tomorrow.

[GarrettS]

It turned out ok. I will have to do some grinding where I didn't get enough resin into the glass. But overall it is ok.





On a more positive note...I did get a delivery from FSI.



 

[RippinLip76]

are you using polyester resin or epoxy to lay the fiberglass?