1969 to 1971 (?) Aquasport 19-1 Osprey Rebuild Soon

[GarrettS]

I have been working on a slight problem. I bought too small a shelter (12x20x8) and needed to upgrade. I couldn't work on the boat (i.e. stand, walk around, etc...). I am really anxious to take the sole out but needed to resolve this issue. Well I found a bigger shelter on Craigslist (14x24x10) and am ordering a new main cover (it needs to last at least a year).

Transom questions: I am planning on turning this into a full flatback. Should I take out the entire core and rebuild it as one full section or just add to the top? The core seems to be in solid condition, but has delaminated from the outside skin. One thought is to use an epoxy to re-attach the core to the skin and then build on top of the transom and recap it in. My gut tells me this is NOT the way to go. Any advice?

Scuppers question: Does anyone have a good design for scuppers? I imagine I will raise the sole 1.5" and am trying to come up with a better scupper design. When I had this boat in last I remember always dealing with water coming in.

Thanks

[LilRichard]

On the shelter, mine was 8' tall, but I put 4x4 posts into the ground and attached the legs to the 4x4s about 2 ft higher than the ground...

My $0.02: Rebuild the ENTIRE transom.  Why go through all that work just to leave part of the old transom in place?  You'll thank yourself later.  Seeing all these new pourables - I might go that route.  When I did mine they were just becoming "mainstream" and I was not able to find a ton of folks using that method.  I would think about that for your rebuild...

Regarding scuppers - I have a set of 1.5" TH brand inline scuppers with 1.5" bronze thru-hulls and nice cockpit drains... if you'd like them I will give you a great deal.  I was going to use them, but ended up draining my cockpit out the sides of the hull (in front of my rear bulkhead).  Send me a PM if you want 'em.  See here:  http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... upper.html

[cboham30]

Hey lilrichard, not to steal the thread but could post a pic of how u did your drains out the side. im trying to figure stuff like that out before i start my attack on my old girl

[GarrettS]

LilRichard, I will PM you later about the scuppers. Check out this site http://www.kpbb.net/SportFisherman.html I just emailed the owner to go visit (it is near where I live). They are using "penske board" in their transoms. This boat looks a lot like a classic AS 22-2 FB.

[LilRichard]

Yup, the shear line and bow curve look very similar, but that hull has a steep deadrise, I would guess almost 20degs.  Nice looking boat - but I bet they're pricey!!!

Penske board is an option, it's another composite I know folks use, but I am not familiar with it.  I know Coosa Bluewater is good, and I have heard good things about pourable... but don't know anyone using Penske personally.  See what you think and let us know!

[GarrettS]

Ok, I had some time yesterday to start cutting out the sole. The shelter is so tight that I needed to move the boat out in order to get anything done. The boat has been in a water tight shelter for weeks and this is the plywood. I guess once the water gets in there isn't anywhere for it to go. H2O + oxygen + time= ROT.



Here she is out of her temporary home









Stringer lay out


The parts I will reuse (including fish box).




Notice how the stringers don't go all the way to the top of the main stringers. This is where I can run my rigging tubes.  Also I measured the coffin for an in deck tank and it will only hold 48 gals. The above deck SS tank that I already have holds 60 gals. So I am thinking that I will stay with the above deck tank and try and add a hatch to access the coffin. The stringers look like they were well glassed. I haven't found any separation yet. I am sure I will be adding glass.

About the interior (green part) of the hull. Should I remove this and add reinforcement? I know LilRichard did. Are there any real negatives about leaving it and building the new sole up to/on top of it? I plan on raising the deck 1.5" ??? Also, I was planning on using this to rest the new casting deck on...with support underneath too. Any comments on this idea? I just think removing this interior "skin" would amount to taking the whole cap off and rub rail etc...

Thanks for the feedback

[GarrettS]

Here is a horizontal version of the stringers




Does anyone have a good method of removing what they used to even out the tops of the stringers? The stuff is like cement.

[love2fish]

lowes carries a 1.5 or 2"  "circular" paint mixer. I think its for quarts but i use mine for mixing small amounts of grout. Anyway, if you get a small cup sized dent worked out of the foam you should be able to get that thing in there and start busting up the foam. Also, you can use a flat pry bar and hammer and bust out bigger pieces. Obviously be careful not to damage your fiberglass. Hope that helps.

[GarrettS]

Thanks, I will pick one up tomorrow. Does anyone have a good system for removing what is on TOP of the stringers? This stuff is like concrete. I think I will be stuck with a sharp chisel (one for bricks) and an estwing.

Also, Does anyone know how to remove really rusted on nuts. The Lee rodholders have two fused nuts. I am paying for someone's laziness 40 years ago (or sometime in between). Instead of SS nuts they used steel. Ugh!

It looks like I need to open up the bow to access the nuts on the back of the ring. It appears to be glassed in. Any recommendations here?
Thanks,

[LilRichard]

Here is a horizontal version of the stringers




Does anyone have a good method of removing what they used to even out the tops of the stringers? The stuff is like cement.

Try a really rough grinder disc - like a 24 grit.  Should take it right off.

[RickK]

You might consider carefully cutting out the forward bulkhead and moving it forward and glassing it back in, to get a bigger fuel tank under the sole.  It's nice to have the inside of the console free for storage, batteries, etc.

[love2fish]

I used my angle grinder with the sanding pad to get the resin ( I think thats what it was) that they used to bond the deck to the top of the stringers,, nothing but time, a good respirator,  and some cold beer in a cooler will get you though that step.

[GarrettS]

Well, the new cover for the shelter came today. If the rain subsides tomorrow I will take down the old shelter, put up the new shelter and get to business. Cutting and grinding is in my future. Depending on how long the shelter switch takes, I should be back in business by early afternoon. My wife was not too excited about the larger shelter..and the fact that it is gray! Somehow I don't appreciate the criticism. I must make a beer run early tomorrow in order to be prepared for the dusty, grueling destruction tomorrow. I can't wait!!!  

After the destruction I need to layout a plan for the rigging. I really WANT a Porta bracket, but could suffice with a jackplate. I have pretty much come to terms with moving the fuel tank to under the sole. I will move the forward bulkhead ihas n order to increase fuel capacity to +60gals. This will allow for storage under the console.

I need to decide about the interior skin... This AS 1969 has an interior skin instead of direct contact with the hull. If I want to stiffen the hull I will have to either remove the skin or cut out sections. Being a 19-1 I don't know if the added stiffening will amount to much as compared to a 22-2.  My gut tells me to strengthen the hull as much as possible. I loose a little of the classic look with the added brackets...but add a lot of strength. Also a lot of extra work. The cap definitely wouldn't support someone standing on it without the brackets. Think, think, think... any comments?

The other thing I am thinking about is the transition from the hull to the bilge under the interior skin. I haven't dissected enough to understand where the water goes if it enters through the cap/rub rail seal...but am concerned that it gets to the bilge.  I will keep you all informed and post pictures if I discover an answer to this question.

Tomorrow should be another informative day.

[love2fish]

are you plannning on enclosing the transom? if you do,,, you'll almost have to go with the porta bracket, as the jack plates don't set the motor back enough to get the full swing of your motor's trim.

[GarrettS]

love2fish,
I am planning on enclosing the transom. I really like the look and the dryness.

Well, I got the old shelter down and the new shelter up and started ripping out foam...and when I was sick of the foam I started grinding down the tops of the stringers. BTW, grinding is definitely the easiest way to remove the muck they used to seat the floor. I tried a chisel, then a sawzall, and finally 24 grit on a 4 1/2" grinder. Of course it is REALLY dusty. Respirator, fan, vacuum...beers. I need to buy a case of tyvek suits and some new cartridges for my respirator.

So far the stringers look very well attached to the hull. I can't believe how much water is in the foam. What I thought was dry is SOAKED at the bottom. The PAINT STIRRER works well to grind up the foam (best in reverse) into lit bits then is easily vacuumed out. What I found that works REALLY WELL is a DANDELION WEED PULLER TOOL.  It has a wooden handle that is about 36" and a metal prong, about 6", with a spoon like end with a V notched into it. It is strong enough to push into the foam and the long enough to lever it apart. Big chunks break off. And the metal is small enough to fit in between where the stringers meet the hull.

Now that I have a dry place to work ( and be able to walk around) things should start to pick up.