1969 to 1971 (?) Aquasport 19-1 Osprey Rebuild Soon

[GarrettS]

I am using Polyester Resin throughout the project. The original hull is all polyester so I figured...if it lasted 40+ years, should be good enough. Plus I didn't want to try to remember what was epoxy vs. poly in the future.

I got a lot done today. First thing was filling the joint between the cutout and the new fiberglass.







Then I was able to scribe the inside dam and glass it in place.



During some waiting I decided to pull the badges. My intention is to create a mold from both (taking the best from each).



I also got the knees cutout of foam (polyisocyurate?) After the dam is done I will build the knees and then glass. Next will be the transom pore with Arjay. I like construction a lot better than destruction.

[flkeysaqua]

I'm in the middle of the same project with the badges if you have any questions drop me a line there is a company out of cali that has good prices and the owner actually answers the phone also if you order the products over the phone you'll get a much better deal on shipping http://www.jgreer.com/casting-resin.htm?gclid=CPj51Jq4tpwCFQO2sgodEzyyng if I have extra material after im done I'd be more than willing to make the mold for you or ship you my leftovers it will be a week or so till im done so let me know

[GarrettS]

flkeysaqua,
Thanks for the offer. I will definitely give you a call. Post some pics to this thread when you finish your badges. I am getting very close to pouring the transom. I consider this a pretty big step so I am pretty excited.

[GarrettS]

Here is a pic of the cavity created by the inside dam and the exterior skin. This cavity will be filled with the Arjay #6011.

[LilRichard]

Looks really good, you're doing clean glasswork.

[GarrettS]

Thanks Rick. I never did any glass work before this project. I am really trying not to rush any part of this project and to think through each step/stage carefully. BTW did you ever get you hatches finished? If so, post a pic to your thread. I am thinking about building a mold for my hatches and any photos you have would be helpful. I haven't been able to find anything on the web in regards to building hatches. I would hate to have cheap looking hatches after all the effort that is going into this rebuild.

[LilRichard]

I bought hatch molds, so I cheated.  I think Shine built some hatches on his rebuild - they're not that hard... but if you can find molds, why bother you know?

[GarrettS]

I went to Shine's thread but most of the images have disappeared.  Does anyone know of a good resource for hatches? Or how to build a mold?

[GarrettS]

Well, I have been dreading making this post. I poured the transom last weekend and everything was going really well until the last pail. As I was pouring the last pail the interior wall/dam supports let go and the whole transom bulged out, on the inside and outside. I have been losing sleep over the whole situation. Besides the time spent getting the transom ready for the pour, I spent over $500 on materials. I think I have come to the acceptance that I will have to cut out the transom and start over. Basically, it really sucks. Here is what I would recommend to anyone pouring a transom.
1. Really brace the inside and outside well. Maybe use bolts through the transom with 2x12s. Put tape around them and you could probably bang them out.

2. Don't pour more than 2 pails per day. Maybe just pour one per day.

3. Make certain the boat is level before you start the pour. This stuff is liquid and self leveling.

Here are some photos.
Before the pour




Drip edge to control the pour


So far so good


Still good.


And then tragedy. This really sucked.




I think the only way to correct this is to cut out the transom and start over. I am afraid the bulge in the rear will look really bad when the transom gets painted and also that it will negatively effect the Porta bracket install. If anyone has any ideas about ways to fix this without cutting out the transom please let me know. BTW the Ajray is like concrete and the transom is VERY SOLID, just bulging.

[Capt. Bob]

You could try grinding both sides but I'm sure that's not what you want.
Assuming you cut and redo the transom, there is a thread showing the use of "transom clamps". That would have been the ticket for you.
I used the same type of clamps (form clamps) when pouring concrete beams. I'll see if I can find the thread.

[Marcq]

That sucks alright  :( what is the minimum thickness do you have right now on the transom?
Marc..

[wingtime]

Garrett,

That totally sucks.  I have been following this thread waiting to see the results of your pour.  I could feel your pain when I found this post.  I have been very impressed with your workmanship.  I'm sure you will come up with a solution.  I can tell you from the experience of the varied projects I have done in the past ranging from jeeps, cars, boats to airplanes sometimes things just go horribly wrong at no fault of your own.  Chalk it up a huge learning experience.  

In my poking around the web I saw where builders have installed greased engine mount bolts trough the transom before pouring.  This helped hold the inside and outside in place during the pour.  Once the filler hardens the waxed or greased bolts pull right out, saving from you having to drill the holes through the super tough Ajray.  This also works with drain tubes Etc.

[GarrettS]

Thanks for the words of encouragement.
Marq, I would say the minimum thickness is 2" at the base. I haven't assessed the severity of the bulge and where is worst. It appears that it is much worst towards the top. I spoke with Tommy at Hammerhead and explained the situation. He had an idea to use a skill saw (set up with jigs to keep the depth consistant) and curf as much as possible. Then use a chisel to remove the parts between the saw cuts. I haven't tried it yet, but I imagine it won't be fun trying to cut this Arjay. The other idea I had is to use my chainsaw and cut out the entire transom (to within 3" to 4" of the edge) and re-glass dams for both front and back... and pour again. Another 500.00 in materials at least w/o shipping. Ouch. I think this route would be faster and probably easier (and better result).

While really hating the fact that I screwed this up...and admitting it publically... I really want to help other people doing this type of rebuild not have the same problem. Thanks again for the sympathies. It is getting less painful each day. Ha.

Also, Tommy told me that he screws his bracing straight through the side walls (gunwales?) with sheetrock screws.

[Marcq]

Garretts, hard to say from the pictures but the exterior of the transom looks Ok, I would give the skill saw / jigs a try or does it matter if the inside of the transom is not flat since you're going with a bracket, I'm sure your transom is very solid as is
Marc..

[GarrettS]

Marcq,
The transom is VERY solid. I am thinking that I might try the "curfing" route Just to see how difficult it is. The other thought I had is to use a router with a cutting/trimming bit. I think this might fair better (no pun intended, ha) than the skill saw method. I agree about the interior not being that important because I intend on building a cap and enclosed bulkhead. The interior won't be visible...just a reminder to me. The only issue is the length on the bracket bolts...which shouldn't be that much of an issue either. I will post pics of the jig set up and the progress. Probably won't get to this until the w/e.

BTW do you have snow in Montreal yet?

Thanks,