1977 22-2 FF O/B

[billfish33]

I have a waterwitch 101 on the way !
looks pretty simple to hook up as well.
If the switch senses fuel this switch will not let the pump {Rule 2000 GPH} turn on !!

[RickK]

I only posted what happened,I'm sure they will fix this.

I'm sure he will.

So Bill, following up, you researched the rubber and found that Buna N was a very expensive rubber so you went with a less expensive version. What was the final outcome with the fuel tank - did it fit?

[billfish33]

Hi Rick !

the closed cell hard  neoprene I bought was a leftover piece in the warehouse at a rubber place in NJ.{he sold me 34'} and it was much cheaper than the Buna N and was also resistant to oil/gas.

the tank is still not in yet, I used regular 5200 to glue the rubber to the tank last Thursday,and the stuff still has not fully cured,and is still slightly tacky ?

I never used this stuff before and had no idea it took so long to cure ?,I'm looking for another product to use in the actual well when we do install it {not sure what to use} I want somthing  that cures faster and could be taken out if need be.

I have all the hoses ready to be put in,and the Motor that was sent to East Coast Outboards is being boxed up and almost ready to be shipped.

the Weather was a problem with working outside on the boat, it's still cold up here. We still need to powerwash/clean and paint the boat theres also a few small spots of glass that needs some work.

I did put the PlasTeak gunnels/rod holders in,and have 2 Seamaster 20" LED strips {Blue/White}on order and were putting them UNDER the PlasTeak Gunnels !
We put some 1/2"  Starboard in the back sides.I have a new Bilge setup ready to go in {rule 2k gold,waterwitch 101,and a rule 3 way helm switch}

This project is just coming along slowly {and I'm spending more than I wanted to... }

I plan on taking pics when the weather gets nicer ,and she starts looking better  

[billfish33]

I only posted what happened,I'm sure they will fix this.

I'm sure he will.

So Bill, following up, you researched the rubber and found that Buna N was a very expensive rubber so you went with a less expensive version. What was the final outcome with the fuel tank - did it fit?

The tank will be a tight fit but I'm sure it will work, the problem area will be where the aluminum brackets are !
the well measured 24", the tank was made 23" ,but those brackets go all the way to the bottom of the well and not only lagged to through the side into the stringers,but they are on what looks like a thick bed of cured glue of some sort.

thats why we wanted a slightly narrower tank {to be sure}.

[seabob4]

Bill,
Sorry for the delay, my Faria guy called today and will have pricing for the Gauge set tomorrow.  As you probably figured, the Antares will not support your motor.  Simply too old... :cry:

[billfish33]

Bob:

No problem, theres still lots more to be done besides the gauges  

We got off our Duff today and put in the fuel tank   , I can't believe how difficult the fill hose was to change.....
but we finally got it done !! {it was crossed with the vent hose  :x }
the only hose of the 3 we didn't change was the vent hose ?,it seemed good enough ? and we were shot after the other 2 {fill/feed}.

Thanks,
Bill

[seabob4]

When they get crossed and the combination of lack of space and the surface friction of the hoses...well, they'll kick your ass!

Been there, done that!

[billfish33]

Bob:
I'm probably going to swap that very old vent hose with my new one..
should go smooth {I hope   }
Could you imagine me getting my butt kicked twice in a week by 2 seperate rubber hoses    { }

 I have a small fuse block on order {blue-sea 5026} this will make things simple with hooking up the bilge,vhf,lights,stereo, etc.
Were having a dissagreement where to mount the 2 battery setup.
{AGM deep-cycle battey and starting battery} I'm leaning toward putting them in the cuddy well ?, I can get 30' of tinned 6awg battery cable pretty cheap , the other guys want to put the batterys in the back of the boat {one on each side} in batterty boxes.  
not sure what to do ?

[seabob4]

Bill,
The forward setup can help your fore/aft weight distribution real well, but you will need 2 GA, not 6.  We use 6 for trolling motor wiring if the batts are in the console.

If you guys go with the batts in the aft corners, you can probably get away with 4 GA.  But 6 as your motor mains?  Noooooo...not a good idea.

[billfish33]

Bill,
The forward setup can help your fore/aft weight distribution real well, but you will need 2 GA, not 6.  We use 6 for trolling motor wiring if the batts are in the console.

If you guys go with the batts in the aft corners, you can probably get away with 4 GA.  But 6 as your motor mains?  Noooooo...not a good idea.

Bob:
wow, I'm glad I asked !
I have another question !
I was planning on running 10 GA from the batteries to the small fuse block {blue-sea 5026} it's a 12 gang that can take 1-30 amp fuses.
Is 10 GA wire good to use for hooking up the fuse block {feeding the Block power} ?

I was then planning 14 GA for all the accessories to tie into the block {VHF,Stereo,Lights,Bilge,Fishfinder/gps, ETC}

Also
how would I wire up 2 batteries ? I'm assuming a battery switch,but I have no idea how to wire it up ?


Thanks again !
Bill

[seabob4]

Bill,
10 GA should do you fine for feeding the distribution block, unless you can foresee running a few high-amp loads at the same time, then I would go with 8 as your feed.  But I don't really see you having this issue.  14 GA will work for all your pump/lighting needs, except a macerator pump, which will need 10.  Trim tabs as well.

One thing you might want to do for your electronics is to provide a separate power source in the form of a hot and ground buss bar fed straight from your house battery (or battery switch "common"), then use in-line fuses to protect them.  Electronics tend to work better when they are physically and electrically "separated" from the other appliances on your boat.  I've got a couple of buss bars you can have, just a little extra wiring.

Bob

[billfish33]

were going to keep both batts in the back corners as that thick wire is too pricy.

were getting ready to install the new bilge setup, rule 2k gold,waterwitch 101,3 way lighted rule panel switch.
How are you guys fastening the actual pump to the floor of the bilge ?? the round bottom debris cover of the pump unsnaps,and there are screw holes in the bottom of that debris cover....

How thick is the bottom of the boat { },or is there a safer way to mount the pump ?

I almost forgot to ask this again,We need a new ignition switch, is there a certain one I need to get for the merc 200 2-stroke 2.5L ?,were looking for a keyed switch.

And with going the dual battery route {starting for batt #1,and deep cycle for batt#2}, what is the best way to hook them up ? a simple battery switch like the Cole Hersee M750, or an Isolator {or combination of both ?}

thanks again !!
Bill

[Marcq]

How are you guys fastening the actual pump to the floor of the bilge ?? the round bottom debris cover of the pump unsnaps,and there are screw holes in the bottom of that debris cover....

Mine is glued with 5200, wanted to have the pump at the lowest part/location of the hull, so far so good :)

Marc..

[seabob4]

Bill,
Marc has a good idea, unless you are looking at a larger, thus heavier pump like a Rule 1500 or bigger.  Just let the 5200 cure for a few days.  BTW, your hull bottom at the keel is about an 1" thick.

As far as wiring the batteries, wire the starting batt to "batt 1", the deep cycle to "batt 2", start and run with switch on both, when you shut down, turn the switch to batt 2.  When you start back up, turn the switch to "both".  Get disciplined about it, and keep your batts in good shape.  They are VERY important!

Now look at the helm end of your engine harness.  Tell me what color wires you see that terminate to the ign switch.  Should be blk, red, purple, yellow w/red stripe, gray, and one more, can't remember.

Ooops!  The 2000GPH pump.  Over looked that.  Glass in a block of coring, then secure with screws to that.

[billfish33]

Ignition:
I'll be at the boat Sunday morning to take a look under the console, we currently do not have an ignition switch.
and I'll also take a look at the # of pins on the motor side of the harness.

Bilge fastening:
what is coring ?  and would I use a glass repair kit with it ??
and how high should I make it ?

thanks Guys for all your Help !!
Bill