1977 22-2 FF O/B

[Marcq]

Ignition:
Bilge fastening:
what is coring ?  and would I use a glass repair kit with it ??
and how high should I make it ?

Coring! something you can screw into, could be a piece of marine plywood covered with a couple layers of fiberglass, the longer the screws the thicker the coring but you don't want to make it to thick because the pump wont start pumping until the water reaches the pump.
Since your hull is pretty thick there you could scew it there directly with screws long enough not to go through the hull, like 3/4" screws

Marc..

[billfish33]

one of my partners decided he woulod install the bottom to the bilge pump by screwing it down, I handed him {4} 3/4" screws,he dropped one and picked up a longer one... ....used it :x ....,and it came through a little bit @#$^  :x  :x
what are the steps for fixing this, I was thinking about unscrewing the base to the pump and squeeze 5200 in all four holes,and hope I can get the 5200 in the problem hole ? {it wasn't a thick screw but it's sticking out slightly  :x } and just try and use the glue for the base of the pump ?

Also:
I had a question about the height of the transom {where it drops down where the outboard goes}.
Is there some sort of add-on product we could put acoss the transom to prevent water from getting in {or slowing it down ?} we will most likely be buying a new motor mount next year,and maybe redo the transom if thats the way to go ??

I know I read somewhere on this site about replacing the transom with one thats level across {full transom} ? but were not sure how that would interact with the motor tilting up ?
our motor mount is pitted badly, Is there a mount for an outboard that would allow tilt with a full transom ?

Thanks,
Bill

[billfish33]

We have a few problems as of late....
We got the motor back from Eastcoast outboards from NC, there was damage from shipping. they put in an insurance claim,not sure how this works ?? but were waiting to here from a rep from the shipping Co. and ins. Co. !

Also, we found out our stern may need some additional support brackets for the motor    ,
I was told that the back wall OF the boat where the o/b bracket mounts to is not as strong as it needs to be  

are there brackets that can be added from the O/B mount over the stern and down to the deck of the boat ? to support the back wall ??

[billfish33]

some pics  {old and new}
I hope this link works

http://spark.lifepics.com/members/spark7598/8117/

[RickK]

[billfish33]

update:

we have a problem with the stern {transom} being too weak where the motor is,it's solid near the corners but as you get closer to the motor mount.....it gets weaker and weaker.
We didn't notice untill recently.  
were planning on bolting some 1/2" Aluminum plate to the back of the boat {outside}as well as the inside sandwiching the transom with the motor mount bolting to the Aluminum plate.
We feel if we can get the Aluminum bolted in the corners {where it's strong}...we shouldn't have a problem.

Also, we could use a new {or good used !} Motor mount for our 1999 200 Merc 200 HP 2.5l {2-stroke}

[RickK]

You've put so much effort into this boat, I think that instead of putting a bandaid on the transom (aluminum), use the poured method of rebuild and fix it before you put the motor on. Seacast or equivalent. http://transomrepair.com/zk/  You'll be glad you did.

[billfish33]

You've put so much effort into this boat, I think that instead of putting a bandaid on the transom (aluminum), use the poured method of rebuild and fix it before you put the motor on. Seacast or equivalent. http://transomrepair.com/zk/  You'll be glad you did.

Rick:
This stuff looks great !!
I believe I sold my partners on the product !, I never did like the Aluminum plate idea...

I'm a little leary on drilling down,chainsaw cutting out the old wood between the skin though...I'll be getting a callback from someone this afternoon to answer all my questions {not sure how much I need ?}

Thanks,
Bill

[RickK]

There are quite a few members that have done this type of transom rebuild on their boats so stay tuned and I'm sure they'll pop up to advise.  In fact SeaBob said that the Aquasports built when he worked there were all poured transoms.

[billfish33]

Rick:

I'll be ordering this product on Monday morning !,I really want to raise the height on both sides of the motor....as well as a few more inches in front of the motor,just not sure how to do it ?
With that said,And as bizarre as this might sound, my main partner in the boat, has an idea to hang "Big-Rig" Mud-flaps on each side of the outboard to prevent water from entering the back    {he's a Trucker} {I can't stand the idea} so I'd rather build up the sides of the transom {if it's even needed ?}

I sure hope whoever did this chimes in !!{We could use all the advice we can get !}

[slippery73]

Go to the nidacore website and look search for transom pour. They're pour material is much cheaper than seacast. There are also many topics about this on the forum, use the search tool and read up.

[billfish33]

Go to the nidacore website and look search for transom pour. They're pour material is much cheaper than seacast. There are also many topics about this on the forum, use the search tool and read up.[/quot
'73 :
Thanks for the Reply.
What is the better product ? , Were in NY,and still seeing 40 + degre days...,Seacast said not below 60 degrees ?????
is one easier,or better to use than the other ?

I'll give Nidacore a call on Monday !

I'm as Novice as you can get in the boating world....,But I'm learning fast  

[billfish33]

Help :I spoke with a guy named Jack Lugis about Nida-bond,he said to not use the Drill/Chainsaw method to hollow out the void,but to cut off most of the outer skin {glass},
then take out old wood,
seal off any holes,
then re-glass it in {if it's in tact},
then pour

the product is in stock at a NY Distributor ,and I was told by Jack I'd get free shipping to my home !

Also, the NY distributor told me this is not a core product   ,that I still need to add wood,that Nida bond is only a bonding agent     Is this true ???

I've been trying to get back in touch with Jack but he's not around :(

Edit
it is indeed a core product, we will most probably buy this on Wednesday morning !

also :Jack suggested we don't do the Drill/chainsaw method of getting out the old wood like Seacast suggested.
Jack said to try and cut the back fiberglass skin {trying to keep it as a single piece},then getting out the wood would be easier, however, We don't know how to fiberglass and Re-glassing in that same piece would be a problem in itself...

were probably going to Drill/chainsaw out the old wood

[billfish33]

Update:
I can't seem to convince my 2 partners to do a complete transom job with any of the poured products.
What can I say,I believe they are not thinking this through,
They believe we will run into problems,and/or take way too long to get all the wood out of the cavity.

They are talking about putting 2 brackets going from the upper motor mount bolts down to the floor with reinforcement 2x4's under the floor {using the bilge opening ?} it WILL make it stronger, but will it be enough ?

They had a buddy of theirs come to look at the transom, all he did was tap the back with a quarter   and said is
this what you had me come over for ? , this is fine, that all transomes have stress cracks    

with that said, I was also scared of trying to get 95% of the wood out of the transom in preporation for a poured product,
and making a bad mistake .I wish I had someone that could do it for some fair coin ! but it's kinda a new product.

we will have this boat in the Long Island sound out of Mamaroneck. the sound can produce rough sees,and were already talking about middle of the night fishing  

Aside from that :
I've been busy wiring the house battery fuse block{Blue seas 5026}Everything but the ignition will run through this block with the use of splash-proof back-lit 6 gang switch panel and will have it's own battery {group 31 AGM}
most of our lights are coming by the 20th ! {Led spreader light,Led anchor light,and Led nav lights}
We already have a single 20" SML Blue/White Led mounted under each gunnel !

We'll also have a small blue seas fuse block just for the ignition battery {Also group 31 AGM}.

The 2 batteries will be connected with a  BEP-716SQ100A single engine dual battery setup with auto switching as well as manual mode and dual batt starting !!

Right now,I took off the old teak from the top of the cuddy {hatch guide wood}, I need to somehow fix all the old holes
on the hatches from the old hinge locations, and replace the teak with Plasteak and mill the hatch slide track into the bottom of the plasteak !

Wish us Luck

[Marcq]

billfish, show this to your friend
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php ... ht=seacast

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php ... ht=seacast

Marc..