240 Rebuild

[JimCt]

Soon as you mentioned the snap fitting that rang a bell in my noggin... that's the pump I've got.  For my installation, will be putting an accumulator tank in the circuit to quiet things down and reduce on/off cycling.

[GoneFission]

Remember to set the pressure in the accumulator tank to the correct pressure.  Most tanks come pre-charged at 30 PSI; you will want yours between the on and off pressure - more like 50 PSI.  Also make sure the tank can handle 70 PSI working pressure - some can't.  

See ya on the water!

[JimCt]

Bet that's interesting when an over-pressurized accumulator quits...

[GoneFission]

It does not quit so much as go boom.   :!:

[JimCt]

Console panel completed by Vector Imaging:



Scott did a great job on it.  Although the panel looks dead simple, he contributed a lot of extra thought to it's functionality.  All other switches such as nav. lights, riding light, cockpit lighting plus the ign. and breakers will be located on a panel protected inside the console.

We got to talking today about some of his other laser-produced items and wandered onto the subject of the infamous badges.  Turns out he does a good business with the Mako crowd making replacements for them:



He can make AS badges too and I suspect they'd be much better than what I've been producing.  The badges he makes already have the color on the raised letters.

He's at:

Vector Imaging
Scott Cambra
153 Barnes st
Fall River Mass, 02723
(508) 730-2954
scott.cam@verizon.net

[RickK]

Looks very nice.
As for the badges - there goes our millions  :cry:
 

[JimCt]

Would rather die poor than have a badge that wasn't quite right.

[Anonymous]

Thanks for the plug Jim!

Yeah it seems that the same company that made the Mako placards also made the Aquasport ones as well...That company is no longer in business so last year a few Mako owners apporached me asking if I could replicate the originals instead of having to go with vinyl.  300 or so sets later and I have had not one complaint...Customers even tell me that Mako themselves (tracker) are reffering them to me!  Kinda cool.  In any case I am sure I can make you guys exactly what you need, and mine wil have the 3M 467MP adhesive covering 100% of the backs so they are very easy to install, just peel and stick.  The material I use is basically the grandchild of the original the difference is it's UV stability...

Thanks again.

Scott
Vector Imaging

[JimCt]

Filled obsolete console openings yesterday:



Final fairing of fwd deck and other areas.  Mixed blue pigment into the fairing mix for better visualization of fairing thickness:






General view of hull to cap bolt fasteners.  About 20% had to be replaced and probably 90% were rattle-loose.  Fasteners used are 10-24 x 1 1/4 truss head:

[LilRichard]

Jim- did you rabbit the plugs that went into your console like Wart did on his rig?  

I agree with using the blue fairing compound... makes it much easier to gauge the depth.  I fould a blue cream hardner that I have been using with mine.

[JimCt]

Small rabbit on the plugs then set in thickened resin followed by fairing mix.

[JimCt]

Last couple of days have been sanding, sanding, sanding with 220 grit on the random orbital.  Have the foredeck done and am working my way aft hitting all the flat areas.  All inside & outside corners get hand sanded since a power sander will leave flat spots regardless how fine the paper is and careful you are.  Been waiting for the Ryobi random orbital to start screaming with all the glass dust thats been through it but I just keeps buzzing along.  Testament to good bearing seals.

[damnitbadger]

I like the gauge panel. Very clean looking. What primer and finish coat will you be using?

[JimCt]

Panel is simple because I'm not a fan of needless clutter.  Only what needs to be there is there.  The ignition switch and all the other switches & breakers will be protected inside the console.

Paintwork has been discussed extensively with Jamestown Distributors. The topsides & bottom will have Interlux Interprotect followed by Perfection.  Interior will be Brightside single-part urethane.  Reason for using the single-part is that the interior had been previously painted with a single part enamel.  Two-part paints are incompatible over this substrate.  Although I've been doing a lot of sanding & fairing, there are still remnants of the old paint in several areas.  Sanding all the old paint off is not practical since it is white on white; very difficult to see.

[Bayside Marine Services]

Hi Jim,

Finally have posted pictures of my 240 and 222 projects on the website.

Just a thought, the owner of the 240 aquasport was a fan of courtesey lighting so I extended this into both the bilge compartment and inside the consol. This makes life so much easier when the sun goes down should you need to check those breakers or any other system for that matter - I will make a point of installing them on all my future projects !!

Will