240 Rebuild

[JimCt]

Sub-panel came in:





Just reading the instructions tells where it was made...

[RickK]

Definitely.

[JimCt]

Think I've finally figured out how to prep. the transom to meet Mercruiser's I/O mounting specs.  As mentioned a while ago, their requirement is that where the drive mounts, the transom must be 2" to 2 1/4" thick and the inner and outer transom surfaces be parallel within 1/8"  8" either side of the centerline of the outdrive.  Planned procedure is to grind the outside of the transom down to 1/8" below flush between two vertical lines drawn 9" either side of the centerline...  which I have just completed:





A straight-edge held horizontally spanning the area contacts the hull only at the edges where the grinding ends.  Next will be to apply two layers of double bias stitch-mat to the area set in thickened epoxy.  While still wet, an 18 1/2" x 27" piece of 1" ply with release material on it will be screwed down over the area to establish a flat plane spanning the area.  When cured and the ply is removed, the area will then be flat and perpendicular to the fore & aft plane of the hull.

From there I have to establish a parallel matching plane on the inside of the transom which, according to plan, should be easy.  Process will be to drill four 1" holes at each corner of the the outside transom flat area perpendicular to the flat area.  Into those holes will be inserted and bonded four 1" maple dowels 2 1/8" long.  viewed from the outboard side of the transom the ends of the dowels will be flush to the plane.  These reference dowels will be used to transmit the established parallel plane and required transom thickness to the inside of the transom. Standing inside the boat looking at the transom the ends of the dowels will indicate the plane to match.  The inside plane will be created the same was the outside plane was; by grinding the area to below the level of the reference dowels then laying in glass & epoxy then screwing down the plywood molding plate so that it's four corners contact the four dowels.  When cured, off comes the plywood mold plate and the transom planes & thickness will be within Mercruiser spec.

From that point the keyhole will be cut for the out-drive and the area tidied up for the engine installation.

[JimCt]

Got some sanding done on the foredeck this P.M. in prep. for the first coat of fairing mix.  Still has some slight springiness to it because the structure was designed too lightly up there, so I'll glass in a deck beam under it.

[JimCt]

This afternoon applied the first fairing coat to the foredeck:

[GoneFission]

Jim:

Did you see Saabmarine's 240 pics posted over on the Classified section?  

http://www.classicaquasport.com/forum/v ... 2745#12745

A '76 side console 240 with twin outboards...

[JimCt]

Thanks for the head's-up GF... I missed those.  Will get in touch with him for more pictures.

[JimCt]

Back at the 240 after a little break.  Made the mistake of not adding wax to the polyester fairing putty I made up for the foredeck so I gummed-up a couple of disks before it dawned on me what the problem was.  Mixed up a batch of waxed resin and overcoated the fairing putty so we'll see if that helps with the sanding.

[JimCt]

Got a couple of hours in sanding the foredeck repaired areas to just below flush.  Next will be a final coat of micro-balloon'ed resin for final fairing.  Next  I'll get that deck beam for the added foredeck support fabricated and installed.  Should take the bounce out of the deck for once and for all.

[JimCt]

Today cut  & installed the new deck beam for the forward deck:





Secured it with stainless screws followed by 1808 glass.  Wherever there was a small space between the deck and the top of the beam I forced in thickened resin.  Before I glassed, I did a few test jumps on the deck.  Solid as a rock now, as it should be.

Spent a couple of hours sanding fair the filler in the innumerable dings and old screw holes.  Made another discovery... always add wax to filler.  It makes for a harder surface which is better for sanding.

Tomorrow I have to mow (been raining and the grass has shot up) and do some other projects.  Plan to get started early so possibly I'll be able to get a couple more layers of glass on the deck beam and maybe do something on the 222 as well.

[JimCt]

Got half of the rubrail pulled off today:



  No way to save it... it was hard as a rock and when I pulled the insert I realized it was shot.  Any suggestions for replacement rail?

[RickK]

Ok, I give up!!!  I could swear I remember reading that you bought a wash-down pump but I can't find it in any of the 33 pages here.  I found the posts about different types.  Am I imagining things?  Have you bought one yet?
I bought a FLOJET 4406 for fresh water and was thinking of buying another for raw water washdown.  All I have now is a 700gph rule pump for the wash down - works but no real pressure.  Was going to check the thru hull and see if it is nylon.  If it is, I'll have to "pop" it out and put in a new bronze one with seacock, rig a strainer and then the 4406.

[warthog5]

Buy a Jabsco Par Max. They have a MUCH better track record.

[JimCt]

Can't recall the manufacturer offhand but the one I bought is 70 PSI at 5 GPM.  Will check my parts "inventory" and get you the make.

[GoneFission]

Johnson Pumps - 5.5 GPM and 70 PSI.  Only issue is they use a unique snap-lock fitting, not a standard 1/2" NPT.  Great pump and not overly expensive.