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Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes
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1973 196 rebuild question
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Topic: 1973 196 rebuild question (Read 7467 times)
July 23, 2024, 08:21:08 PM
Reply #240
Duffy1470
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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
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Reply #240 on:
July 23, 2024, 08:21:08 PM »
Will clean the ends up and glass to the hull over the keel after I cut out to fit the cross stringer. Then the cross stringer will go over the tube and it will all be glassed in. Don't know how I turned that Pic upside down and don't know how to fix it. My apologies. Have a great evening all.
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July 24, 2024, 05:49:39 AM
Reply #241
RickK
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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
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Reply #241 on:
July 24, 2024, 05:49:39 AM »
I tried to fix the picture and can't - not sure what is going on. EDIT: Now it seems to be ok
Is the tube going to be a support for the fuel tank or fuel tank cradle? Just trying to figure out why so big.
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Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)
1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha
July 24, 2024, 08:10:39 AM
Reply #242
Duffy1470
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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
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Reply #242 on:
July 24, 2024, 08:10:39 AM »
Tube will be cut down some. it was mainly built so large to span the keel and because I stupidity built that rectangular keel span. Don't know what I was thinking when I cut that shape into my glass.
In the corners where the stringers meet there is that gap, aboutan inch. . In my mind I was just going to put 3 layers of 1708 right over it. Do I need to do thickened resin first? I need to mix up some thick res for bow eye anyway. Thoughts would be appreciated.
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July 24, 2024, 10:29:52 AM
Reply #243
RickK
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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
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Reply #243 on:
July 24, 2024, 10:29:52 AM »
You can take the bulkhead out of the boat, cut the tube down as desired, use the new cut down tube to trace it's outline onto the bottom of the bulkhead (where the rectangular one is/are), cut along the trace and glue the tube into the cutout using thickened resin. I would cut the tube off flush with the ends of the bulkhead and seal it up with resin if needed. To install the bulkhead into the spot needed, you can tack it in with thickened resin all around. It would be best to run fillets of resin along the edges of the bulkhead to make it easy for 1708 to roll between the angles involved. Finally, use 2 overlapping pieces of 1708 to glass the bulkheads in the position desired. That will make the connection stout.
Hope that makes sense.
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Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)
1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha
July 24, 2024, 02:43:49 PM
Reply #244
Duffy1470
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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
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Reply #244 on:
July 24, 2024, 02:43:49 PM »
It does make sense and thank you. As an aside, I peeled all the old resin and random fibers off my wet out table and it makes a pliable skin. I am thinking about using the "skin" in lieu of thickened resin. Probably won't use it because it has a lot of junk, dead bugs and God knows what else in it, but it is an interesting concept. It's really pliable. If i purposely went about making "skin" that would be useful. Peeling it made me think of peeling sunburned skin, thus the skin designation. Thought I would infect your brain with that crazy thought.
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July 24, 2024, 02:53:01 PM
Reply #245
Duffy1470
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247
Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
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Reply #245 on:
July 24, 2024, 02:53:01 PM »
Another question. After bulkhead do I install control and wire runs then gas tank or the opposite, tank then runs? I assume foam stringers after that then build stringers higher with Coosa or fence posts.
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July 24, 2024, 03:14:15 PM
Reply #246
RickK
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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
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Reply #246 on:
July 24, 2024, 03:14:15 PM »
I would dry fit the tank and make sure it fits ok. Are you planning on a forward bulkhead?
Are you going to use the trough coming up the starboard side? The troughs are good for routing just about everything from the aft to the console. One bummer about the trough is it get pretty funky in there after a few years. The trough was designed to give you a way to route wires and cables above the bilge yet under a cover. The original boats were designed to keep water out of the bilge and the trough was part of this system.
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Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)
1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha
July 25, 2024, 07:58:25 AM
Reply #247
Duffy1470
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247
Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
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Reply #247 on:
July 25, 2024, 07:58:25 AM »
I was planning on putting pvc pipe through where the trough is to the stern corner where I would have cabinet in the back like your build. I was only planning that instead of the trough because the trough was part of the deck draining system and I cannot abide putting wires in a drain. Also I cannot imagine how to build it, so there's that. I am having a tank made at a place called bmc metal works in columbia tn (south of Nashville). Haven't received a quote yet. When I do will post info on site for future reference
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July 25, 2024, 01:32:32 PM
Reply #248
Duffy1470
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247
Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
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Reply #248 on:
July 25, 2024, 01:32:32 PM »
Got sucked int another project. Son going back to school and we are putting a front deck on his jon boat. Replaced an 11 foot whaler with the jon boat. Anyone want to buy an 11 foot whaler. It's in columbia tn but I can get it to orange Beach al if need be.
Got the tube cut height wise will trim the front so it does not protrude into the fuel coffin area. Thinking I will leave an inch or less in the bilge area to provide more area to glass to.
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July 25, 2024, 04:24:10 PM
Reply #249
Duffy1470
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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
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Reply #249 on:
July 25, 2024, 04:24:10 PM »
Glassed in bow eye with 2 layers 1708. One bigger than the other. Also glassed in the tube but did not get a pic of that. Tabbed in front of bulkhead. Good day. May get some more here in a minute.
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July 25, 2024, 04:25:13 PM
Reply #250
Duffy1470
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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
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Reply #250 on:
July 25, 2024, 04:25:13 PM »
Copied wrong link
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July 25, 2024, 04:26:01 PM
Reply #251
Duffy1470
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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
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Reply #251 on:
July 25, 2024, 04:26:01 PM »
Probably need another layer 1708 for bow eye?
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July 25, 2024, 08:17:32 PM
Reply #252
RickK
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Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
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Reply #252 on:
July 25, 2024, 08:17:32 PM »
You could add another layer but I would make it wide enough to extend past the edge of the coring by maybe 1.5-2" only. Maybe a 4" wide piece of tape would do it. Looks good though.
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Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)
1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha
July 26, 2024, 08:20:50 AM
Reply #253
Duffy1470
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247
Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
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Reply #253 on:
July 26, 2024, 08:20:50 AM »
Thank you Rickk . Glassed the bulkhead corners last night . Will get some pics.
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July 26, 2024, 02:58:44 PM
Reply #254
Duffy1470
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247
Re: 1973 196 rebuild question
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Reply #254 on:
July 26, 2024, 02:58:44 PM »
I noticed the fuel tank coffin in most of the builds appear to be fully enclosed. Why is that or did I see it wrong? Some of the posts indicate they put a drain plug in. When I tore this boat down, the tank was just laying in the bottom with a bunch of foam poured all over it, so i don't have anything to copy. I get the idea of keeping the tank away from moisture and abrasion but do not understand enclosing the fuel coffin from other parts of the boat specifically the rear bilge.. Seems if fuel gets in the coffin it is arguably the same danger as any where else under the deck. Any insight or is that just the way it's done which is fine too?
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Classic AquaSport
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Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes
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/
196 Rebuilds
/
1973 196 rebuild question
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