1973 196 rebuild question

[Duffy1470]

Is the liner bonded to the hull side on early 70s 19-6? Also, is it tabbed to the floor? Just started a project. Already itchy.

[dbiscayne]

My '71 liner was only attached at the top by the rub rail screws, it stops just short of the cap. At the bottom it's a continuous part of the deck/glassed.
Just a small 1/4" at most gap between the liner and hull side. Seems they had a mold for the liner and deck when constructed.

[umecheme]

My 19-1 liner was attached at the top with bonding putty.... for like the top 4"... it was a mess to take out, destroyed the liner.

[Duffy1470]

Thank you so much for your response.  unbolted the cap (flat head screws/bolts are the worst).  My plan is to throw away the liner or at least not put it back in.  I assume it was not structural?  Is that ya'lls understanding?

Other than Coosa or similarly priced materials or plywood, what other decking materials work.

Thanks in advance. 

[Ulysses485]

Flathead screws are indeed the absolute worst! There are few different ways to rebuild these hulls to make them last as long as they did. What you have to ask yourself first is what type of finish do you want and what your intent is with the rebuild. If your looking for a nice finish inside, the liner will make it much easier not to have to fair/finish the inside of the hull after you tie the deck into it. However, when you cut the deck out and try to leave the liner, you'll want to tie the deck to the hullside to keep some structure. This will leave you with a liner that has to be re tabbed into the deck  so it has to be trimmed (assuming the deck is thicker or at least will be raised). The last option that I don't believe you see often is removing the liner as one piece (hoping it doesn't crumble)..and recoring it filliped upside down with divinycel, coosa, or other composite materials Check out my flatback thread and you will see what I mean. There are a LOT of rebuild threads on here to look over and many proper rebuilds to follow. Share some pics and it will really help with guiding in the process and perspective to answer any questions you may have.

[umecheme]

I'm rebuilding without the liner, but the hull sides do not have a ton of stability without the liner.  I put a layer of 1708 over the entire inside of the hull and that really stiffened things up, but now am obviously having to fair and sand everything to make it look nice again.

[Duffy1470]

Posting pics is next.until then, thanks for the input. I was going to finish more commercial grade so liner is out. I just wanted to be sure it wasn't going tol fold like a cheap suit. Looked at your build. Very helpful and will probably add a layer of 1708 as suggested or at least some ribs.  Thanks

[Duffy1470]

I posted a picture but have not managed to get it on the post. Working on it.

[RickK]

Duffy, when you upload your pics, upload them into your member gallery. The "Rebuilds in process" was a good idea but once your pics are there you have to hunt for them. They are not grouped together, just appear when you upload them. If someone else uploads their pics are mixed with yours.
I moved the pic you uploaded, into your member gallery. When in your member gallery there is no struggle to find them.

As for posting the pic, you've already done the hard part. Look through this tutorial and start from #8 to post to your topic. http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=12725.0

[Duffy1470]

Thanks Rick. I will give that a shot.

[Duffy1470]

Rick, I am having Pic issues. Do you want to discuss via email?

[dbiscayne]

Other than Coosa or similarly priced materials or plywood, what other decking materials work.

I've had good luck with Nida Core (Plascore) using it for deck core, used 5/8" and 3/4" but it has its drawbacks.
Two versions available, with a scrim and without. Just a thin covering on the surface to help attach fiberglass. Get the scrim.
My layup for each side was a light coat of resin onto the scrim, then 1 layer 1708, and 1 layer of woven 12 oz., all wet on wet. Panels are reasonably light & stiff as long as you're not having to span a long distance without supports, 2 foot x 4 foot area was no problem.
The edges are the most work. If you've got an opening for a hatch and need to fill the sides of the honeycomb it takes some time but not a deal breaker. You also can't put a screw into it without prep, filling in the honeycombs, I added Divinicell as a backer where I knew I'd have screws.
It's cheaper than structural foam core.

[RickK]

Rick, I am having Pic issues. Do you want to discuss via email?

We can - rickk@classicaquasport.com

[Duffy1470]

The outside joint of both stringers delaminated 1/4 to a 1/3 of the way towards the bow.  Do I have any worries of the hull twisting, etc.?  Also, I assume the order of rebuild is:
1. pull deck
2. pull cap
3. remove old transom from inside
4. redo stringers to keep hull form true
5. redo transom
6. attach stringers to transom

Thanks for everything All...... Duffy1470

[Duffy1470]