Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild

[johnnyred_1999]

It's a badly pained blue. There was a chip where the transom meets the sides and I ground that out and filled it with epoxy and filler, sanded it and it's not going anywhere, bit I don't want to touch up the blue I want to get rid of the blue and paint it white. Did you have your hull blasted along with your bottom? I shrink wrapped it about two weeks ago, just in time for the cold weather, Sad day :(

[Fletch170]

I only had the bottom blasted, and I would suggest you doing the same. You have two real options, either media blast the hull sides and spend countless hours applying high build primers and sanding to get the finish smooth again, OR, spend a few hours with an orbital sander. Assuming the prior paint job isn't FALLING OFF, most guys here simply sand off bad areas, prime and paint. But.....keep in mind, I have no idea what the hell I'm talking about

[johnnyred_1999]

Fletch, Thanks I have seen boats that have had their bottoms media blasted and they look great. I have a random orbital sander and the paint is in decent shape I guess I could sand it off, but that may take awhile, however it doesn't need to be 80 degrees to sand either. I have seen boats that are Awlgriped roll and tip and they look great! I think they do a little wet sanding after. Will let you know if I get adventurous.

[gran398]

Guys,

We soda blasted to remove the bottom paint. Quote was $250 bucks, they come to you. They show up, start crying, want it up higher...two hours later, they leave, present a bill for $450....the bottom paint tint was still visible in spots.

My builder said never again. He'd rather ride herd on a kid with an orbital lying on his back at ten bucks an hour.

[johnnyred_1999]

Gran,

Quoting you $250 and giving you a bill for $450 shows that they absolutely don't know how to quote a job, and also that is just outrageous!!!  Sounds like they were thieves more than a legit business. They will certainly not get any referral business for that.

[Fletch170]

HOLY CRAP! I'M BACK!!!!!!!!!!

That's right guys and gals, after 5 months off, work has continued on my 170.

Spent the winter working on my home, finishing projects, and getting ready to BE A FATHER. Yep, little boy on the way this summer. With that being said, I need to get this boat finished before little man comes along.

I have a few questions for everyone:

1. Check out the link to the blog below, there is a picture of the wiring off the key switch that shows a 10 GA Red wire. This red wire has a splitter on the end. One lead goes to the gauges, What else would run off the split. As of right now there is nothing. IS this intended to be an Aux power supply that will be active only when the engine is running? If I understand it, everything on the engine system gets it's power from the motor, correct?

http://fletch170.blogspot.com/

2. From my fuel tank, I have 2 grounds and one lead from the sender. The lead goes to what color wire on the gauges? This is a 1997 115 2 stroke Yamaha. I'm scared sh*tless of wiring this incorrectly. If anyone has tribal knowledge of Yamaha wiring, please let me know.

[Fletch170]

I think I figured out the question in regards to the fuel sender. Looks like there is a black wire and a white wire going off the speedo. The black gets grounded to the tank, and the white would be connected to the wire from the sender (should be pink, mine is red).

Sound right?

http://www.mbcboats.com/perfbull/Yamaha ... nstall.pdf

[dburr]

Yes that does sound correct from the 2002 yam rigging guide, I was in the same position last spring, black was ground and the only way I could figure out the sender wire was with an ohm meter it had faded so badly and somewhere between the harness and tank the sender wire became red..

[gran398]

Fletch...looking forward to....the baby pics!!

Congrats young man

[Fletch170]

Hey Guys.

I think I have this sorted. It's just nerve racking for me, as this is the first time I've rigged a boat from scratch. I've taken a lot of time researching the proper way to do things, and have made some seasoned guys here on the forum roll their eyes I'm sure. Just the thought of running electrical current to a fuel tank is a unnatural thing in my opinion.

I think when this thing is all said and done, I'm going to take a few hours and draw a detailed wiring diagram for my boat, so, in the event I sell her to get a bigger boat (would love to have a 22-2), the next owner has a clue as to the the hell is going under the console and deck.

AS far as the red wire off the ignition switch with the additional port.....looks like it's just an aux port.

I hope to have this thing completely wired this weekend.

[johnnyred_1999]

Fletch,

Make sure that the Fuel Fill is grounded as well, That other red wire off the ignition may be for the emergency cut off.
I would have to check the manual to see what it is for. It may also be for power to the tach.

Welcome back. My 17 is still shrink wrapped, as it was 28 degrees here in NY this am. May unwrap it this weekend.

Congratulations on becoming a father! Get as much sleep now as you can!!!!!

[Fletch170]

Crap.....I didn't ground the fill.

Is this essential?

[Capt. Bob]

Crap.....I didn't ground the fill.

Is this essential?

Not if you're 100% positive (pun intended) that a static electrical charge will never jump between the fill pipe and the gas pump nozzle.

Better safe than sorry (or gone).

Good luck.

[Fletch170]

Crap. This should be easy. @&#$%!@

 :bom:

[dburr]

Why could you not run a piece of bare copper bonding wire INSIDE the fuel hose, fastened on the fill where the cap chain goes, then down to the tank  and sandwich it between the hose and the tank bib?  Just a though.