Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild

[Fletch170]

Curious,

I do have one of them, but you are correct, it will not fit. I am looking to see of there is one that fits my Dewalt impact driver, or perhaps my pneumatic impact gun.

I build old motorcycles as a hobby, and I've truthfully had any luck with the hammer drive. It seems to bugger up the head more than get it loose! Regardless, I appreciate the help and input. You guys are all terrific, and I'd really be up s*its creek if I didn't have the advice from this forum. I'd likely be over on the hull truth getting eaten alive.

-Christian

[Capt. Bob]

I'd likely be over on the hull truth getting eaten alive.Christian

Well we do that very well over here too, or so I've been told.

[louiefl]

I was checking out the photos on your blog and the thing that got to me was the use of the terminal strips with all the short jumpers. If any one of those jumpers has a bad crimp, it will kill everything downstream from that point. I'm wondering if the devices are all daisy chained together and one bad upstream ground is killing them.

On the picture with all the grounds you have 2 terminal strips and one ground block. What I would do is get another ground block and ditch the two terminal strips. One large ground goes to the big lug and then all the branch grounds go to the smaller screws. Or in the short term, you can put two lugs under a single screw and just use the block. Terminal strips are made to purposely isolate adjacent circuits.

edit: I count 6 or 7 individual grounds - they could easily fit on the ground bus block. Ditch the terminal strips and all those jumpers. I would also do the same for +12v - lose the terminal strip and connect everything to the +12v buss bar. It also looks like you have both +12v and grounds on the lower right terminal strip - mixing them up could cause some headaches. I assume that there are crcuit breakers daisy chained into your console switch panel. Double check the downstream of the breakers to make sure you have +12v and nothing was tripped.

[Fletch170]

I was checking out the photos on your blog and the thing that got to me was the use of the terminal strips with all the short jumpers. If any one of those jumpers has a bad crimp, it will kill everything downstream from that point. I'm wondering if the devices are all daisy chained together and one bad upstream ground is killing them.

-------Only the lighting is daisy chained together, and all that stuff works fine.

On the picture with all the grounds you have 2 terminal strips and one ground block. What I would do is get another ground block and ditch the two terminal strips. One large ground goes to the big lug and then all the branch grounds go to the smaller screws. Or in the short term, you can put two lugs under a single screw and just use the block. Terminal strips are made to purposely isolate adjacent circuits.

--------Already did that actually, just bought one larger bus for grounds.

edit: I count 6 or 7 individual grounds - they could easily fit on the ground bus block. Ditch the terminal strips and all those jumpers. I would also do the same for +12v - lose the terminal strip and connect everything to the +12v buss bar. It also looks like you have both +12v and grounds on the lower right terminal strip - mixing them up could cause some headaches. I assume that there are crcuit breakers daisy chained into your console switch panel. Double check the downstream of the breakers to make sure you have +12v and nothing was tripped.

I am thinking of wiring the electronics directly to the main positive and main negative bus terminals (With an inline fuse). As recommended by someone else, I will run the non fused items such as lights to the fuse/switch panel.  Good advice all around! As far as the switch-ups you are picking up on some of my prior follies, which I have since corrected.

All downstream fuses are good, I replaced them just in case. Same result.

[Fletch170]

Check it out guys!

Need to install hinges and small hardware, but shes almost done! Bottom paint this week and she's ready for the water.

http://fletch170.blogspot.com/

To wrap up a few issues:

1. the stereo was dead.
2. The VHF had a bad lead. Corrected, works like a charm.
3. Got the valve release to turn, simply with a bigger screwdriver. Put the motor down, then she went up on her own power. However, I think the system is low, I will be topping off the system this week.
4. Replaced the rulemate 500 with a 800 GPH pump with a stand alone switch. All is well.

Two remaining things to render.

1. Ground the fuel fill. Still working out how to do this.....
2. Verify the oil pump is working correctly.

Feels good guys! Almost there! I cant wait to splash this $8000 beer cooler.

[RickK]

Looking good Fletch  

[johnnyred_1999]

Fletch,

The lights look awesome!!! So does the whole boat!!! It may be a few degrees warmer in your neck of the woods, but it can still be cold here in NY. Boat is still shrink wrapped, but it is really good to see you are at thew finish line.

You going to do a Windshield on the console? I made my own from Home Depot plexiglass. Cut it with a Roto Zip and heated the plexiglass with a heat gun and bent it over a jig. Took a few pieces of plexiglass before I got it right, but it is cheap and comes out great.


John

[Fletch170]

Hey!

I don't think I'm going to bother with a windshield. The console is too low, and I'm too tall for it to work. At speed, it would likely deflect more bugs into my mouth.

If I should change my mind, there is a great place that does windshields in Jersey that does great work for cheap. I had thoughts of doing a white mini windshield to keep spray off the gauges. We'll see. Those little projects will be down the line, along with trim tabs, etc.

[johnnyred_1999]

Fletch,

Understood, I have a cooler seat so when I sit down the windshield stops the wind and bugs. Who's the company in NJ who makes the windshields?

Boat looks Awesome!!!!

[Fletch170]

I have the leaning post, so I'll be dragging down powerlines by my neck....not sure if the windshield will do much. (I'm 6'1)

I was mistaken, the company is out of Florida:

http://www.updplastics.com/aquasport%201970%2017ft.htm

160 bucks seems reasonable, which includes rubber mounts and hardware.

Anyone know of another company that does similar work?

There are some REALLY low bridges in NJ to get back in some skinny water fishing holes, so I think I'd put a 12" one on for looks, and to keep the spray off the GPS/ DEPTH Finder.

ALSO, Anyone have any recommendations for a cooler? I'd like a Yeti, but they cost more than my boat does. I need to keep the beer...uha......fish cold. The Igloo's hinges always break......

[kraw2]

Looks great Fletch..!! It's about time...

I haven't been on the forum for a while. The Yellow 170 I restored is still sitting, covered up. It's not even finished breaking in..!! Too many boats and not enough time..

[Fletch170]

Kraw,

My man, how have you been? I'd love to see some action shots of the 170 when you get it uncovered! There really isn't that many videos or pictures underway of the 17 out there. I know the thing will likely pound my fillings out, but I'm curious to see how bad this thing is going to porpoise without tabs....

Anyone with decent 17 pictures underway, feel free to share!

-Christian

[johnnyred_1999]

Fletch,

Did you ground the fuel fill yet, I may have an idea.

John

[Fletch170]

I'm going to through bolt the fill, then attach the ground wire to the backside of one of the bolts. Cool?

[Blue Agave]

I'm going to through bolt the fill, then attach the ground wire to the backside of one of the bolts. Cool?