Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild

[kraw2]

Crap.......I was hoping to use the 2ga battery cable to connect the switch to the bus terminal.

Thats overkill on the #2 wire feeding the positive buss. I guess you did that b/c you had extra..?? #10 is all you need to handle all the accessories.

SO, you are suggesting that I use 10ga wire from the battery switch, with a 30a inline fuse right next to the switch. From there I will run the 10 Gage right to the fuse/ switch pannel? The only thing hot wired directly to the battery would be the "Auto" position to the bilge pump?

Let me play Devil's advocate here:

Assuming I'm running 2ga battery cable to a bus terminal, what is preventing me from putting the fuse inline near the bus on the way to the switch pannel? There is no way the acessories could burn up a 2ga wire or a bus, right?

You are right. No way you could overload the #2 cable. It's just not "common practise". You could put an inline fuse holder on the wire feeding the fuse panel. #12 wire is plenty.

Also, the feed into the fuse pannel/ switch pannel is 14ga, and will only accept that size. So, wouldn't fusing 10ga with 14 just negate the 10 all together as that small section of 14 is still under load?

You can crimp #10 wire to #12 wire with a butt crimp. It's done all the time in some situations. But in your situation with the feed wire being so short #12 is plenty.

Fletch,

Justy go back and look at some of Seabob's and my wiring on the 170 console. The way you are wiring this boat is "not common" and you more than likely did it this way to save on money b/c you already had all those terminal blocks and buss's. What you are doing will work. Just make sure everywire is fused within 7" of the power source. Either from the battery, battery switch, or positive buss. I would also recommend a cover for the positive buss.

You have a switch panel with internal fuse's or breaker's so you only need a fused hot wire to feed that switch panel. Each switch on your switch panel can handle a maximum of 15 amps. Maybe less depending on the manufacturer.

Personally I wouldn't power the accessory power outlet thru a switch. Use a seperate fused hot wire from the positive buss.

Make sure you post more pics when you get her in the water..!

[CaptSteveBetz]

As Kraw suggested you may want to get one of these.

http://bluesea.com/category/81/21/productline/126

I used one when I did my rebuild and it really helped simplify the wiring process.

From looking at your picture to me it looks like you have power source wires and grounds all connected to the same bar. That wont work.

[Fletch170]

Kraw,

Thanks man! I will not be running the aux off a switch, this will have it's own 10ga wire with a 30 amp fuse. To answer your question, I had a lot of this cable laying around...I ordered too much for what I needed. SO, that os why there is a #2 power feed and negative terminal feed.

Capt steve, what you are looking at is the feed for the courtsey lights. Every other terminal is positive and negative, through jumping.

[seabob4]

Keep in mind, there is ABSOLUTELY nothing wrong with using larger gauge cable/wire than what is called for.  In the electrical world, the bigger the wire, the better.  Not very cost effective, but if it's what you got, run with it!!!

Just to clarify some things.  As far as load ratings of switches, most toggles and rockers (Conturas come to mind) are rated at 25 amps, so frying a switch, unless there is a direct short on it, is pretty much not gonna happen. Now, as far as fusing/breakering, builders try to follow ABYC standards as best they can.  The main feed to the panel must be circuit protected (fuse/breaker) within 7" of the source of power (either the batt or a batt switch), unless it is encased in sheathing (electrical tape counts as sheathing), in which case the circuit protection maybe up to 40" from the source of power.  Kraw already pointed out the 7" rule, but a lot of people don't know about the 40" rule.

ABYC Section E-11, although boring as all hell, tells a boat owner everything he/she has to do in order to have their boat wired "to code" (ABYC is the closest thing we have to a code in the marine world).  I used to know this thing like the back of my hand!  https://www.abyc.com/committees/E-11.pdf

[Fletch170]

So then, as you are the equivalent to a boat wiring Jesus, is what I'm doing OK? Running 2 feet of 2GA to bus, then 14 ga fused (Close to the bus), to the pannel? Or should I really consider something different. I just dont wanna be a mile off punching my own head to put the flames out, wishing I did something different.

[seabob4]

So then, as you are the equivalent to a boat wiring Jesus, is what I'm doing OK? Running 2 feet of 2GA to bus, then 14 ga fused (Close to the bus), to the pannel? Or should I really consider something different. I just dont wanna be a mile off punching my own head to put the flames out, wishing I did something different.

Christian, you funny man!

You're fine, but I always feed panels with 10GA...always.  I also don't throw an in-line fuse in there, I use Bussman surface mount breakers, 40A, like this one...



Actually, that one shown is a panel mount, but you get my drift...

[kraw2]

Thanks Seabob for the info on the sheathing. I did run all my wiring thru a fire rated plastic sheathing under the gunwales for the Nav and LED lights. Also the wiring from the console to the engine thru the rigging tray. Exiting the rigging tray I used the flexible sheathing to cover everything to the motor.

 It made everything much cleaner and easier to mount.

Fletch used what he had on hand to save money and what he did will definatly work it was just a little "different".

Another note; I'll be 58 in week or so and I'm looking for another winter project boat..!!

Thanks for all of your help on this and other forums..!!

Here are a couple of pics I took leaning over the side of the boat.



Before.......And YES the 70 hp engine on the back was running like you see it...!!!

[kraw2]

For the fuel/water seperater I used SS capture nuts thru the backside on a piece of black Starboard. The Starboard was mounted to the transom using 4200 and screws. Now the filter is easier to remove and the whole thing can be easily removed without disturbing the seal to the transom.

[seabob4]

Excellent work, Kraw! I love "clean", and that is VERY clean!!    

[Fletch170]

Kraw,

I have to say, you do some really great work. Your boat looks awesome, and it seems you have a penchant for using "the good stuff".

I can say this entire process has been a steep learning curve. I've done a lot of things wrong that I had to go back and untimately fix. Frustrating, but part of the learning process.

If I had to do it agiain, I'd look for a boat like Kraw's....which wasn't that bad to begin with. Mine, giant sack of monkey sh*t. The only thing decent was that hull and a majority of the transom.

Anyhow, I digress. She will look a whole hell of a lot better than when I got her.

[kraw2]

Fletch you should be proud of what you have done..! Not many people will attack a boat like you have. They just go out and buy another one.

When your out on the water with the family you can say that YOU did it..!!

When I did mine I will never get the money out of it. I used only the best products and applications. Way too much for an older, small boat. With that said I will probably do another..!

[kraw2]

Excellent work, Kraw! I love "clean", and that is VERY clean!!    

Thank you but the bigle cover is crooked..!!!

[seabob4]

Excellent work, Kraw! I love "clean", and that is VERY clean!!    

Thank you but the bigle cover is crooked..!!!

What, you mean the pie?  With those pullouts, you can orient the handle anyway you want.  Sounds like operator error to me...

[Fletch170]

Mine is a pile of crap and I'll never get the money out of it, but yes, I can say "I built it".

Hey Fletch, why does the floor creek by the fuel fill?  "I built it"

Hey fletch, why are we all engulfed in flames "I built it"

Hey fletch, why does the coast guard look so concerned?

Etc Etc.

Basically, I was looking to buy a Bulls bay or one of the new Cobia (The new Cobia, really nice BTW) I decided I didn't want to finance a boat, and I wasnt going to pay 10 grand for something I didn't absolutely love. SO, I decided on a cheap boat I could redo, and beat the hell out of and not feel too bad about.

The down side is, I've been around some pretty amazing boats a majority of my life, and with that comes an appreciation of detail work, and the overall fit and finish of a boat. Mine lacks all of the above  :eye:

So, I'm sure it won't be long before I've found my ideal boat, like an old 23 Intrepid....In my opinnion, one of the nicest little boats ever built. And assuming my loving wife dosent murder me and throw my body down a well, I'll have one:)

[kraw2]

Intrepid boats are great. Theres a new 39' in this area now with tripple 350's on the back..!!