RickK's 170 rebuild

[Blue Agave]

Will she be ready by the 3rd of May?  

[CLM65]

Looking good Rick !  It may not seem like it, but you are making good progress.  I may have missed it - did you re-core your cap with plascore?

[RickK]

Will she be ready by the 3rd of May?  

Yup

But it won't this year  

[RickK]

Looking good Rick !  It may not seem like it, but you are making good progress.  

It's some monotonous stuff though.

I may have missed it - did you re-core your cap with plascore?

I recored the front part of the cap with plascore - you can see it in the cutouts in one of the first few pics of this series.  I will add plascore wherever I add the rear pop-up cleats.

[CLM65]

I recored the front part of the cap with plascore - you can see it in the cutouts in one of the first few pics of this series.  I will add plascore wherever I add the rear pop-up cleats.

That is what spawned my question.  What process did you use?  Did you add any glass between the cap and the core, or just thickened resin?  Also, does the core extend all the way to the outer edge of the cap?  The reason I ask is that the shoe box lip of the cap overhangs the hull by maybe 1-1/2 to 2 inches.  If you add 1/2 to 3/4 inches of core/glass all the way to the edge, the overhang will be that much smaller, meaning there is less interfacing material for thru-bolting the cap to the hull.  I know many people have added coring to their caps, but I don't recall ever seeing the details of how they did it.

[dirtwheelsfl]

I recored the front part of the cap with plascore - you can see it in the cutouts in one of the first few pics of this series.  I will add plascore wherever I add the rear pop-up cleats.

That is what spawned my question.  What process did you use?  Did you add any glass between the cap and the core, or just thickened resin?  Also, does the core extend all the way to the outer edge of the cap?  The reason I ask is that the shoe box lip of the cap overhangs the hull by maybe 1-1/2 to 2 inches.  If you add 1/2 to 3/4 inches of core/glass all the way to the edge, the overhang will be that much smaller, meaning there is less interfacing material for thru-bolting the cap to the hull.  I know many people have added coring to their caps, but I don't recall ever seeing the details of how they did it.

Yea youd wanna stop the coring a couple inches from the edge just for that reason.


Rick, don't know if you've done it or not yet, but where the cleat cut out is youre gonna wanna dig out some of the plascore and fill it with something solid (leave the skins). and put a nice backing plate behind of course. Id go at least an inch outside of the footprint of the cleat with the solid core. Same with the mounting screws for the nav light, hollow some core out and fill the void so youre screwing into more than the skin. Looks like youre going with a pop up style light?    Id even thrubolt it if you can, ive seen anchor lines rip off more than a few nav lights.

For the stern cleats I would skip the plascore and just layup some thick solid glass core and tab em in those areas. Im sure you've got plenty of scrap to layup a 1/4" thick sheet.

[CLM65]

Thanks Dirt!  That's exactly what I was looking for!

[RickK]

Hi guys - always thinking ain't ya?  That's what I like about you all.  

Remember this pic? Pic says at least a 100 words.  I cut glass to go under the plascore and up the lip of the liner and while it was wet I resined up the plascore and layed it in the wet undercloth and then covered the plascore in cloth and put some visqueen/blocks on it.  The cap is bowed up a little on the top side so I needed to do it all wet on wet.  The plascore can follow a little curve.


Chris, the cleats I have are through bolted.  See attachment, I can't seem to rotate it and save the file but the cleat is the right-hand picture "Studded Version".  It comes with a backer plate and I bought the water containment cup for each.
Do you think I should lam up a 1/4" of cloth and add it underneath the plascore under the front cleat, provided the bolts are long enough?
I think you are right about the approach for the rear cleats.  I have plenty of cloth left  
The front light is a popup and it'll through bolt.

[CLM65]

Remember this pic? Pic says at least a 100 words.

  Doh!  I remember it now!  Sorry, I didn't have time earlier to go back and see if you already answered my question.  But I should have known that you are two steps (or more) ahead of me!

[dirtwheelsfl]

Front cleat should be fine with the backing plate they give ya.   As long as the plascore there is replaced with something that wont crush when thrubolted. Trace the cleats footprint then hollow the core out maybe an inch past it and fill with something hi density.  

Or you can always cut the bottom skin there and replace the lil bit of plascore with something and glass back over while its off the boat.    Id do it this way( let gravity work for ya). Then just recut the hole in your new crush proof core...

[gran398]

quote:

Cut the bottom skin there and replace the lil bit of plascore with something and glass back over while its off the boat.    Id do it this way( let gravity work for ya). Then just recut the hole in your new crush proof core...[/quote]


Rick, we have some high density Permalloy (Penske Board) here. Say the word, happy to ship it.

[RickK]

Remember this pic? Pic says at least a 100 words.

  Doh!  I remember it now!  Sorry, I didn't have time earlier to go back and see if you already answered my question.  But I should have known that you are two steps (or more) ahead of me!

I'm only two steps ahead of you because I started my rebuild before you  

[RickK]

quote:

Cut the bottom skin there and replace the lil bit of plascore with something and glass back over while its off the boat.    Id do it this way( let gravity work for ya). Then just recut the hole in your new crush proof core...

Rick, we have some high density Permalloy (Penske Board) here. Say the word, happy to ship it.[/quote]
If you have some small scrap laying around, that will fill the need.

PM Sent - thanks Scott.

[gran398]

3/4 inch Permalloy heading south.

[RickK]

Thanks a lot Scott