RickK's 170 rebuild

[RickK]

This is what I am using to secure the hatch to the stringer - stainless 1/4-20 inserts


This is the setup I used to insert the inserts.  I cut a 1/4-20 bolt off so I could put it in a drill, put two nuts on the bolt - 1 to tighten to the insert and one to lock the two nuts.  Worked great.  You can see the source and part number also.

[RickK]

I used the same bit that I drilled the holes through the hatch and "kissed" the stringers to mark the holes. I used an 11/32" hole for the inserts into the stringers and on the second hole the the bit broke in half - Dewalt - titanium - brand new     And the stringer tops are what - maybe 3/8" thick?  I headed to the HD and bought 2 more bits.  Completed the job with one, so I'll take the other back.
I greased the inserts into the fiberglass with 5 minute epoxy and got them all set in placed.

[fishinonthebrain]

Interesting idea. You will thread and epoxy in the insert to the stringer so you have a sealed connection? No water into stringer good idea.


Damn I responded right before you posted the last picture and explanation.  

[RickK]

I guess there is always the chance that water will get into the stringers via the threads but I will caulk the bolts as I install them

[seabob4]

Rick, been looking at the pics today, excellent job!!  And a most HEARTY congrats on getting the floor installed!!!

That is pretty much a "point of no return" part of the build.  So you dot your I's, cross your T's...congrats bud!!  

[RickK]

Thanks Bob - "gettin er done" - with still a ton to do   .
It is a big step and a point of no return.  
You probably noticed the red wire in the starboard rigging tube, that's a pull wire for the bilge pump wiring that is coming through the "1/2" drain hole" in the tube. I have to snake a 3 wire cable from the pump to the console but that is the same side I need to snake out the engine harness with the 1-1/4" plug on the end and the throttle /shift cables.  I have to work through that 12" bilge hatch to pull the wire, probably last. Will be fun.  I already installed a wire hanger on the starboard stringer by the pump to route/support the wires from the pump.

[seabob4]

Rick, you don't have far to pull your rigging, and you have some pretty straight shots.  But...if you feel things are gonna get tight, do this.  Pull everything one at a time.  Start with the biggest, which is the engine harness.  The plug may be large, but once it's through, the harness is only about 5/8" in dia.  Then your main acc (hull) harness, then your batt cables, then your steering hoses (if you are going hyd), last your shift and throttle cables.  

If you feel you need to go this route, pull a new "pull wire" through with each pull.  You only need 2 lengths of wire, swap them out with each pull.

But I have a feeling you won't have any probs...

[RickK]

On Christmas Day??? How in the world did you get away with that??? Huge accomplishment   !

I was thinking the same thing. The wife must really want this boat done.  

Actually my wife helped gluing the sole in and pre-wet all the tabbing materials for me while I was in the boat.    (But you're right, she wants this thing done)

[Callyb]

Damn! Maybe I'm too late, but if you can remove those inserts it would be better to over-drill and create a cavity in the stringer foam and fill it with thickened epoxy. Then you can reset your inserts and have a guaranteed waterproof setup.

[dburr]

Put that one in your bag of tricks Carl! Over drill and plug the cover, put it in place then drill through both for the stringer plug pilot hole, then over drill and plug for the insert. Last step drill thought cover and into plug for the insert..

Something like that, yeah?

Nothing to it, just adds about  two more days to the project..

All the while Ms Rick is gonna be tapping her foot thinking "will this damn thing EVER get done!  

Rick how many doll houses/ fancy jewelry boxes you gonna have to build to off set this project?

[Callyb]

Dave I didn't quite follow you on that, but here is what I was talking about:

[RickK]

Damn! Maybe I'm too late, but if you can remove those inserts it would be better to over-drill and create a cavity in the stringer foam and fill it with thickened epoxy. Then you can reset your inserts and have a guaranteed waterproof setup.

I glued them in - doubt those babies are coming back out.

[RickK]

All the while Ms Rick is gonna be tapping her foot thinking "will this damn thing EVER get done!  

Rick how many doll houses/ fancy jewelry boxes you gonna have to build to off set this project?

Actually she doesn't really mind - knows where to find me if she needs something.

[dburr]

Dave I didn't quite follow you on that, but here is what I was talking about:

That's it Carl but I would have to put the cover on and drill through the whole show.. If I measured it with a micrometer, lined it up with a lazer to within .0001 and layed it out with a scribe and dyechem blue, as soon as I hit it with a drill (and the pieces were not clamped together) the dadblag holes would move     .. I always try and blame it on coreolis effect, tectonic movement or hysteresis... Whatever sounded good at the time..

That's a bonus Rick, if Laura thinks I am I the barn and finds me in the Boatshop the conversation doesn't start well and I know it's my fault cause I didn't tell her where I was gonna be.. You'd think after 30 years I'd learn.  

[seabob4]

Hysterisis...damn, haven't heard that term in a while.  Back to my Copperhead days at Lockheed-Martin.  Gyro test failure-Hysterisis...