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« Last post by RickK on October 17, 2025, 05:24:46 AM »
The only way to get the scuppers out of the water in the aft is to shed some weight back there. You can step down to a 2 stroke 90 hp, which will push the boat fine. The FBs don't jump up on plane like a V hull with strakes, they just start cutting through the water and start rising up toward the surface, going faster as they rise up. The hull is also known for "bow steering" - you're cruising along and hit a wave at the wrong angle and all of a sudden you've changed course 90 degrees. People have added a keel from about the 1/2 way point all the way aft to help the sliding that can happen when turning.
You can also cover the scuppers on the aft side of the transom with ping pong ball covers.
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« Last post by walloceans on October 16, 2025, 12:25:24 PM »
Thanks Rikk- I know what you are talking about- I have a friend with a saturated Aquasport 22. Mine shows none of those symptoms. The present engine is 450 # plus 100# of aluminum transom stiffener so, doing the math, that extra weight seems to account for it in the 22. The 240 I had opened the bilge up pretty much last winter and cleaned and checked everything I could get at. That boat had a good life with good maintenance until it sat a bit uncover through covid on a trailer. I got it pretty cheap becsude the engine was stuck. I had a replacement engine with the whole works, transom mount and outdrive so swapped them out. In doing so I discovered that the original engine was not stack but stuck in the outdrive transom bearing. So I have 2 small time good engines. I don't seem to have a waterlog issue.Many thanks/ Bob
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« Last post by RickK on October 16, 2025, 05:29:38 AM »
Your foam inside the stringers may be saturated with water. That will require some major surgery to repair. Not hard but major.
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« Last post by RickK on October 16, 2025, 05:26:45 AM »
Along the upper part of the site, below the Logo, you see a blue line going across. Find Profile and click on it. Along the upper part of the Profile section you'll find "Modify Profile" - in the modify section you'll find a "Signature" section that you can add your info to.
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« Last post by rhtrades on October 15, 2025, 04:58:33 PM »
Thanks for your reply. Access isn't the greatest, but doable. It is the style with the female round threaded base that's screwed onto a straight pipe, without Base built in. I figure its the original one that AS used...without the base.
Do you know what the downsides are without the base built in? Potential to break maybe when you're turning the ball valve on/off?
Thanks for your help.
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« Last post by walloceans on October 15, 2025, 04:40:51 PM »
HI Guys- further to above: I wanted to add to my profile- I have the 1972ish Aquasport 22 (Flatback) with the Evinrude 150 2 stroke. I also have 1972 (ish?) Aquasport 240 with the side console and small cuddy cabin forward. I swapped out a 4 cyll. 135 hp engine and outdrive for unused replacement, all together now running in N. Florida. Both useful boats and simple, bullet-proof, decent looking. How can I add those to a profile? Cheers/ Bob
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« Last post by walloceans on October 15, 2025, 02:41:40 PM »
Hi Guys- I did find a photo of the transom and it shows "Flatback" (no V) I would say slightly rounded at transom but not the V. Small sump on Centerline at transom with 2 through drainholes. Storage under aft end of fwd deck which opens up and out, large enough for spar 6 gallon tank and hoses, etc. Foredeck opens to anchor and line storage with through hull drain. Very Tough workable boat, I like it. I like that it is way less than $10K. Amazing that it is 50 years old.
So what does that leave me for best power? (Present is 150 hp Evinrude 2 stroke) Would like to shed some weight aft so the scuppers work. Many thanks/ Bob
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« Last post by dbiscayne on October 15, 2025, 12:45:31 PM »
Access to the part is a big part of whether or not its hard to replace. Has a few variables too.
Is it the style with a female round threaded base thats screwed onto a clam shell or other straight pipe, without a base built in? That'd be the easiest to replace but not really the best style.
If it's got a base built into it then count on removing the mounting screws, cleaning off old sealant, & new sealant for assembly. May or may not require you to also take off an outer clam shell.
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« Last post by kaptainkoz on October 15, 2025, 10:25:19 AM »
Thank you. I’ve seen those. They could work in some instances but maybe not for shorter screws. I don’t think they take into account enough space for the “clearance hole” in the image above. The piece being fastened cannot be affected by the threads or it will hang up and not pull tight. In any case I would suggest a test piece to make sure you are getting the results you want before you go for a final piece. I do like the taper of these drill bits for the wood screws. Thank you Rick, as always much appreciated input.
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« Last post by plugger on October 15, 2025, 08:21:20 AM »
Bet if you could tell the shop year,make of engine he could come up with one that would work. . I believe Johnson for example was 3 digit (7—) serial number of motor probably best
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