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« Last post by kaptainkoz on October 30, 2025, 12:52:07 AM »
Getting ready to put the rub rail back on. Before I do I sealed the seam of the two halves of the boat with 5200. There was some original sealant there but I gave it another coat. Buffed the cap and applied Collinite wax to give it a seal for the winter. I also sealed the floor with Star Brite non skid deck wax. I want to make sure nothing stains the virgin gelcoat. It’s so shiny and clean. The photos do not do it justice. It’s breathtaking to me to see it this way. Still some dimpling/orange peel in the gel coat so I may wet sand again in the spring in some spots. May leave it for fear of rubbing through. Who knows. Every blemish is screaming at me right now I need to just move on and let things be. I also installed the floor drains and the hatch drains. The fore hatch drain is 100% complete and drains through the original starboard mid thru hull location. All thru hulls are bronze now. No plastics. The transom floor drains still have to be connected to the thru hulls. Problem is I cannot bend the white sanitary drain hose that aggressively so I will have to install nylon barbed 90’s. I will also have to add a thru hull for the aft hatch drain… probably right next to the starboard aft thru hull. Not thrilled about making another hole in the boat but I’ll get into more detail on plumbing the transom drains later. Still have to figure out what I’m doing with the live well. Right now it has no holes in it at all so it doesn’t drain. Not crazy about draining fish muck into the bilge so I have to rig some sort of pump maybe. I have a few ideas but I can finish that at any time. I do not want to do any rigging without the transom cap in place. If I can install it with the cap in place I can remove it with the cap in place. I don’t want to rig then add the cap then realize I can’t reach something. That cap isn’t coming back off (If I can help it).        
52
« Last post by msteinkampf on October 29, 2025, 05:43:12 PM »
We reinstalled the rub rail by cleaning the salvaged rigid vinyl pieces and reinstalling them. The rail had been installed by the builder using sheet metal screws and no sealant, but for the replacement we used truss-head screws and SikaFlex 291LOT, a much more secure attachment in my opinion. We replaced the damaged port corner at the stern by securing one end of the new piece with a screw, gently heating the rail with a heat gun, carefully bending it around the corner, and holding it in place until it had cooled.   We then inserted the flexible insert, starting at the stern and proceeding around the hull. This required using a heat gun to make the insert more flexible. I recall SeaBob saying that at the factory they stretched the insert while installing it to make it easier to install, but we specifically avoided doing this to minimize the risk of the insert pulling out from the vinyl piece at the prow as it cooled. We used WD-40 to lubricate the insert, but soapy water or silicone spray would probably have done just as well. This was a tedious two-man job that required 1 hour and 40 minutes to accomplish, but it looked great on completion. The original insert was gray, but this color is no longer available, and I prefer the look of a black rail anyway.  M
53
« Last post by msteinkampf on October 29, 2025, 05:06:44 PM »
I repaired the hull-to-deck joint by grinding down the damaged areas, applying some 6-ounce fiberglass cloth under the lip of the joint, and finishing with polyester structural repair putty and a brushed-on layer of gel coat. We then cut some one-inch-wide spacers from fiberglass salvaged from the deck that had been previously cut out over the fuel tank.  We next reinstalled the Starboard under the bow sprit and applied a bead of SikaFlex 292 (similar to 3M 5200) as high as we could up into the joint.  We then buttered the spacers with the SikaFlex 292, inserted them into the joint space, and secured the joint with sheet metal screws and machine screws with Nylock nuts and fender washers. We used fiberglass spacers inside the cabin as back plates, a tedious two-man job. We then further filled in the joint with SikaFlex 291LOT, a product which I believe is similar to what the builder used to seal gaps in the joint. This was the final result.  After the repair, the bow sprit and prow seemed solid, with none of the flexing that we had encountered before the repair. M
54
« Last post by msteinkampf on October 29, 2025, 04:29:23 PM »
Meanwhile, I filled in the cut lines in the deck. Note how the gel coat color changes with sanding.   I didn’t want to spend a lot of time on this job, so after cleaning out the kerf, I just taped off the non-skid, filled in the kerf with TotalBoat polyester structural repair putty, and painted on a couple of coats of gel coat. (I didn’t bother to try to color match this.) I figured that if this repair failed, I could sand it down and apply some fiberglass cloth before gel coating. M
55
« Last post by msteinkampf on October 29, 2025, 04:08:36 PM »
I used the matches to drip the pigment onto the spoons. I used some table saw scraps to mix the pigment with the gel coat in the spoons.
M
56
« Last post by Ulysses485 on October 29, 2025, 11:54:01 AM »
Nice work! That gelcoat color matching is no easy task! I have to ask, what are the matches for? Safe to assume small mixing sticks?
57
« Last post by RickK on October 29, 2025, 11:41:39 AM »
Looks good
58
« Last post by msteinkampf on October 29, 2025, 09:26:00 AM »
Although I haven’t posted lately, work is continuing. This is my rig for spraying gel coat on the top and electronics box. I bought a new spray gun from a Canadian company ( https://www.thegelcoater.com/) and a used compressor with the capacity to power a spray gun.  My color matching setup. Add a drop of pigment to a spoonful of gel coat, mix, add as needed to a cup of gel coat, dab onto a scrap of hull, then repeat as needed. A 2:2:1 ratio of brown/yellow/black seemed to approach the factory color, but there is a catch to this – when one sands the boat hull even lightly, a brownish “patina” is removed, yielding a lighter color. That didn’t matter for this part of the project since I was overcoating everything, patching the hull would be a different matter.  tq I was satisfied with the results, but if I had it to do over, I would buy a gallon of gel coat resin (instead of the two quarts that I had, one with wax and the other without), skip the color matching and either spray using a surfacing additive that gives a smoother finish, or just roll on multiple layers of gel coat and sand it lightly. I’d also buy gel coat without wax so that I could add wax just for the last coat.  M
59
« Last post by wrightex on October 28, 2025, 04:24:02 PM »
Older restoration, 2013. Stringers repaired, entire hull glassed,new floor, transom enclosed, paint, etc.
New console and t-top, Bennet trim tabs, port-a-bracket, 30 gallon leaning post live well, Raymarine A70d, Pro mariner on board charger, safety equipment,etc. Performance trailer has new tires & lights.
Boat was sitting for 3-4 years due to illness. Recently brought back to life with new fuel line, batteries, all new pumps, float switch. Engine was gone through by mechanic ($2600.00) Runs great. It is an older OX 66 Saltwater Series 2 stroke. I have only put 44 hours on it since restoration.
Wiring done by the great Seabob, of Classic Aquasport fame. Asking $17,500 obo. Anyone that’s restored one knows I have a lot more invested.
I have a bunch of pics if interested.
Thanks
60
« Last post by FLDAN on October 28, 2025, 09:48:13 AM »
Im not sure if I'm going to purchase one yet. I wanted to know if anyone else has already installed something like this on their boat. I could go with a topside mount if necessary.
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