1973 Aquasport 19-6 Rebuild

[thennutts]

flykeyaqua,

the plan i have right now is to do what the current boat builders are doing. i plan on building a bulkhead about 20" back from the transom and using 4lb pour foam in there so there will be NO way water could even get near the transom from the inside. with this being done id have to have the drains out the side. thats why i was curious if anyone has done this and how it worked!

-chris

[LilRichard]

TN - are you referring to cockpit drains?  I did that on my build... works fine!  I built up a little bit of foam/glass on the inside and then put PVC through it (so there was more room for a plug).

See here:



You can see at the rear of the cockpit, right side... this is before I put the PVC through it.



This is before I put the clamshell cover on the outside.

[thennutts]

lilrichard,

yes, I am talking about cockpit drains. You did  really nice job on yours. Take a look at the picture below, I was thinking about recessing these bad boys in the floor and running a short hose to a nice chrome through hull out the sides. Same concept, just a little different set up as yours. Still not set in stone, just kicking some ideas around, we shall see when that time comes, just planning ahead. Thanks a bunch for your input richard, I really appriciate it!

-Chris

[LilRichard]

Those will work, but will put the thruhull below the waterline... which I am not a big fan of.  In theory, you should then add seacocks to the drains - in case a hose lets go.  Seems very complicated for a scupper setup IMO.

[thennutts]

Got the wood brackets off the transom and got the bolts out. To be honest it wasnt too bad to get off. I ended up taking off the outter piece of wood and had to pry the other ones off , busting them in pieces and leaving the nutts and bolts exposed. Then, I used a sawz-all to saw off the threads with the nut. Used a small hole punch and drove the heads out. Everything turned out great, when i hit the transom with my fist its like a poured concrete wall, very happy with it. Next, I will be tabbing with 1708 glass and finishing the inside part of the transom with the same material. We are getting a cold front down here in ft myers(so we shall see if the weather man is right for a change) so probably no glassing for a couple days but I will be sanding and preping for some serious progress this weekend!

Lilrichard,

I totally agree with you. Im always kicking ideas around. i think we will have to see what happens when that time comes. Im better at gametime decisions anyhow  8)

[LilRichard]

Sounds good - how about some interior shots!

[thennutts]

So I spoke with the guys from FGCI on friday about this divinycell h80 core material for my boat. They gave me some good insight. They said that the contender boats us the h80 1" thick divinycell for there stringers. The 4 x 7 sheet cost about 180 bucks a sheet. I was thinking that id need 3 total sheets to make my stringer system as well as the bulkheads. At the end of the conversation he recommended that I use wood, because the compression strength of wood is twice as much as the composite. He noted that where you lack strength you have to add fiberglass. So weigts will be similar, he actually said "there may be a total of a 60-80 lbs difference on the entire build". So  I thought, wow, your right ill go to home depot and check out regualr wood and seal it very well with resin/styrene. So i marched over to home depot and went straight to the 2 x 12 x 16, which is what I would like to use. WOW, I dont know what that guy was smoking but that piece of wood was so heavy that there is NO way id use that thing. It had to have been 60-80 lbs itself( x2), plus sealer and 3 layers of 1708, bulk heads etc id be better off using concrete pilings as stringers. ALL in all, I am going to use a material from michigan composites which they sell at fiberglass services in sarasota fl. The prices are almost identical(maybe even cheaper) as the divinycell, but the density is MUCH higher( avail in 10,14,20,24#) and the compression strength KILLS divinycell.

By the way I couldn't get much done on the boat this weekend, too cold to glass plus it was on and off rain, but I did work on the center console by filling some holes including 2 7" speaker holes, came out nice will post pics soon!

-Chris

[thennutts]

AS hull ID

[thennutts]

back sanded down

[thennutts]

started to sand down the engine cover. Had a ton of chips all in it and one impact mark that needs to be fixed with glass.

[thennutts]

duct tape backed with wax paper. So I can fill in the holes for the clamp system I built.

[thennutts]

this is a picture of the gap along the bottom of the core transom. Not very much of a gap at all, but I will be filling these flat with resin/cabosil to make them flat so my tabbing will fit nicely.

[thennutts]

[thennutts]

The putty I made. I used my moms cake decorator with a long tip to toally fill these holes with no air, I burried the long tip in there and slowl pulled out while filling. and I used that whle icing deal. Ill tell you what, these things kicked butt! But I will tell you you have only about 3 minutes to use the cake decorator, because the plastic bag started to melt and turn into a soft soft rubber. So work quick!

[thennutts]