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Author Topic: 1991 21 WAC  (Read 15343 times)

March 28, 2010, 08:26:13 PM
Reply #60

Capt. Bob

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Re: 1991 21 WAC
« Reply #60 on: March 28, 2010, 08:26:13 PM »
Weather has been good for the last couple of days so I tried my hand at repairing the tank coffin cover and adding the extra hatches.

Background... Since I shortened the tank, I moved the batteries into the tank coffin. I cut in an access hatch (off the CCP). In order to minimize hatch holes, I ended up rotating the cover 180 degrees and cut the large hatch over the factory deck plate that allowed access to the tank fuel line and gauge sender. Since the tank was shifted  (due to its shorter length) I needed to add another deck plate to allow access to the new sender/fuel line location. This still left the factory installed center deck plate (original access to the fuel fill and vent). Access to these now comes from the battery well hatch by the removal of a false bulk head between the tank and battery compartment.
That left the original hatch staring at the top center of the tank (but allowing access to the splice on the sending unit). Rather than close up that hole, I left it for ventilation while the boat is parked. Hopefully, it will help with air circulation and keep the tank coffin a little dryer.  

Original pic of removed tank cover. This is the center deck plate



Center deck plate repair.



Completed cover from the back



Cover fitted in place

]
Capt. Bob
1991 210 Walkaround
2018 Yamaha 150 4 Stroke
"Reef or Madness IV"

March 29, 2010, 05:13:24 AM
Reply #61

RickK

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Re: 1991 21 WAC
« Reply #61 on: March 29, 2010, 05:13:24 AM »
Good job Robert  :salut:
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

March 29, 2010, 05:58:44 PM
Reply #62

bobterisch

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Re: 1991 21 WAC
« Reply #62 on: March 29, 2010, 05:58:44 PM »
Nice work! :thumleft:
2002 225 Explorer
225HP 4 Stroke


April 03, 2010, 11:40:30 PM
Reply #63

Asport-Rog

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Re: 1991 21 WAC
« Reply #63 on: April 03, 2010, 11:40:30 PM »
Very nice Capt. Bob!  :thumleft:
1977 AS 170
Criticism is easier than craftsmanship

April 04, 2010, 05:58:34 AM
Reply #64

RickK

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Re: 1991 21 WAC
« Reply #64 on: April 04, 2010, 05:58:34 AM »
Looks good.  Doesn't even look like the same bilge  :cheers:
Never heard of that brand of seacock - is it metal?
Is that bare spot in front of the bilge pump where the float switch used to be?  Where is it now?
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

April 04, 2010, 07:33:55 AM
Reply #65

Capt. Bob

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Re: 1991 21 WAC
« Reply #65 on: April 04, 2010, 07:33:55 AM »
Thanks guys.
A lot of the crud was fuel mixed with bilge water that caused the black staining. The fuel tank coffin had the same crap. :puker:

Marelon is a composite material (glass fused nylon :scratch: ). I vacillated between this and the standard bronze fittings. It's very light and easy to work with and if you check the link below, is approved for use in the boating industry. I did a lot of research and spoke with the manufacturer before making the choice.

http://www.forespar.com/MarelonPlumbing ... bout.shtml

The rectangular spot without paint was (I'm guessing) where the factory original float switch resided. I'll assume the PO replaced both the switch and OEM pump with the one you now see. Theoretically, you don't need a switch with this type of "automatic" pump. When you place the pump in auto, it runs every 2.5 minutes (for 1 sec.) to "sense" for resistance caused by the presence of water. If water is present, it continues to run till it overcomes the resistance and returns to its "automatic" cycling mode. Rule claims that energy consumed for this automation is minimal.  :?

http://www.rule-industries.com/products ... /index.htm

Its not very loud in this mode but it seems like a weird way of doing things. It does however remove the chance of float switch failure from the equation. I did read that some boaters using this style pump add an additional float switch to the mix to limit the cycling. : My forward bilge does have a float switch.
]
Capt. Bob
1991 210 Walkaround
2018 Yamaha 150 4 Stroke
"Reef or Madness IV"

May 29, 2010, 08:18:24 PM
Reply #66

Capt. Bob

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Re: 1991 21 WAC
« Reply #66 on: May 29, 2010, 08:18:24 PM »
Since the 91 WAC didn't come with a ventilation hatch like later models, I always planned on adding one at some point in time.

Fearless Leader's (Rick K.) 92 EX didn't have one either so he added a very retro looking hatch. He contacted me a while back and said he ran across another one like it while shopping at a Marine Discount store. I picked it up but just got around to cutting out the cabin for it today.

Inside insert. I used this as a template for the cutout.


Line drawn and taped for surface protection. Notice starter hole in lower corner.


Cutout complete.


Dry fitting. Opened.


Closed.


I still need to seal the core material with resin and mount the hatch but it's a start.
]
Capt. Bob
1991 210 Walkaround
2018 Yamaha 150 4 Stroke
"Reef or Madness IV"

May 29, 2010, 10:14:54 PM
Reply #67

Marcq

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Re: 1991 21 WAC
« Reply #67 on: May 29, 2010, 10:14:54 PM »
Nice looking hatch  :thumleft: , is it transparent ?

Marc..
1979 170 Aquasport 70hp Evinrude

May 29, 2010, 10:55:49 PM
Reply #68

Capt. Bob

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Re: 1991 21 WAC
« Reply #68 on: May 29, 2010, 10:55:49 PM »
Yes it is (more opaque maybe).
I thought the glass had a protective cover on it (I thought the salesperson said it was "smoked") when I first saw it but I believe Rick's is the same.
Maybe I'm wrong. :scratch:
]
Capt. Bob
1991 210 Walkaround
2018 Yamaha 150 4 Stroke
"Reef or Madness IV"

May 30, 2010, 05:21:39 AM
Reply #69

RickK

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Re: 1991 21 WAC
« Reply #69 on: May 30, 2010, 05:21:39 AM »
Looks nice Bob - for me it was scary drilling that first BIG hole, 'cause then you're committted.  
It's the same as mine - let's light in but you can't see through it - translucent.
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

October 10, 2010, 07:56:53 PM
Reply #70

Capt. Bob

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Re: 1991 21 WAC
« Reply #70 on: October 10, 2010, 07:56:53 PM »
Well it's been some time since I posted any new developments with my 91.

I finished up the helm station (for now) several months ago. Nothing spectacular and tried to keep at least a small percentage of the area like it came from the factory.
I've replaced all the fuse holders and toggle switches. Where the PO had a rusting FM radio, I filled the cut out with my Flow Scan unit, a fuse holder and toggle.


I also added a Datel digital voltmeter and a battery percent charge meter. That meter resides where the factory hour meter was located. It had stopped working at 640 hrs. and who knows when that happened. <!-- s:scratch: -->:scratch:<!-- s:scratch: -->


I relocated the live well from the CCP. It takes up some space but it also frees up the factory well for dry storage. You can see the mold growing on the overflow hose which I connected to the factory thru hull discharge.


Also, for those members who pilot the 215 EX, you know about the removable/folding transom board. My WAC had evidence of one being in place (plastic channels on both sides) so using some scrap aluminum channel I had, I replaced the plastic.
 

Using some scrap Starboard, I fashioned a panel but the control wiring/gas line/steering hydraulic hoses/battery cables put too much pressure on the panel so I fabbed some offset supports on the panel thus moving it out away from the cables. I added a second panel and mounted some plastic rod holders. This panel folds like the factory one in order to allow the motor to achieve full tilt. The motor will fully trim up without lowering the top panel or removing the whole mess. The entire two piece panel removes easily.


Lastly, I broke down and bought a wash down/bait well pump and mounted in the storage area where one of the factory batteries was located. I left enough wire (black and red coiled) to allow relocation in the bilge if necessary.


The jury's still out on this rig. I've never own one before so until I can get the boat in the water, I won't know.
The overflow discharge (bait well) has been reduced to fit the thru hull so I don't know if I can run the well and not have it overflow out the top.  <!-- s:( -->:(<!-- s:( -->
Hopefully, some day I'll be rich and can re-power the WAC. Then I can clean up that mess in the compartment.
Time will tell
]
Capt. Bob
1991 210 Walkaround
2018 Yamaha 150 4 Stroke
"Reef or Madness IV"

October 10, 2010, 10:32:23 PM
Reply #71

xo4001

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Re: 1991 21 WAC
« Reply #71 on: October 10, 2010, 10:32:23 PM »
Some nice upgrades :thumright:
1971? Aquasport 240 Seahunter
H254
2 X Merc 115 4s

October 11, 2010, 05:17:27 AM
Reply #72

RickK

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Re: 1991 21 WAC
« Reply #72 on: October 11, 2010, 05:17:27 AM »
Lookin' good Bob  :thumright:  :thumleft:
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

October 11, 2010, 09:09:26 AM
Reply #73

GoneFission

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Re: 1991 21 WAC
« Reply #73 on: October 11, 2010, 09:09:26 AM »
Lookin' good Bob!  Nice makeover.   :thumleft:
Cap'n John
1980 22-2 CCP
Mercury 200 Optimax 
ASPA0345M80I
"Gone Fission"
ClassicAquasport Member #209


November 01, 2010, 07:21:15 PM
Reply #74

Capt. Bob

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Re: 1991 21 WAC
« Reply #74 on: November 01, 2010, 07:21:15 PM »
When I bought the 91 I noticed that there was some "damage" to the plastic molding that covers the connection between the top of the transom and the cap. I didn't take a photo of it before I removed the section of molding. What I'm looking for is some ideas from the group as to the "repair".

I know how I'd do it if I removed the motor and the remaining molding. I'd do away with the molding and glass the cap and transom together, like it exist on my CCP but....

I'm not at that point yet so I need to repair the left side but don't want to do a half ass job. That stated.....

Right side with factory molding in place


Left side molding removed


When I removed the molding, the bonding/filler material  went out to the edge of the transom. I chiseled it back before I took the photo. The rough cut and grinding on both the transom and the cap was done at the factory and hidden by the molding.
You can see the grinding a little better here, along with the rivets that secured the molding and the "shadow" it left on the gelcoat after 19 years.

There is about a 1/2" between the end of the cap and the back of the transom.


This gap, along with the space between the cap and transom themselves was filled with some fiberglass (I'm guessing) concoction. One question is, what should I use to re-fill this space? I'm thinking resin with cabosil or maybe something that's easier to sand and shape. Another question would be, has anyone seen the molding (I really doubt it) or know where this may be found?

Thanks in advance.
]
Capt. Bob
1991 210 Walkaround
2018 Yamaha 150 4 Stroke
"Reef or Madness IV"

 


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