1970 Aquasport 222 FB rebuild

[Aswaff400]

so far my system is working well, and can have all 3 800gph pumps going and have plenty of flow, and i have both wells drain into a single 1-1/2 inch drain and have had no issues with drain flow either. on any given day ill normally have 2 pumps running at once, one for each well, the only time ill ever have the 3 pump going is if my main well is blacked out.

 most 800gph pumps have 3/4 inch inlets and outlets. for plumbing both pumps on one thru-hull, id go with 1-1/4 inch sized plumping, pickup, valve, strainer, and T's and 90's with 1-1/4 to 3/4 reducer bushings. for the drain, a single 1-1/2 inch drain is fine. try to get the drain as close to the waterline as you can. i waited until my deck and transom well was in to put the drains in as i was unsure exactly how high i could get it. ad put a valve on the drain thru-hull too

[HawgLeg]

Thanks Aaron. That helped me a bunch!

[HawgLeg]

I need some help with planning my scupper set up. I raised the deck 4 inches. No idea where the water line will be when she's rigged and the motor is hung. Ya'll think I would be safe with the transom scuppers an inch lower than the deck scuppers? This is a newbie question but is it just a hose that connects the deck scupper to the transom thru hull?

[Blue Agave]

Hey there, not sure I follow your question. What's the difference between what you call a deck scupper and a transom scupper?  When I drilled the holes for my scuppers I got them as low as I could get them based on the floor of the boat.

[HawgLeg]

Hey there, not sure I follow your question. What's the difference between what you call a deck scupper and a transom scupper?  When I drilled the holes for my scuppers I got them as low as I could get them based on the floor of the boat.

By deck scupper I mean the thru hull at the face of the cabinet/false bulkhead

[CLM65]

A picture would help, but in general you need the transom thru-hull (scupper) lower than the deck fitting.  It is also advisable to keep your scupper above the water line if possible to minimize the potential for water to enter when you back a trailered boat down a ramp or get hit with a following wave, or if the hose should ever break while unattended.  So I would mount the scupper as high as possible while maintaining a negative slope in the hose.  That is what I plan to do on mine, but I am using deck drains instead of going through the vertical cabinet wall.

[RickK]

Look at Aaron's rebuild - it shows his scupper arrangement with the hose between them.

[Aswaff400]

i think my transom scuppers are an inch lower than the deck scuppers. maybe 1-1/2 inch, i dont remember. between that and there's a good downward flow to them thanks to the  drain trough they sit in, its about one of the best draining boats in my marina.

[HawgLeg]

i think my transom scuppers are an inch lower than the deck scuppers. maybe 1-1/2 inch, i dont remember. between that and there's a good downward flow to them thanks to the  drain trough they sit in, its about one of the best draining boats in my marina.

Thanks. I'd like to figure out how to create a trough without having to cut into my stringers. It would be nice. What size scuppers did you go with?

[HawgLeg]

Got the rigging tubes in




Got the tank back in the coffin and laid out the tie down and the brackets. Still have to glue the neoprene to the tie downs and mount the aluminum brackets but that is almost complete. I sat the casting deck back in the bow and it fits within my stringer notches perfectly. I have it set up on top of the stringers for now while I'm messing with the tank. Also have to attach a drain hose to the fish box that will attach to a thru hull on the face of the casting deck so it can drain onto the sole and out the scuppers.

[RickK]

Nice clean work 

[HawgLeg]

The foam came in. It is 2.2 lb Polyethylene. The plan is to fill the voids between bulkheads with layers. If I want to add storage down the road it should be easy enough to pull out. Should reduce hull slap and will definitely give me peace of mind. It should only add about 80 or so pounds to the boat. I will have to sit down and do some calcs to see if I'll be positively buoyant but hey somethin is better than nothin right. I had constructed a hot knife to cut my shapes but then I found it was much easier to cut with an old chef knife we keep at the shop. Sharpened it up real good and it cut like butter. There is already a "skin" on the faces of the planks. I experimented with our heat gun and I can create that same skin on the sides as well so It should be all sealed up.

[HawgLeg]

[HawgLeg]

I'm trying to plumb the overflow and drain together to flow out of one 1 1/2" thru transom. I have a few ideas but has anyone got a tried and true method? The drain is a 1 1/2" hose barb and the overflow is a 1 1/2" female threaded.

[Capt. Bob]

You need one of these.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=11873&familyName=Midland+Metal+Mfg+Male+Hose%2FBarb+Pipe+Adapters

One of these.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=13764&familyName=White+Nylon+Hose+Barb+T-Fittings

Several of these.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=1718

A length of this.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4133&familyName=Shields+White+Sanitation+VAC+Heavy+Duty+Hose

And one of these to control flow selection.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4228&familyName=Forespar+Marelon+Y-Valves

Good luck.