1996 225 Mercury Offshore (carb)

[redemn93]

i guess i have to agree.  i have problems with modding stuff.  cant even leave my daily driver alone.  but for comfort reasons the rubber is probably the better way to go.

[Fletch170]

I think I'll stick with the rubber ones, as much as the CNC ones are more affordable and will never break. I'm affraid of this big bruiser of a motor shaking itself and my transom apart.

I know I'll do everything right, and I want to be sure it is safe and reliable when im 30 miles out. Also, I want to be sure im not wasting money on OEM bolts when they arent necessary.

[fitz73222]

Item 20 $9.60 each (2 in stock)


http://www.marineengine.com/parts/mercu ... eering-arm

[fitz73222]

Looked for the exhaust adapter to replace the cracked one. NLA new so you might wont to negotiate the mid section after all, to get the exhaust adapter out of it. I want you to try Funtime Boats, down here in Merritt Island, they are great for used parts like this. Ask for Karen or Cindy. I've bought lots of NLA parts and castings from them. They are great to work with on used parts.

[Fletch170]

I'm going to reach out to the guy and see if he'll sell me the exhaust plate. if not ill check with your  guys.

I just dropped 400 bucks on all new hardware/ mounts/ gaskets/ etc...... I'm now 4k into the motor.

All in, should be around $4500. UGHHHHHHH. Oh well, at least im learning a lot.

[Fletch170]

Just keeps getting better here.

3 bolts broke off in the mid section, tried every method I know of, they are in there. After drilling one out, punched it too fat and drilled right through into the exhaust.

Which brings be to my next point. The exhaust is completely shot, cracks and holes everywhere. Contacted the guy I bought the new mid parts from, and he thinks there are cracks in his exhaust plate as well. I've given up and asked him to send all of the remaining parts, and I'll have to find a exhaust plate.

I'm glad im replacing this stuff, because the more I dig, the more I see this motor was COMPLETELY unsafe. The bottom spline and retainer on the yoke were GONE, as was the bottom of the swivel.

Will add pictures later.

[redemn93]

my motor was in the same shape.  the donor motor i picked up was a good fresh water unit and in great shape thankfully.  sorry its turning into a pain.  thats how these older mercs are though.  but when you are done itll be like new again as far as all that goes.

[Fletch170]

[Fletch170]

Bit the bullet, bought a new mid section and exhaust plate for 180 bucks plus shipping. Could be worse.......

[Fletch170]

Good god, where do I start.

1. $180 mid section was lost in the mail, seller refunded.
2. Found another mid section from a 1999, arrived several days later, USPS broke the exhaust flange. Seller refunded. Sent back.
3. Found a 2001 mid section from an optimax. It's perfect.

Soooooo here is the deal. I noticed a few differences:

1. The water pump from the 1995 lower unit, does not align with the 2001 mid section. Is there any way to make these two work? Or do I need to track down a newer lower unit?

2. The coolant hose barbs on the exhaust plate on the 2001 mid section are much bigger than the 1995, and the barbs on the thermostats.

3. There is a plastic fitting that goes into the exhaust plate, what is this? How can I make this work on my motor?

Any insight would be greatly appreciated!!!

[Fletch170]

Looks like the rubber cuppling between the water pump and the water tube is different from the 2001 and the 1995, I hope to god this is a simple fix (15 dollar part).

Anyone know anything about that?

[fitz73222]

I never Frankenmerc'd a 3.0 liter so I have no clue as to what interchanges or not between model years. One of things I do is dive into detail and research by serial number range and model year which uses the same parts or not. It takes lots of time to do it and you are assured you are shopping for the correct parts.  An example is last week Seabob had an identified 115 L6 powerhead that did not match up to the serial number on the engine bracket. We had to identify the serial number range it actually was by which connecting rod bolt design it had in it after he tore it down. So go to your favorite parts website and take the deep dive into the serial numbers, diagrams and part numbers and decide what will work for you.

[Fletch170]

I agree. Sorry, sometimes I use the forum as a vetting tool, talking it through sometimes helps me understand what I need to do. Sometimes people chime in and point out that I'm an idiot:)

The water pumps are the same for both years. The more I dig, looks like the lower end is the same for the year mid sections. On a schematic, the miss are the same (with the exception of the coolant inlet on the exhaust plate, which I will screw in a bung.)

What differs, is the exhaust and water tube.

Frankenmerc,

Anchor section from a 98, power head from a 95, mid from a 2001, 1995 lower, and a cowl from a 1996 250 offshore.

[gran398]

Keep up the positive thinking.  And no...you're not an idiot.

Here's the good news. Fitz knows as much or more about Mercury outboards than most dealership technicians. My experience and nickel says if it can be done, he can make it happen. And if so, this thing will run like a real....Frankenmerc  

[Fletch170]

Fitz, so, I'm stuck here and I need your help. The mid section was a 2001, but I don't know the correct serial number for that year. To your knowledge, which of the following serial ranges is correct for a 2001 optimax 225:

0T801000-1B417701

1B417702-1B504988

1B504989-Up

I've spent an hour looking online for a backwards way to come to the correct range, with no dice. Help?