1996 225 Mercury Offshore (carb)

[Fletch170]

Literally sending everything BUT the mid section casting. Since I didnt NEED the mid section, I said to keep it and cover the shipping.

By the time I'm done here, it's going to be a damn near new motor.

Anyone have a Merc 17 inch stainless prop laying around they would like to sell?

[redemn93]

pretty much what i did with my old 150.  looked like hell when i got it but ran great.  pulled the heads, milled flat, new gaskets.  pull the powerhead.  new solid upper/lower mounts, perfect condition tiller, yadi yada with the blah.  now i need to reseal the trim unit but that isnt too big a deal.

[Fletch170]

SO guys, what is the purpose of removing the powerhead? Is it just so it's easier to put stuff back together? I can see if you arent careful, you might screw up the shifting rod.

[fitz73222]

The upper motor mount nuts are in a recess under the powerhead. You have to unbolt the mounts to change out the swivel pin and tiller arm.

[Fletch170]

i see what you are saying, but i'm not replacing the swivel pin and tiller arm, im replacing the ENTIRE assembly with a new one. Am I crazy?

[redemn93]

right.  its going to be a bitch though or you may just get lucky.  itll be like new when you are through and totally worth it.

to start, go ahead an remove the lower cowl.  start loosening the all the nuts holding the power head down.  some may turn out with the stud from the PH.  its ok.  once the powerhead is free just keep loosening while raising the PH until the studs are out.  you will probably need to replace many of the studs.  if so, get a whole set.  if the front 4 studs are holding the PH on let us know.  

once the PH is off, strap the mid section to the rear cleats (or the motor stand if you are doing it on a stand) so it doesn't fall back.  remove the c-clip from the bottom of the yoke, if it still there.  itll pop right off with a flathead and pull up on the plate/swivel assembly.  itll come out as an assembly with the tuner etc.  sometimes it needs a little convincing.  hopefully the seller didn't totally disassemble what he is sending you.  once you get that far let us know.  this is truly easy work if it weren't for corrosion.  you'll see as you move along.

[redemn93]

i see what you are saying, but i'm not replacing the swivel pin and tiller arm, im replacing the ENTIRE assembly with a new one. Am I crazy?

you're not crazy.  is it coming with the transom bracket and trim unit also?  PH needs to come off either way.

[Fletch170]

Yes.....it comes with all that.

But.....why?? Physically, WHY does the PH need to come off???? I seriously don't understand....

[redemn93]

the steering arm will not come out without removing the powerhead.  the 2 bolts going through the steering arm at the base of the powehead go into the upper mounts.  no way to remove them unless you pull the powerhead, period.  the upper mounts/nuts on the back end of the bolts are sandwiched between 2 plates.  you are basically doing a full teardown of the outboard without disassembling the PH itself.  its not hard work.  a little time consuming if this is your first shot.  if you werent so far away i would offer to come help for a day and show you what needs to be done.  

here is my motor after reassembly.

[redemn93]

if you want to remove the transome bracket and trim to replace all that, dont remove the tilt.  remove the lower unit, then the PH, remove lower mounts, pull off the mid. put mid on new transom/swivel/steering arm assembly, PH the lower.

be prepared to buy new PH studs, gasket needed between PH and upper plate, bolts for upper and lower mounts.  cover all PH studs, mounts, mount housings and mount bolts in non hardening gasket sealer as well as a light coats on both sides of any new gaskets.  if your head gaskets look iffy along the edges, now is a good time to replace them.  get the heads milled for flatness, not to raise compression.  when its all done.  get a quart of rustomleum industrial black.  the label is a chrome/brushed aluminum look.  put 4-5 thick coats on the steering arm, especially at the bolts, lower yoke and anywhere else there is any rust now.  cover that thick.  working great so far for me.

[fitz73222]

Yes.....it comes with all that.

But.....why?? Physically, WHY does the PH need to come off???? I seriously don't understand....

 Jason,very good description and illustration of what needs to be done. Fletch, what I normally do before I start to do something I've not done before is completely immerse myself into the project is by using reference materials such as READING service manuals over and over until I completely understand the process and can anticipate every obstacle that may occur, have every tool ready and be prepared. I may spend a week doing this before proceeding. You may want to do this and study the project prior to asking the questions. This has worked very well for me.

[redemn93]

yeah.  sounds like you havent really looked into how to do this.  here is a thread of mine from S&F.  read it all.  itll give some insight to those 4 long studs.  hopefully you dont have this problem but you might.  its all easy stuff.  it took me so long cause i just had limited time and didnt want to drill the plate.  but i ended up having to drill it.

http://www.screamandfly.com/showthread. ... highlight=

[Fletch170]

Now I understand, the service manual does not say anything about sequence of things that need to happen to get it apart, it simply details how to take apart each section. I failed to see the nuts on the back of the tiller bolts. Thank you for clearing that up, and taking the time to do the picture, it means a lot.

[redemn93]

np.  just go slow.  take picture.  research a lot.  good luck with it.

[GoneFission]

Some more pics from my Merc makeover thread - you can see how the powerhead comes off - note some of the bolts were corroded and I replaced them with stainless: 

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=10811.0