246 rebuild live from Delmarva!

[Callyb]

How thick is the glass? If it matches the rest of the stringers I would be tempted to leave it. However, consider the fact that the polyester will also become wet over time. That can lead to a weakened laminate... In my opinion it all depends on your ultimate goal. Option A; You don't  plan on keeping the boat and just roll with it. Option B; You don't plan on keeping the boat and you are going to loose some serious coin. Option C; You are going to keep it and you go with A. Or C....back to B.

The other thing to consider is the amount of water the foam has soaked up over time. If you push into it do you get any moisture out of it? If so, well...I think you know what needs to happen. At least your wife helps with the grinding. I wish mine would.

[4shore]

I have given serious thought to just adding more glass over top to strengthen the stringers and roll with it. Saltfly and I were looking at it this evening and we think it might have to to with the height of the stringer and the lack of contact with the deck. It didnt originally contact it due to the big splashwell? This would cause a chance for deflection of the inner face of the stringer so maybe they cored it to stiffen it up?

[RickK]

Remember that the stringers are usually made as a complete insert and glassed/glued into the hull.

[4shore]

Right. ...but what's stopping me from laying glass over the top of them? I guess I don't get where you're going with the above comment?

[RickK]

What I was thinking is the gaps or lack of contact you mentioned and how the liner is prefabbed and then set in place and may not make 100% contact.  I had some gaps where the connecting heavy cloth that connected the stringers didn't lay flat thus not bonding to the hull well.
There is nothing wrong with beefing them up with a layer or two of bi-axial.  If you really want strength go with epoxy.

[4shore]

Right where I'm standing is where the splash well started. No foam either. So all the way back to the transom was not in contact with any floor structure. It will be when I'm done though.

Next question. What is everyone's opinion of the floor scuppers that drain via Garden hose to plastic fittings on the outer hull? I feel like this entire set up is cheesy looking and asking for trouble. If either side fails it would allow water into the bilge unnoticed.

[Callyb]

Plastic thu hulls have no business under the waterline... I would change them out and install a seacock just in case you did have an issue. I would take a look here, the links in that thread have some very good info. Also the flexible schedule 40 PVC gives me a lot of confidence for below the waterline plumbing.

What Rick was referring to is this:


The red is the stringer system that is set into the hull mold and glued in. You and Salt seem to have a good plan though, tabbing the aft section in should be good to go. Just make sure you grind back to get a solid bond to the hull.

[Capt. Bob]

What is everyone's opinion of the floor scuppers that drain via Garden hose to plastic fittings on the outer hull? I feel like this entire set up is cheesy looking and asking for trouble. If either side fails it would allow water into the bilge unnoticed.

Can only speak for myself.
I liked the design, hated the access. Really haven't read where 80s era CCPs were sinking with alarming rates but then again if you feel uncomfortable in installing thru hull fittings, proper type hose and connections you would be best served with some other type drain.

You're rebuilding your hull so the fear of install doesn't seem to be a problem plus you can incorporate easy access for inspection/repair.
The concept of a displacement cockpit drainage system may only appeal to engineering types and "slope" drainage out the rear is pretty easy to do. Isn't that the type that was on your hull to begin with?

"Cheesy" look Maybe we're talking two different concepts here.

Good luck.

[saltfly]

4shore it was good to meet you and see your boat. I got into my CI 21 this morning. It had a I/O. I drilled a few small holes in the stringer were the I/O mounts were bolted to the stringer. Their was a piece of wood on both strigers in the same place you have wood. Same thickness as well. It's not an AS but most boat companies did the same thing in those days. So I think you are right on about it being done to mount a I/O if someone wanted one instead of an outboard.

As for those plastic drain fittings. I replaced the ones in my ccp when I had water in the bilge and couldn’t understand the reason for the amount of water. The one plastic thru hull was cracked on one side and the other side had a split in the hose at the deck drain. So I got a few different fittings from seabob and new renforce hose and replaced the holes system. I never liked plastic if it ends up  blow the water line. You can ask seabob where to get the type I got from him. Their so much better then the plastic ones.

[4shore]

The look of the scuppers is cool it's just the execution of it is cheap looking

[gran398]

The look of the scuppers is cool it's just the execution of it is cheap looking

Solution

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10197

[4shore]

Enjoyed meeting you and discussing things also! That's what these message boards are all about!

[4shore]

This is my prescribed lamination schedule as I see it right now. I am still very much up in the air about core material. Coosa or wood I don't know. Opinions??

I need some real input on this lamination schedule guys. As it sits now this project is gonna consume 15 gal of resin

My research has found that 1708 and 1808 consume a gallon every 4 yards and CSM is about the same. I am figuring on 12' lengths per lam so I get overlap down the hull sides( hull is 8x4 with a 26x20 cut out)

15 gal sound right for a transom???

[dirtwheelsfl]

Looks good to me. Maybe a third of that 15 gallon number though...

[4shore]

You got any calculations to back that cause the ones that were provided me say 15 gallons. I wold like to be wrong on this obviously?!