Question on plywood and other Matl's.

[saltfly]

D  you and Bob are right, using what your familiar with and doing it the right way is the best. I also think when using matl. Your use to using, you will do it right. Their has been a lot of boats rebuilt here, and they have been shared with use , so we can all learn from what others are doing and how their doing it. Thats why sites like this are important for those wanting to learn how to. I think those boats will be around and being used and enjoyed. Long after we are all gone. No more important legacy can be left, just like the original builders left for use. Which at the time using the best that was available to them.


Hey Bob, didn’t happen to find Jimmy huffa in their did you???? I know I know that was terrible. But I couldn’t help myself. :twisted:


Slvrlng thanks for that site. I book marked it. Their prices are very good. I may rethink were I’m getting my glass. See another reason this site is such a great  site.

I’m also still wondering about the man made woods and how fiberglass holds to it. i may have to do a test peice.

[seabob4]

Walt,
One composite I can certainly vouch for is Coosa board.  It behaves basically just like wood, at 1/4 to 1/3 the weight, virtually no water absorbtion.  At Proline, all our transoms were Coosa Bluewater 26, the Pro-Lite series boats, the entire cockpit sole was Bluewater 20 (kept costs down).  Excellent glass adhesion.

One of our tests when deciding to use it was to submerge a piece in a tub of saltwater for 2 weeks, weighing before and after.  No change in weight after that period.  I'd say that's a little more drastic than what the average boat might see, but it certainly was indicative of the properties of the material.  We used a piece we cut out from the middle of a 2 X 4 foot piece so the ends were not sealed in any way...

[gman 82 aquasport]

Saltfly. I agree with Lewis, I got all my woven materials at uscomposites and they were priced lower and shipped real quick, I think in all I had orderd around 3 rolls of 4in,8in,12in, glass( 1 roll each for tabbing,150 ft each) and about 30 yards total of cloth in differing weaves and weights...I also used only epoxy in my rebuild..I figure by the time it goes bad I will be ashes in the ocean and she will be someone elses baby..

[saltfly]

Gman thanks I think I may just give them a try. Their prices are very good, and when you need a lot of matl., you have to save were you can.

[gran398]

Here are the pics of a Seamark boat under construction. This is all AC fir plywood. The stringer tops will be glassed next, then the deck installed.

They use block foam for flotation.

[saltfly]

Hey Gran thanks for the pic’s. Much appreciated. They really do a good job. The block foam isn’t a bad idea. You can use it as a filler and use a little spray in foam to take up the rest of the room and hold in the blocks as well. Which will save some money in the long run. I’ve never seen that block foam soak up water. They use it under floating docks around here. Those docks last a long time as well. As for the AC fir, it looks good, I only see a few voids and they will be close up when glassed over, so water will never intrude. Using it has got to be a big cost saver and make their boats very competitively priced with know loss in strength. The like added weight will only help the ride. I remember as a kid going out on those old all wood boats. Man did they ride great. there are three boats being restored at the marina not far from me. One 42 foot Viking, one 35 foot egg harbor and the third, I’m not sure of the make,its about 38 foot. The builders name has been removed for carom plating.  Those guys are investing  a lot of money on those wooden boats. That says a lot for them.

[fishinonthebrain]

Gran, you are right. When you use to using something, and have for a long time, you become very good at using it.

callyb Now there is a point that does get pasted over once in a while. I’m not using polyester, even though all boats are built with it and it is still a good product. I’m using vinylester, which is stronger then polyester and I believe it resists water better then polyester. It cost a little more, but no were near as costly as epoxy. i almost for got. I'm also using 1708 biaxial glass. I'm getting it for $9 a yard, so I'm ordering 20 yards. I'm not using it all at once. but at that price. I'm going to get it while I can.

Just to let you know US Composites has 1708 for $6.40 yrd when you order 10-24 yrds. I finally bought a roll this week so that should get me through the bracket and any other things i still want to do.

oh well after reading on through the thread i see others have chimed in. I have ordered a lot from them and i am happy with them.

[saltfly]

Thanks fish its good to get input from others who have had dealings with a company and have good things to say about them. I'm going to put in an order with them.

[gran398]

I can't find the thread regarding Rick's question on fiberglassing AC fir plywood decking. So will post it here. Please move it to the correct thread as you see fit, thanks.

Seamark uses a single layer of 1 1/2 oz. matt underneath. Three to four layers of 1 1/2 oz matt on top.

Where the floor meets the side of the hull, and where meets any curves, knees, etc.....they use woven roving.

[RickK]

Thanks Scott, top and bottom as it pertains to a piece of plywood on it's edge?  Like you see the stringers on edge?  So 1 layer where the stringer meets the hull and 3 where it whould meet the underside of the floor?

[gran398]

Thanks Scott, top and bottom as it pertains to a piece of plywood on it's edge?  Like you see the stringers on edge?  So 1 layer where the stringer meets the hull and 3 where it whould meet the underside of the floor?

Just to be exact, speaking of the actual deck (floor).

One layer of mat applied to the deck underneath where it rests on top of the stringers.

Then three layers of mat applied to the TOP of the deck, where the deck it is exposed to the elements. Then sprayed gel. So you will mount your console to three layers of mat over AC fir plywood, then sprayed gel, then a final coat of nonskid in the final (second) coat of finish gel outside of the console.

Where the deck meets the sides, and ANY curves, risers etc. there on the deck...join/strengthen with roving during the deck install.

[RickK]

I gotcha. That makes sense now.

[kaptainkoz]

Does anyone have any experience with Greenwood Ply Dek XL from Overtons? Its a kiln dried, pressure treated marine ply that supposedly you can glass to. I googled it to see what real people had to say about in in post and blogs. Everyone seems to rave about it but it is not clear in anything I have found if they are heavily glassing it like when using it for a floor. The cost is quite affordable at about $90 a board plus about $20 to get it here. Marine ply locally is about $100 a board (3/4) and its not pressure treated. Im looking at it to do the floor of my 1979 246 CCP. I want to close off the transom and install a bracket but for that i am sold on SeaCast pourable transom as i want it to be 2 inches thick  where the bracket bolts are and then 1 inch where its fairly decorative wello above the water line. Not to get off topic, does anyone have any experience with the Greenwood Ply Dek XL? Will vinylester resin hold to it well for use as a floor?

[wingtime]

I figured it is just something Overton's is selling...  I assume this is the company who makes it:

http://www.greenwoodproducts.com/store/marine-plywood/plydek.html

[gran398]

Marine vs. Exterior:

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/marine ... PRDo1LiETA

Tried to find the average moisture content of AC fir....the product from Overton's seems high on the moisture content