1987 Aquasport CCP222

[gran398]

WOW X2.

VERY impressive. Pros can't take the time to get a job like this

[fishinonthebrain]

Thanks Gran.

Here is my next mold to build. A console designed after a Mako that was sitting over at Bas Pro shops. What a nice looking boat. Then I added a seat and raised the console 4" for a toe kick. The toe kick was added not just for the toes but to hide the install led lights.

[gran398]

Nice!

You will like the toe-kick. Makes for a really clean install too, since its screwed to the deck from inside.

Guess you'll core it?

[dburr]

That is some piece of cabinetry!!!!    Wow!!

In the picture the corners on the bump for the live well do not look like they have been radiused yet is that just because of the picture angle?

As an after thought what about making a flange on the vertical side of the new face to give you a tab surface that is molded to the new piece? That would give you a surface to glue direct to the liner and then you can tab over that to make that whole joint stronger.  Added step and more time but it might make for easier fairing in the boat because you would not be fairing in the corner but "on the flat"..

[seabob4]

The Radio Flyer wagon seals the deal...  

[fishinonthebrain]

Nice!

You will like the toe-kick. Makes for a really clean install too, since its screwed to the deck from inside.

Guess you'll core it?

Yes your right I plan to make a flange on the floor to attach the console down. I will need to core a good bit of the console because I want to attach the t-top directly to the console not the deck.

[fishinonthebrain]

That is some piece of cabinetry!!!!    Wow!!

In the picture the corners on the bump for the live well do not look like they have been radiused yet is that just because of the picture angle?

As an after thought what about making a flange on the vertical side of the new face to give you a tab surface that is molded to the new piece? That would give you a surface to glue direct to the liner and then you can tab over that to make that whole joint stronger.  Added step and more time but it might make for easier fairing in the boat because you would not be fairing in the corner but "on the flat"..

After I screwed the two pieces together I did notice I missed routing the radius. Good eye! The first thing I have to do is take the two pieces apart. Not too big of a deal.

The vertical form overlaps the existing liner by a few inches so the fairing will be done on a flat area. Another good point though.  

[fishinonthebrain]

The Radio Flyer wagon seals the deal...  

My sons been looking for that wagon. Have to keep that quite.  

[kaptainkoz]

The transom mold is coming out sweet! Your a few months ahead of me with a similar layout so its nice to see it happen before I take a stab at it. Looks awesome cant wait to see more progress.

[CLM65]

Man that looks great!  Awesome job!

[fishinonthebrain]

Thanks guys for the positive support.

I have been working on the outside of transom prepping it for gelcoat and prepping this transom cap mold all last weekends thru the week after work and all this weekend. Been taking lots of pictures so I should have a good progress report maybe tomorrow night or early next week.

[fishinonthebrain]

As promised been working on this segment since last weekend. Even took a couple days off during the week to get this part of the project going.

Took form apart routed some more edges, formed clay radius, re-primed, 5 coats of wax and three coats of peel ply.





Sprayed multiple coats of straight gelcoat no duratec additive. Of course every bug in town had to visit.

[fishinonthebrain]

Screwed the two forms back together and started to form the clay radius.





Simple easy way to sculpt the clay with a socket and extension then wipe it again with your finger and presto perfect radius.

[fishinonthebrain]

1 layer of 3/4oz. CS, 4 layers of 1708, then 4 additional layers at turn up of 8" wide 1708.





Then two layers of 3/4" Coosa at turn up for rod holder support and two layers of Nidacore to flush out the bottom of the live well gutter so the live well mount and seal.



I will go back and add two more layers of 1708 over Coosa and Nidacore.

[fishinonthebrain]

Flipped form on its side to work on other side.





Filled cracks and ends of nidacore with thickened vinyle ester/ cabosil. Then 4 layers of 1708 over everything. In the bump out for the live well I added 1 layer of Nidacore and 1 layer of 1708.






We had a front come thru last night... ... so to speed up cure I added a tent and halogen light for heat.