1986 19'6"

[gran398]

Yours has a liner too, the walls are just tight to the hull sides. The deck, walls, and casting platform are one big U-shaped part that drops on top of the stringers. Then the gunnel cap is put on, screwing everything together.

When removed, what is left looks like this

[nicklucas]

thank you for the help.

 Bought the boat originaly just planning to rebuild it but was able to get it running, and got some use out of it.  The floor in the boat is done(when i say done I mean trash). Trailer broke the other day.  Already purchased a new trailer.  So within the next couple of weeks plan on getting the motor off, transfering the boat to new trailer then gutting the whole thing.  The final plan is to close in the transom new floor porta bracket power pole ext. fishing machine.  Before this boat i had a 17ft maverick that was a good shallow boat but when it came to runnin across open water was a very wet boat.   Wasnt sure if I was going to like this hull (originaly wanted a 222) but the old flats boat was sold to a friend and when out on the water a couple months ago this boat was floating just as shallow as the old one.   I will have alot of questions for everyone as I have zero fiberglass experiance but no what i want in the final product.   So as long as I can make it strong if I have to put Twice as much effort into making it look smooth and clean in the end thats fine with me.

im pretty new to the sight as well. me and my dad are rebuilding a 222 CCP and we have never done fiberglass work we just winged it and it turned out super strong. we watched that ship shape tv show and it helped us a lot

[florida196]

Ya ship shape tv gave me a lot of advice to been watching that show since I was 14 probably everything on my boat seems strong I just don't want to go strap a new motor on it and put it back in the water for the first time ( which will probably be the happiest day of my life) and have anything bad happen.  Sure I'm just paranoid but still in back of my head.

[SaltH2OHokie]

Yours has a liner too, the walls are just tight to the hull sides. The deck, walls, and casting platform are one big U-shaped part that drops on top of the stringers. Then the gunnel cap is put on, screwing everything together.

When removed, what is left looks like this

Rock on.  Ain't a lot of beef in either piece (hull nor liner)...can push my hull-sides in and watch them flex...but...

Reminds me of my beloved Bayliner 195 "Classic".  Bought it from a repo-auction for next to nothing and ran the living poo poo out of that boat while living at the beach for a summer in college.  We left out of Oregon Inlet one day on a hard NE wind and when we "cleared the bar" we were in for a surprise.  In my youthful exuberance to get to our intended diving/spearfishing wreck, I had that little 3.0L Mercruiser humming along waaay faster than I should have.  Hit a very healthy vertical wall of water, went airborne for what felt like an hour, and when we landed, I defecate you negative, I saw the beam of the boat change from 6' to 7' to 6' then back PAST 7' and finally settled out back somewhere near her original beam.  The whole boat sort of crumped up and straightened back out on landing.  Motor cover was wedged up between at the walk-thru windshield, both sides of "bolster panels" ripped off of the sides of the gunnels, the hinged section of windshield had fallen thru the "walk-thru" gap (and it had like a 1"+ lip that kept it from going through, which means gap widened by at least an inch between the two side consoles).  Dive gear was everywhere, my buddy was on top of me, both of us on the starboard side of the boat since that was the direction it was trying barrel roll.  All in all what you could describe as 'crazy'.

Point of that long winded story:  That cheap boat got beat on like a rented mule for an entire summer (awesome way to live, by the way...) and it never broke apart.  From then on I've had a lot of faith in fiberglass, however thin and rinky-dink as it may seem...  

[gran398]

NEAT story!! Have some tales like that involving my old wooden Simmons....

Ryan, you ought to hook up with all of us this fall at the reunion!

[florida196]

Great story.  I remember when I was a kid my dad bought an old hydra sport off some guy that was sitting on his boat life for 10 plus years for 1000 dollars.  Then all he did was put a new hydraulic sterling system on it and buy a new trailer and hang a brand new Yamaha 225 fourstroke on the back.  Boat was garbage soft spots and all.  I remember running offshore on the weekends and just watching the transom bounce with that new motor on it just looking like it was going to rip off.  BUT never did.

[florida196]

Little bit of progress done.  First two bulk heads built and covered with one layer of 1708 then tabbed in with two layers all the way around.  Rigging tubes set it place not permanent yet.  Will not be able to use sweeps to come up under console.  Did not leave myself enough room and the sweeps will be to far forward.  Anyways couple photos don't mind all the dust everywhere.

[Capt. Bob]

I slightly confused.
Where does your console sit in relation to the forward bulkhead?

[florida196]

If you look at the stringer where the old wiring trough is still cut through.  The back of the console should sit within an 1" or 2 were that forward bulkhead ends.  But I want my rigging tubes to come up in the back of the console as I would like to have all my batteries to the front.  The sweeps just extend to far forward.

[Capt. Bob]

It's hard for me to see and you mentioned the tubes are not "permanently" attached so...

Can you not trim the tube aft of the bulkhead, then slide the sweep through the bulk head and then attach?

Might need to enlarge the bulk head hole just a small amount. Get the sweep in position under the console, then trim the tube to length.

[florida196]

Ya your absolutely right capt. Bob I think what I need to do is go find and purchase the console for the boat that way I can set it up where I like it then adjust the rigging tubes from there.  Have do that before I continue building the tank coffin though or else I'll never Beable to get the tubes out.

[florida196]

Question for you guys.  I did not build up my skin before laying the new transom up.  If you look at the picture u can see the low spot where the new transom sits vs. the old skin.  My question is should I try and build up this low spot with glass or when the boat gets painted which I've decided I'm going to have done by the proffesionals have them build it up with fairing compound or ect.

[fishinonthebrain]

I would build it up with glass as much as you can then fair it out. if you don't you could end up with lots of cracks from all the filler used.

I had the same issue and I filled the area in with glass then faired even though I have not posted it in my thread yet.  

[florida196]

Deffinatly a no brainer when you put it like that the last thing I want is cracking.  Question now is when building it up do I need to overlap onto existing skin where I'm already level at or just build up the low areas.  Basically do I need to worry about strength here or is it mainly cosmetics

[fishinonthebrain]

I placed full sheets across filled transom cut out and made them consecutively smaller so the overlap was minimal. Then grinded off what I didn't need so it was as smooth as I could get it. Then faired it out. I did not care if I ground into layers of fiberglass I was just trying to achieve a flat uniform surface to fair on. I will post some pictures on my thread of what I did.