Full Transom Question

[ftac03]

Some time ago I found a thread that had a post with link to transom replacement with epoxy, polyester, and vinylester resin. Does anyone know where I could find this thread?

[Capt. Bob]

Some time ago I found a thread that had a post with link to transom replacement with epoxy, polyester, and vinylester resin. Does anyone know where I could find this thread?

You got to give me a little more to work on. A few full transom rebuilds here.

Hull type?

[ftac03]

There was a post on a thread which had three links to transom rebuilds. One link was for an epoxy rebuild, and one was for polyester rebuild, and the third was for a vinylester resin rebuild.

I think I understand the process pretty well for cutting out the old transom and using a melamine board to for the new skin. What is the preferred method for attaching the melamine board to the hull?

[RickK]

Are you cutting the transom out of the boat? If so, leave a 2" lip around the edge and you can screw the melamine to that.  Hawgleg has examples in his FB rebuild (first one that comes to mind).
If you're not cutting out the transom then you can clamp the melamine to the back of the transom and use it to build up the laminations.

[jerryh3]

Are you cutting the transom out of the boat? If so, leave a 2" lip around the edge and you can screw the melamine to that.  Hawgleg has examples in his FB rebuild (first one that comes to mind).
If you're not cutting out the transom then you can clamp the melamine to the back of the transom and use it to build up the laminations.

If you do the first option do you bevel the edges of the outer skin before laying up the new glass?  Would you need to cut out the entire inner skin of the transom and a couple inches of the cap/liner to tab in the new transom core?

[mshugg]

Yes,  You would feather the outer lip before laying in additional layers.  Is your outer skin in bad shape?  If it's in good shape, you'll probably be better off working from the inside. 

The inner skin on my 200 CCP was eggshell thin.  The outer skin was significantly thicker.  I think that it would be easier to get a structurally sound transom keeping the outside skin.

[Capt. Bob]

There was a post on a thread which had three links to transom rebuilds. One link was for an epoxy rebuild, and one was for polyester rebuild, and the third was for a vinylester resin rebuild.

Well, I'm at a loss here. The link below shows my links to two CCP rebuilds. Koz's is vinyl, I believe JD's is epoxy(?) and Fish used poly(?) but you would need to read through them to be sure.

First two.

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=11961.msg120173#msg120173

Third link.

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=11961.msg120205#msg120205

[RickK]

I agree with mshugg. If the transom is straight and flat, use it.
You will need to cut your stringers and liner/cap back about 18" so you have room to work and make some strong 12" laminations.  When you cut the portions out do it carefully so you can re-use them when done rebuilding the transom.

There isn't an easy way to preserve the inside transom skin unless you dig the inside of the transom out, say with a chain saw. And then it's only of value if you pour the transom. Otherwise I would cut kerfs into the transom making strips, using a circular saw with a disposable blade. Then use an air chisel to start peeling the strips off the transom skin - goes pretty fast with an air chisel with long chisel.

[ftac03]

My questions for the day is this;

My transom is in pretty good shape and solid except for the area around the drain plug. I would like to convert to a full transom. It seems like it would be easier to cut the entire old transom out and glass in a new outside skin. As opposed to removing the inside skin, removing the plywood core,  then building up a full transom. What do you think the best way to attack this would be?

[RickK]

I guess you could use a chain saw but it might be more work than you think. You'd still have to dig out the areas that you left as a lip plus remove the inner liner stub. The chain will be toast when you're done.

[mshugg]

If your stringers are sound and well attached, you can certainly remove the outside skin and replace core from the outside.  You could even try digging out the damaged area near the garboard drain and just recore that area from the outside.  Of course you may find more damage than you expect.  Are you going for a dfull height transom? Are you going to going to use a bracket?  If you are, you'll probably need to beef up your transom anyway.  Armstrong requires a minimum of 2" for their up to 250HP bracket.  My CCP barely had 1.5". The liner makes thetransom look thicker than it is, so you can't trust themeasurent at the top of the transom.