new 222 rebuild

[Shine]

Asymmetry makes it interesting... boat will look fine.  Better to have it the way you want it.

Agreed, glassed in the port side, now just have to round the stbd. sides with the router (once the thickened epoxy cures)

[Shine]

We are building the casting deck.  The longitudinal supports are 1/2" Divinycell with 1708 on each side, they are taped into the boat with 12 oz biax and epoxy.

This picture shows the supports just tabbed into place.  We next make a fillet, let it tack up, then come right back "wet on wet" with the biax tape and marinepoxy.





I know its overkill, but the supports are double taped (offset seams)......



Here are the two pieces that will be the casting deck....



Here the top skin of the casting deck has been laminated.  Again its over kill, but we went with 2 layers 1708 for top skin.  Bottom skin will be just one.  The great thing about using composites (foam core/honeycomb/epoxy)  is that you don't mind adding extra weight in strategic places, because you have saved weight in others.  

In other words I would rather have added weight in fuel capacity/bait well capacity, and thicker deck skins  :)



We also are working on a mold for drain channels that will make our hatches waterproof.  Its something will eventually sell - this is something that will save a lot of time.

Joel

[gw204]

Ain't nothin' wrong with overkill!!!!  

Looks good!   :)

[Shine]

I bet you guys forgot about me :)

The casting deck is down, and we are fitting the deck.  Next we have to build the coming, cut a few more hatches (transom and anchor locker), then its glassing in the console and leaning post.  

[JimCt]

Figured you had some secret proprietary operations going on...

Looking good!

[Shine]

Gluing up strip of 1/2" Renicell foam to make long coming strips for gunnels. Aluminum straight edges keep parts fair - very important for gunnels!   We keep a few aluminum extrusions around for straight edges, they are the inexpensive screen porch parts from the home store.  



Used the sander to make recess so the the fiberglass joint is level with foam - keeps fairing to a minimum.  



Use plastic to keep the epoxy off your tools and a clean/flat surface

[Shine]

making a foam core "box" to hide the fuel fill and vent hose running up the gunnels......

cut the foam to shape - this is H80 Divinycell 1/2"


use finish nails or tooth picks to hold it to shape (in more critical parts you would take more care for squareness)


make a fillet on the inside (epoxy/woodflour fillet)


working "wet on wet", lay glass into part (fillet is still tacky).  we just used scrap cloth on the inside and then scrap 17 oz Biax ont he out side




After the inside glass stiffened up, we turn it over, remove nails , round the corner of the foam using a Stanly sureform plane, then glass the outside skin.  Also added some fairing after the out side tacked up.  And here you have your box....

[Shine]

Also made a bunch of these babies ...

Its 18 lb foam with biax tape.  



made them up in a "mold".  Im going to use them to support the deck in critical areas (between the frames)  they glue up very nice into corners with thickened epoxy - I just really hate trying to glass up side down which woudl have been the alternative.

[warthog5]

Glad your at it again. :)

[Shine]

I know :!:   I want this project finished soon.  

Building/fitting the new deck has been the most trouble of anything.  For time and money on material, I would have been better off buying another junker 222  just to cannibalize the cap

The only plus is that there will not be another one like her.  The hull to deck joint is going to be very smooth.   The camber in the deck towards the bow is very pretty, I cant wait to get some primer on it so its apparent in pictures.

[JimCt]

Junker 222?
No such thing.

What foam are you using for core?  Looks like something I should be using for the 240.

[Shine]

H80 Divinycell (blue colored foam) on frames, deck, casting deck, stringers, transom bulkhead.  

We used some Nidacore (sole, and the anchor locker bulkhead, and those little rod holder frames above the sole) .

For transom and the coming we use Renicell (from DIAB the maker of Divinycell) is much more dense and it used in high compression spot.  Renicell is the light green color foam

[JimCt]

OK, thanks!  Will investigate if locally available.

[Shine]

another long break between posts.  We have been making very small steps lately.  Only been able to put in an hour or two here and there.

The deck is secured and ready to be glassed to the hull.  I made a mold (simple piece of plastic with release wax) for 90 degree composite "braces" it nothing more than triangles of transom foam, 1.5", and layers of 12 oz biax tape.  They are very stiff.  I used epoxied those braces/brackets to the deck/sides and to the frames to secure the deck permanently in place, while we fill the joint.  I posted a picture of those braces just a few post before this one.

We ground back the foam core of the deck and back filled with thickened epoxy(there is tape underneath to keep it all from squeezing out).  We used some cheap/thin plywood as a mold to get the shape just right.  later I will come back with a round over bit and make a radius for the glass tape - that will glass the hull to the deck.  









After spending way too much time looking for three perfect size and decent looking hatches for the rear of the boat - I just decided to follow Warts advise and make them.  they are going to look so much better, and I really wanted to get the largest size access hole and still give 3"+ around the framing.



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[LilRichard]

Shine- work looks good- I can't wait to see this one come togehter.

When you're done with the molds, are you going to use them for something, or would they be for sale?  I could use a few hatches like the middle one you're building... let me know please.