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Author Topic: new 222 rebuild  (Read 77407 times)

July 25, 2007, 01:57:08 PM
Reply #225

Shine

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« Reply #225 on: July 25, 2007, 01:57:08 PM »
Quote from: "JimCt"
Polyester.


By itself polyester is very hard and can be brittle, add silica and there is almost no elongation or "give".  Milled glass or chopped strands of glass can make it hold together better (picture re-bar in concrete) and aggregate woudl be like the milled fibers.  Alone, cement cracks very easy same with polyester resin.

You might try wood flour or milled cotton in your polyester fillets - much easier to smooth out vs. chopped glass

 :D

July 25, 2007, 03:06:37 PM
Reply #226

JimCt

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« Reply #226 on: July 25, 2007, 03:06:37 PM »
Will do.  Still have a lot of filling & filleting to do on the 240... apparently an endless project.
JimCT
------
\'74 22-2 inboard
HIN:ASPL0953M74J
Chrysler 318
------
\'74 Marshall 22

July 27, 2007, 10:30:29 AM
Reply #227

Shine

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« Reply #227 on: July 27, 2007, 10:30:29 AM »
"rough" fairing has begun on the deck.  We will move to Quick Fair soon.  (Quick Fair is a pre-mixed epoxy based fairing compound).

While the fairing compound is still relatively soft, you can use a sure form tool to take off the really high spots - this saves a of of time and energy vs. sanding.  Our fairing mix is a blend of Phenolic Micro Balloons, glass bubbles, and fumed silica.



The we move to some profiles with 40 grit, no need to be shy at this point  :D








July 27, 2007, 06:02:03 PM
Reply #228

RickK

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« Reply #228 on: July 27, 2007, 06:02:03 PM »
Good tips. 8)
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

July 31, 2007, 12:22:30 PM
Reply #229

captdave

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« Reply #229 on: July 31, 2007, 12:22:30 PM »
She looks good man... I think you posted on Fs forum about my boat the 1977 222 it was a seafoam green, give me a call if you have any questions about weight and so forth. dave 941-705-1327

August 03, 2007, 10:23:08 AM
Reply #230

Shine

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« Reply #230 on: August 03, 2007, 10:23:08 AM »
Yes, that was me on the FSFF asking about the sole measurement.  

just more fairing of the deck, expect to hear a lot about fairing  :D  :? in the future...









Im thinking about this for the rubrail.  Stainless with vinyl insert and backing to absorb shock - no dents.  I may be able to match the color of the insert with th non-skid color 8)


August 09, 2007, 01:17:26 PM
Reply #231

Shine

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« Reply #231 on: August 09, 2007, 01:17:26 PM »
More faring work and some work on the  hatch lip mold.

Rolled on a thin coat of epoxy tinted with blue pigment, let cure, sanded with 60 grit.  We later applied coat of white primer.  After the primer dries we will sand it and the high spots will stand out (dark).





Rolled extra primer onto the boat.  You can never be sure how fair your surface is until you get an even white coat on.  The majority of this primer will be sanded off and then will go back to quickfair to fill in what needs more filling.  Quick Fair is epoxy, the primer is epoxy, there is no problem going over the primer with the quick fair  :)

It looks real nice.....






Until you get this close  :shock:  :shock:  :shock:  Just need more work and it will be prefect  :)



Look at the sides of the boat (between the frames).  You will notice for the first fairing we used a mix of our blended filler and Marinepoxy - its the dark purple/brown surface.  



After sanding the first fairing, we go to Quick Fair, QF is the light tan material.  There is nothing wrong with using QF on the entire surface. We just like to get the big areas filled with our own blend, then save the QF for the last.  QF is better than what you can mix yourself.




August 10, 2007, 11:19:41 AM
Reply #232

Shine

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« Reply #232 on: August 10, 2007, 11:19:41 AM »
"dusted" the port side deck with quick dry spray primer (over the white primer from the day before).  





Using a 30" fairing board, we sand the deck exposing the highs and lows.  If you do not use a long board, you will just sand the highs lower and also sand the lows lower.  The idea is that the long board spans over the lows and only removes from the highs.  If you are to have any shot at a perfect finish, you should use a fairing board.  We sell the one we use (3M hook and loop), or you can build a less fancy one from thin plywood (do a search of the forum to find the thread where we show how to do this)

This is the very same spot as we showed yesterday.  (BEFORE)



(AFTER)



you can now "read" the surface as you would a topographical map  :) The very high spots are where you see fairing and/or glass (far left side of picture).  The large spot in the middle where you can still see the gray spray primer mist is the low spot.  The plain white is where we sanded just enough off to remove the spray primer.  Next we will fill the lows with more Quick Fair

Also did more work on the hatch lip mold.  Basically we are fairing it in the same way as the deck.  With the low angle shot you can really see the highs and lows.  The mold will require more work until its good enough to pull parts from...





These are the hatch covers, now being faired - they are about finished, next step will be primer.  I am so glad I did not go the pre-made hatch route.  These babies are going to be slick

[/img]

August 10, 2007, 03:17:41 PM
Reply #233

scott_gunn

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« Reply #233 on: August 10, 2007, 03:17:41 PM »
Do you plan on making these hatch covers and other such parts available for purchase from BoatBuilderCentral?

I could see a niche market for things such as hatch covers, livewells, enclosed transoms, etc. that you have molds for.

August 10, 2007, 03:39:13 PM
Reply #234

Shine

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« Reply #234 on: August 10, 2007, 03:39:13 PM »
We may sell them, if for no other reason than to help pay for the labor of what we have in the boat so far.  We do not want to become a composite manufacturer.   :wink:

I can tell you this, I would have paid for them  :D  I could not find anyone who sells such an item.  

Will probably make them from Biax and vinyester, then glue them with epoxy glue.  Miter a 90 degree for the turns - or make one mold of a 90 degree turn and use it for all the corners, dont know yet.

JOEL

August 10, 2007, 06:52:31 PM
Reply #235

LilRichard

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« Reply #235 on: August 10, 2007, 06:52:31 PM »
Shine, I will take a set of hatches... seriously.  Let's chat.

August 10, 2007, 10:18:49 PM
Reply #236

JimCt

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« Reply #236 on: August 10, 2007, 10:18:49 PM »
With all these projects coming along we all seem to have backed into practically resurrecting a somewhat dispersed classic Aquasport factory.

Progress looks great from here Shine!  Let me know when to ship a set of 22-2 badges down.
JimCT
------
\'74 22-2 inboard
HIN:ASPL0953M74J
Chrysler 318
------
\'74 Marshall 22

August 16, 2007, 11:06:22 AM
Reply #237

Shine

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« Reply #237 on: August 16, 2007, 11:06:22 AM »
Quote from: "LilRichard"
Shine, I will take a set of hatches... seriously.  Let's chat.


They are just drains/lips.  The hatches are the cut out.  If you want some drain/lip lengths, I can send you some.  Lets see how mine turn out first :D

We are are bale to spend a few hours on the fairing yesterday and today.  Does not look much different in pictures, but its getting smooth  8)

I think Im going to put her on the trailer next week.  Then we are going to glass down the leaningpost/live well and the console.

August 16, 2007, 01:56:38 PM
Reply #238

LilRichard

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« Reply #238 on: August 16, 2007, 01:56:38 PM »
Quote from: "Shine"
They are just drains/lips.  The hatches are the cut out.  If you want some drain/lip lengths, I can send you some.  Lets see how mine turn out first :D


Understood.  I can easily make myself some lids.  PM me with some details please...

August 22, 2007, 05:06:58 PM
Reply #239

Shine

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« Reply #239 on: August 22, 2007, 05:06:58 PM »
back on the trailer...



Put the console in the boat, just for a picture...


 


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