246 rebuild live from Delmarva!

[4shore]

Koz you and I are like minded across the board on this one. I think the core should be tabbed in as a unit.

Thanks for the reply on the pm. I am still trying to figure out what I want to do with that dead space behind the tank coffin. I really like what u did with yours. If you can shoot me the photos/ info on those molds I will be sure to get you my photos/info on my transom

I thought you were gonna do a SeaCast poured transom?

[saltfly]

I would tab in at each layer. All so fill between the akoma on the transom and the gunnels. Any air gap will allow condensation to build up in the air pockets. Just my thoughts.

[4shore]

SaltFly,

I have filleted the edges all the way around and laid thickened resin down between each layer with a 3/8" notched trowel. This should be sufficient I would think. Opinions?

[kaptainkoz]

Koz you and I are like minded across the board on this one. I think the core should be tabbed in as a unit.

Thanks for the reply on the pm. I am still trying to figure out what I want to do with that dead space behind the tank coffin. I really like what u did with yours. If you can shoot me the photos/ info on those molds I will be sure to get you my photos/info on my transom

I thought you were gonna do a SeaCast poured transom?

I'll get you a more detailed play by play for the molds in the next few days. And yes, I am definitely going pourable transom for many reasons.

[4shore]

Ok let me try to do a photo update here since I've been slacking n that department

Cutting the stringer back on both sides about 2'

[4shore]

Transom torn out. The CSM that you see on the port side was ground out after the photo.

[4shore]

Used Popsicle sticks bought from the local craft store and hot glued them together to get a profile of the inside of the transom. Then used this profile to trace out that shape to a piece of 1/4" door skin. We will use this door skin throughout the transom project to cut out the 3 core pieces, the tabbing,and the full sheets of glass .

[4shore]

This is the door skin template cutout and installed to test fit it and drill the holes for the all thread that will be used to clamp down the transom.

The small wooden blocks were hot glued across the transom to then hot glue Popsicle sticks across them to pick up the curve of the transom. That curve was then transcribed to the clamps so when we tighten it down it would retain that curve

[4shore]

Wife grinding and digging out the old transom. Choose your women wisely fellas!!!!!

[4shore]

Motor cutout done on template. Ended up being around 3' wide. This should be wide enough to facilitate hydraulic steering.

[4shore]

Inside clamping

[dburr]

A picture is worth a 1000 words.... Now I understand how you used the Popsicle sticks to create a pattern.. Similar idea, a tad more creative, but the end result is the same.. From the looks of it the fit turned out relly well!

[4shore]

Outside clamping. That is not an optical illusion. That 3/4" okoume is so damn stiff it was deflecting a clamp that was made up of two 2x4's and an 8' long section of steel hat channel!!

Needless to say I felt that with that type of pressure kerfing the core was a necessity.

[4shore]

Cores cut out then round the edges and hot coat with thinned resin

[4shore]

First layer of okoume pressed in and then waited a few days and released the clamps.
The stray white fibers you see are not sections of poorly wetted out glass they are just stray fibers that found their way onto the core.