RickK's 170 rebuild

[RickK]

I did the lipstick on the seal thing and it helped. I routed out the offending grooves some more and it was a nice fit on both hatch covers.
This weekend I figured I could "cover" the honeycomb on the small hatch and cover the exposed jasper board with just one layer of 3/4oz mat.  I did this with epoxy and it was pretty chilly for that stuff - was in the high 50s/low 60s.




Here is the result before cleaning it up.




The end result was that the big hatch fit fine with the added layer (the reason I had to trim back the glass was so it set flush laying on the receiver), the little hatch did not 
Seems that it was tight enough without the added glass so I had to cut it all back out.  Then I filled the honeycomb level with the top of the honeycomb (bottom of cut) with epoxy - it might be hard tomorrow.

I also planned out and marked the scupper hole(s) locations and bought another hole saw for those.   

Next weekend I should be able to tab in the liner and possibly glue and glass in the transom liner (if I don't have to puppy sit  :rolleyes: ).

[dirtwheelsfl]

Heatlamps or putting the resin bottle on one of my aluminum boats is usually what i do in the morning.   Along with trying to work in the sun.   I look at resin temps with a lil infrared temp gun too.     Working under a cover should keep nighttime condensation off too...

[RickK]

I thought about putting it out in the sun after it mixed up like thick syrup.  Seems the hardener was the thick stuff.  Changed to FCGI resin.

[RickK]

I was able to tab in the liner today - a fillet and 2 layers of 1208




After I routed the groove in the back of the hatch I realized it went through or at least enough to see right through the honeycomb top to bottom.  So a little creative taping and I mixed up some thickened epoxy and packed it in and filled up the gap and also a little of the holes I had drilled/ground for the lid handles.  Then I spent a couple hours with a dremel carving it just right - much better then I had done the first time and it's all epoxy, where it had been poly before.





Next weekend I'll drill the scupper holes and then glue and tab in the transom liner and cabinets.  My custom "net" for the front hatch is ready and will ship on Monday.  If I get that this week I can install the net and then tab in the casting deck too  8)

[RickK]

For the drains through the transom I was going to install a 1" ID piece of PVC and bed it in epoxy to seal the wood in the transom.  I am using 1" ID because it is the standard plug size. I have a question about scupper covers for the aft side of the transom - seems like most are all 2+". Is that normal to have a smaller drain going through the scupper flap?  I can see where the flap would seal off the 1" drain coming through, if it's a 2" flap.

[Capt. Bob]

I'll guess.

It gives more surface area for the rubber flap to seal against adjacent to the 1" opening.

[CLM65]

I agree with CB.  Is the flap just to keep water out from wave action or when launching it?  Or will your scuppers be underwater occasionally?  Just wondering how effective these would be compared to scupper balls....

Lookin good btw

[Capt. Bob]

Because of its reduced length, I feel the flap is a cleaner look but it comes with a price.

The rubber degrades over time becoming brittle and worn. Even when new, the sealing quality can be easily compromised by small pieces of debris like leaves, fish parts and an errant chunk of "extra crispy"  lost while snackin'. I'm not sure how well the ball type handles these things but it seems a number of members have switched over.

It's food for thought, literally.

[RickK]

I am hoping I raised the deck enough so that this is a moot point.

[Aaron43]

We put these in a boat last year, they seem to work well...http://www.thmarine.com/products/Aeration-and-Plumbing/Drain-Fittings/Scupper-Drains/Recessed-Flapper-Scupper-Drains

[CLM65]

That is similar to what I plan to put in mine.  I figure I can add the ping pong ball version over that if needed.  But like Rick, I'm hoping the deck height makes this a non-issue.

[RickK]

We put these in a boat last year, they seem to work well...http://www.thmarine.com/products/Aeration-and-Plumbing/Drain-Fittings/Scupper-Drains/Recessed-Flapper-Scupper-Drains

I think that type might be for someone that has a full transom and two drain holes? Aaron don't you have a drain hole in the front of your transom enclosure and then it is plumbed to something like this?
Mine is still an open transom so I couldn't use this type.  The PVC will accomplish what I need on the inside.
I'm thinking something like this  http://www.ebay.com/bhp/boat-scupper
or this  http://www.thmarine.com/products/Aeration-and-Plumbing/Drain-Fittings/Scupper-Drains/Flush-Mount-Scupper-Valve-Assembly
The chrome ones you have Aaron look nice if they are just covers like the ones above.

[Aaron43]

U are right....didnt even consider the differences in the transoms...mine has the cockpit drains plumbed to the scuppers...

[RickK]

Yesterday I glued in the transom liner - thickened epoxy troweled onto the inside of the transom and then some poly based bonding putty on the top of the transom where the aft side of the transom intersects. I built some smaller clamps and clamped the liner to the transom.








Did the grinding along the liner.  Ready for fairing.


Went out this morning and cleaned it all up and ground where needed.  I also cut the 1208 cloth to tab everything together. I ran out of cabosil so tomorrow I'll run out and get some more so I can make the fillets and then tie it all together.

[dirtwheelsfl]