1966 22-2 Diver Rebuild

[Callyb]

It'll be interesting to see if the 2oz resin per sq ft for 1708 ballpark falls within your method's calculations.

Yes, actually. 1 yard of 1708, 50 inches wide is 12.5 square feet which weighs 25 oz (17 oz of biax and 08 oz of mat per yard). 12.5 x 2 = 25, which equals 2.0 ounces of resin per square foot. The reason I prefer to measure is because it is sometimes difficult to figure out your exact square footage of a given piece and that means wasted resin. Please don't take it the wrong way Rick, I don't mean anything other than I just prefer the way I do it.

What did you make the fairing compound from?

It is US Composites fairing blend. Honestly Quick fair is my prefered fairing compound because it sands so easy, but I have about half a bucket of this stuff, so why not use it up? I mean who doesn't like sanding?

As far as the console height goes, I really like the look of a higher console so I will be adding the height and will be at 48 inches high once it is all said and done.

Talk to you later.

[RickK]

You gave us exactly what we needed - a comparison and both seem to be equal. Gives everyone choices. Thanks.
So, some questions - do you pour the batch on top of all 3 layers and work it through or do it one layer at a time and stack it up?  When done, do you lay all 3 layers on the area at once or peel it apart and lam them one at a time?
Still learning here.  

Only reason I'm keeping my console the same height is so I don't have to buy another cover for the boat.

Looks good  

[RickK]

It is US Composites fairing blend. Honestly Quick fair is my prefered fairing compound because it sands so easy, but I have about half a bucket of this stuff, so why not use it up? I mean who doesn't like sanding?

I know I'm going to have a lot of it  
So is their blend a powder you mix with your resin?  I can't use any epoxy based fairing compounds because I'm going to gelcoat so I might have to create my own - I heard 50% talc, 30% balloons and 20% wood flour is a nice easy mixture to sand.

[Callyb]

So, some questions - do you pour the batch on top of all 3 layers and work it through or do it one layer at a time and stack it up? When done, do you lay all 3 layers on the area at once or peel it apart and lam them one at a time?

I wet them out one at a time. However, after the first layer I wet out the next on top of the first and so on. As I add layers I use a laminate roller before I add resin to the top (dry) layer to get any excess resin pushed out from between the layers. Then I will add resin to that layer and work it in and repeat the process again. Once all of the layers are wet out I roll them entire lamination up (on the larger pieces I'll roll from both ends so that I can work from the middle out) and place it as one piece.

I hope that makes sense...

Also, I posted this link over in Capt. Koz's thread. It is time lapse, so there is some key parts missing. It may help supplement my explanation though.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-2eUZ4qQps

So is their blend a powder you mix with your resin?

Yes. And also I forgot that you are doing polyester... Anywhere that you are not going to gelcoat you can use epoxy based fairing compounds. The issue is poly not sticking to epoxy very well, not the other way around.

Good conversation going Rick. Thank you :!:  

[dirtwheelsfl]

Mucho clean!        Do those sandpaper discs youre using have the plastic film on the back you peel off before sticking to the pad?     Those little round pieces of plastic (folded in half) work great for dragging fairing compound over outside radii like you've got on the console. Kinda tricky but....

[Callyb]

Mucho clean!        Do those sandpaper discs youre using have the plastic film on the back you peel off before sticking to the pad?     Those little round pieces of plastic (folded in half) work great for dragging fairing compound over outside radii like you've got on the console. Kinda tricky but....

Thank you DW. Unfortunately, I have hook and loop discs. Anywhere that I can, I prefer to bulk up the fairing compound on the corners and go over it with the router with a round over bit. On the places I can't get with the router, I have an assortment of quartered pvc pipes that I use for shaping and sanding.

[Callyb]

This link is a very good write-up for installing through hull fittings. I figured I would post it here for all of us, but also so I don't loose it.

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/backing_blocks&page=1

[gran398]

Looking real nice

[Callyb]

I am having a hard time deciding how to do my stringers and would like some input from you guys please.

First off, I am going to install new trapezoid stringers, only I am raising the sole height. What I am on the fence about is if there will be any ill (ie. stress) effects from not keeping the trapezoid. What it really boils down to is the ease of building my molds. I still have the stringers that i could just use as a template (and are junk) and it would be easier just to add the height by just putting a square on top of the original shape. What I am worried about is the concentration of stress at the transition from the square (top) portion to the slanted sides of the trapezoid.

The green represents the additional height.


Thanks in advance!

[slvrlng]

Keep the trapezoid shape. I agree that the "notch" at the transition could be a weaker area. Are you planning on going something like Rickks method? That seemed to work quite well!

[dburr]

Carl why not just add to the bottom of the old stringer to build up the form?  Couple pieces of Formica glued to the bottom of the old stringers to give you the height you want a should not be to hard yeah?

[CLM65]

Carl,

I had that exact same question a few weeks ago.  The recommendation I got from Eugene Sun was to keep the trapezoid shape.  I ended up making molds for the "extension caps" of my stringers (I am raising them about 3").

Craig

[dirtwheelsfl]

Id keep the trapezoid continuous.   Easier to make for sure.     Id probably just use a 2x6 for the bottom of the mold (top of stringer) and then rip your bevels down some plywood to get the trap shape and screw right to the 2x....

[Callyb]

Thank you guys for your responses. I will keep the trapezoid shape.

slvrlng, Rick's stringers are what made me decide to go this route. I agree his came out super deluxe. The difference is I plan on making mine ona male mold. My logic in this is I can build the molds to the hull shape and have less trimming (hopefully none) on the backside. Another option I am toying with is pouring the foam for the stringers in the hull and using the foam for the mold. Not 100% sure about that yet...

Edit: If I go with pouring the foam first, the lamination will be like this. It gets rid of the taping.


dburr, That would be a very simple solution. Thanks!

DW, That is pretty much what I had planned on, wrapped in plastic.

Carl,

I had that exact same question a few weeks ago.  The recommendation I got from Eugene Sun was to keep the trapezoid shape.  I ended up making molds for the "extension caps" of my stringers (I am raising them about 3").

Craig

Craig, Capt Matt had also recommended 3 inches... I had not planned on going that high, but that seems to be the magic number. Did Eugene give you that number or does that seem to be what it takes to keep the cockpit self draining with an offset motor, livewell, etc.?

Thanks again guys!

[gran398]

Fellas,

Spoke with Eugene regarding flatback deck height, etc. Here is his input.

The deck height should be 3.5 inches above original in order to self bail. That assumes a closed transom with porta-bracket and a 175 etc. four stroke. They performed inertia/fulcrum/weight calculations to arrive at that number.

He also advises that the fuel tank be positioned well forward. On Shipoke's rebuilds the front portion of the tank extends into the area under the original forward casting deck.

Hope this helps