1974 196 rebuild

[Gundy]

Well so i started the rebuild, ohh and did i say this is my first rebuild!!!

I have removed the rotten floor, wet foam and all the wood in the boat.

I would like to finish the transom this weekend and am looking for advice! I want to use a 24" gill bracket that came with the boat and hang a Suzuki DF140 on it.  I am curious as to whether i should keep the transom flat or follow the slight curve in the top cap. I am laying up 3 layers of 1/2" coosa with 1-1/2oz. chop strand matt in-between each layer. There is about a 3/4" curve as you can see in the pictures.

Should i keep the curve?
Should i add additional support i.e. coosa where the bracket bolts to the transom?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks everyone!!!!

[mshugg]

I think the curve looks traditional, and befitting of a classic.

[RickK]

Was this hull originally an i/o?

[Gundy]

Yes it sure was, at some point during its life someone started a refit but never finished it. I was able to pick it up from a property owner for $150. It was missing the fuel tank as well as the console.

[Ulysses485]

I would absolutely keep the crown! Not many of the I/O's around from what it seems and the crown is classic from the 70s.

[RickK]

Not only do you have a crown on the top of the transom, you have a slight outward bow of the transom itself.  Keep that in mind as you try to install the bracket.

[Gundy]

The outward bow is what i'm most concerned about. It begins at the top of the transom about 3/4" and as you proceed down to the keel it tapers out to flat. So it's almost a compound curve side to side and top to bottom.

So i was thinking after i install and glass in the coosa on that curve, creating a flat just under the gill bracket foot on the outside of the transom. I hope that's clear!

What do you think? This is the gil bracket i bought the boat with.

[RickK]

Is the bracket in that pic showing how it will be mounted? What is the vertical drop to the engine? Reason I ask is how/where do you mount the bracket in relation to where an engine normally mounts?

[Gundy]

Rick, I hope this helps. It mounts very much the same as any other style bracket. I plan on using a 25" shaft motor with this.

[dbiscayne]

the engine mounting area looks like its angled too much.

[RickK]

   On the 2nd pic at least. Your bracket looks to be ok.
Is your bracket a 24" setback? The anti-cavitate plate on the engine needs to be at the bottom of the hull (you probably already know that).  I would think it's going to be a PITA to figure out where the bracket should be mounted to the transom on a 24" setback bracket and a 25" engine.  It's like you need to mate the engine to the bracket and then find the exact place to mount it, using a straightedge from the hull bottom. You should plan on an inch raise in the engine height for each foot of setback. Hope you have a chain fall hoist.

I can see the outward bow on the 2nd picture.

[Gundy]

Ok I need some advice i finally finished the transom coosa. I have 3 layers of 1/2" coossa with 1.5oz matt in between each layer. On the inside i was planning 1.5oz matt, 1708, 1.5oz matt, 1708, 1.5oz matt.

My question is what would you recommend for the inside? 

[RickK]

1708 has CSM sewn on, on one side.  I would just use 3 layers of 1708 with a 4", 8" and 12" overlap. Mix up some putty (resin plus cabosil plus chopped fibers - some people use wood fiber) to use as filleting material to round out the corners and let it harden. Then laminate the 1708 on, wet on wet. Add a PVC pipe in the bottom before you laminate. Here is a link to where I explain the thought of the PVC pipe
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133124#msg133124

Here is a link to where I show what is actual problem
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133556#msg133556

Here is a link to Hawgleg's rebuild that shows the PVC pipe installation to keep a drain at the new low point of the boat
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg134262#msg134262

It looks like you'll need to cut back the stringers another 15 " to perform the 1708 lamination properly. Save the parts you cut off because you can glue them back in.

[dbiscayne]