1970 Aquasport 222 FB rebuild

[flatbackpaul]

Aquasport didn't put hatch covers on the square cut-out where speakers would naturally fit.  They stretched a piece of canvas over the cut-out a secure them with a snap.  I gave you the compartment covers.  One had two hinges on it which was the top and the other piece had two teak knobs that turned and held it in place.  You should have all those pieces - that is the area where I located my trolling motor batteries.

[HawgLeg]

Paul,
I found the compartment covers. I had put them in our storage container and forgot about them. My bad bro.

[HawgLeg]

Port side glassed. Went much smoother this time.

[RickK]

You now have a clean solid canvas to create your masterpiece on now

[Shine]

Looking good Edward.  1708 came out nice.

Joel

[HawgLeg]

Hurry up fuel tank!!! Gonna take a break this week from the boat. Gotta ferry a plane down to Tampa tomorrow and won't be back to Macon till midnight then going fishin with my sweetie next weekend. When i get back I will finish out glassing in the transom and then I really need to lay everything out with string so i can get my placements just right. Hopefully my tank will be here in another week or so.

[HawgLeg]

Inside transom skin is complete. This transom is a beast.










Fuel tank came in too. 69 gallons.

[RickK]

Looks good
Maybe you've done this already (if so excuse me), put some water in the hull and make sure where the pvc should be cut to allow all the water to drain. You don't want it ahead of the water.
BTW, I wish I would have done this on my rebuild - live and learn.

[HawgLeg]

Got the trailer on as level a surface as I could find and raised the jack to about where I would have it when stored in the shop. Put some water in and I got lucky cause all the water drained out perfectly!!

I spent the afternoon inside the hull brainstorming the layout. Decided I should put the casting deck in the boat temporarily to give myself some vision. It almost looks like the original sole height could still work but Im still going to notch my stringers so that the casting deck will fit without manipulating it and still raise my sole an inch or two to give plenty of room for fuel/vent lines and rigging tubes. Real happy that the front of the tank can go up under the casting deck with no problem. With regards to sole height, I'm not so much worried about self bailing all the time I will probably keep plugs in my scuppers and then pull them while underway. I'm working on getting it all played out with string. Open to any and all suggestions.

[RickK]

Got the trailer on as level a surface as I could find and raised the jack to about where I would have it when stored in the shop. Put some water in and I got lucky cause all the water drained out perfectly!!

[HawgLeg]

Do the stringers need to be contoured to the hull bottom or can they just be bedded in a bunch of epoxy? Got them built and started cutting just not sure how "fitted" they need to be before installing.

[Shine]

Do the stringers need to be contoured to the hull bottom or can they just be bedded in a bunch of epoxy? Got them built and started cutting just not sure how "fitted" they need to be before installing.

They do not need to fit perfectly, the loads should be transferred from hull to stringer evenly, through the fiberglass.  For this reason you do not want the stringers resting on just a couple places (hard spots).  Ideally the stringers will have a slight and constant gap under them.  Use tiny slivers of foam or mixing sticks to keep them from touching, build your fillet, then glass.

[CLM65]

They do not need to fit perfectly, the loads should be transferred from hull to stringer evenly, through the fiberglass.  For this reason you do not want the stringers resting on just a couple places (hard spots).  Ideally the stringers will have a slight and constant gap under them.  Use tiny slivers of foam or mixing sticks to keep them from touching, build your fillet, then glass.

Joel,

How much do you think the expanding foam within the stringers helps to distribute the load and prevent damage due to localized hard spots where the stringers and hull meet?  Obviously the higher the density foam, the greater the ability to distribute the load.  Most often 4 lb density seems to be used for this.  Just wondering because some folks seem to be going the route of thicker glass stringers with no foam.  Also wondering because I didn't follow your approach with the gap, although I did lay a couple extra layers of 1708 under the edges of the stringers (only applies to the areas where I removed one side of the stringers around my gas tank).

[northfork]

Joel
I have a question about keeping the stringers above the hull. If we keep them above the hull a 1/4" or so but them lay a fillet at the base does that create a "hard spot"
I was thinking that making sure the entire base of the stringer was bedded with no voids would distribute the loads over a larger area.
As always look forward to hearing your thoughts and advice.
Northfork

[HawgLeg]

Joel
I have a question about keeping the stringers above the hull. If we keep them above the hull a 1/4" or so but them lay a fillet at the base does that create a "hard spot"
I was thinking that making sure the entire base of the stringer was bedded with no voids would distribute the loads over a larger area.
As always look forward to hearing your thoughts and advice.
Northfork

even though you create a gap with shims, when you lay a fillet won't some creep under the stringer and create a hard spot?