Advice about 70s era 170

[Jimmies]

I'm new to the board and I'm hoping to get as much info as I can about my new (old) 1976 170. So whatever you can tell me about these old hulls would be great.

1. To start, I need to rebuild the fishbox hatch--the underside is weak--or maybe just purchase a replacement hatch.

2. Then I want to install the Ping-Pong suppers. I'm not loving how low the drains are in relation to the waterline and it seems like those scupper are a must. Any thoughts?

3. Next, I was thinking about refinishing the teak along the deck, the rod holders, and trim pieces. I've never worked with teak but I heard it cleans up well with the right approach. Any suggestions? Or is it just better to replace the teak altogether?

These are just a few things I'm thinking about. The list is long but I thought I'd put this out there just to see if you all would be willing to give me some feedback on these projects. I know they are no-brainers to a lot of you. After looking at some of these rebuilds you have posted I know I'll never be at that level. But hey, you have to start somewhere.

[RickK]

Welcome aboard Jimmies 

Yup, we all started somewhere.  I have a '70/71 170 and have owned it since '88.  My hatch (I only have one factory hatch) is different than what came standard after '72.
Here is a link to a '75 sales sheet for a 170.  The first page shows the middle hatch open and shows the backing on it.   http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=552

Should be a piece of cake to use a cutting wheel and cut around the edge of the backing and then slide a pry bar in under the backing and then pop it off.  Then you can replace it with wood again (lasted a few decades) or go composite.  You grind off the old remnants of the wood off the back of the hatch and get the bottom of the hatch ground everywhere so you can lay some cloth to stiffen it up.  Once done, blow it off, wipe it with acetone, cut some 1708 or 1208 to fit (at least one layer, maybe two), mix some resin, roll it onto the bottom of the hatch, lay the cloth into the resin, hard roll it into the resin and then roll more resin to make sure it is wetted out.  Now take some plastic drop cloth and cover the hatch and then lay some cinder blocks onto the hatch everywhere you can so it will cure flat. Make sure you are doing this on a flat surface.

While it is curing (I would let it harden overnight) you can start making the new backing. If the old popped off intact you can use it as a model for the new piece of backing.  Cut the new backer, I like to cut the edges at a 45 so it's easier to lay the cloth over it. If plywood coat it with resin on all sides, especially the edges. This will take a couple mixes of resin to get both sides. Some people will also drill small holes through the wood so the resin can penetrate into it.   
When the cloth has kicked, remove the blocks and plastic and let the resin off-gas until it is not sticky. Then lightly grind the resin so it's ready to accept the next process.
When you are ready to proceed, you mix up some resin, the hardener and cabosil until it is as thick as peanut butter, trowel it onto the bottom of the new backing and press it into place.  Lay some cinder blocks on top of it (or anything you have that is pretty heavy) to keep it pressed into the resin.  Let it harden over night.  Once that is hard you lightly scruff the top of the wood, the beveled edges and hatch where it needs to be scruffed up from resin getting where it shouldn't have, with a grinder.  Now it's time to cut the top layers of cloth.  Cut it long enough to cover the top, the edge and onto the hatch bottom and maybe up the edges of the hatch. Once this is done, mix some resin and roll the backing, lay the cloth in, hard roll it and make sure it is wetted out enough but not too much.  Excess resin doesn't make it any stronger, actually weaker.
When it's all cured, if you used poly you can mix some gelcoat with catalyst (the waxed kind) and roll it over the entire new bottom of the hatch.  The wax helps it harden by keeping the air away. If you used Epoxy you'll need to paint the bottom of the hatch.
Ok, enough about the repair of the hatch.  You can look through the rebuilds section (do a search in that section) and you'll find a few examples of doing the repair.

[RickK]

Now for the scuppers.  The sales sheet I linked to above shows the max HP was 130 back in the day.  The 170 hull didn't change much in those days, the liner did.  So they were originally made for low HP and that kept the scuppers up out of the water.  As the engines got heavier and the foam in your hull/stringers soaked up more water, the boat sat deeper in the water.  My 170 did the same thing.  I have since torn the whole boat down to the bare hull and started over.
Try the ping pong ball type, many have used them with decent success.  If your floor is still solid keep postponing the inevitable rebuild and enjoy her as long as you can.

As for the teak, there are quite a few examples here of what to use and how to make it last longer between cleaning.

[Capt. Bob]

Welcome aboard Jimmies.

Scuppers.
Ping pong ball type are very popular with the 170 (and other models) crowd.
I would bet you will be pleased with them also.

Teak.
Great to look at, a PITA to maintain????....... not exactly.

I love the look of teak on Aquas. I wish I had more (factory) on my 91. Lots of opinions on care but let me tell you mine.

South Fla guy so I'm used to intense sun and weathering factors.
Teak used by Aquasport from the factory isn't considered the "highest quality" but.....
It makes these old Aquas look good. Unless it has physical damage, it will clean up nice and can be kept looking good with a minimum of care if you believe.

First, the teak Aquasport used is usually somewhat grainy. If that look doesn't float your boat, sanding is required to obtain the finish you desire. If you can live with the grain (I did), it cleans well without sanding. Water and soap works well but a general cleaner (like Starbrite) will get the dirt and mold out too. Coupled with a stiff nylon brush, you will be pleased with how clean it gets. Starbrite also makes a "brightener". Cleaners and brighteners common chemical additive is usually oxalic acid. The teak, once rinsed and dried will be light in color.

IMHO, nothing looks better on cleaned teak than Amazon Golden Oil (IMHO) but............. it last about 15 minutes ( ) in the South Fla. sun.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=163&engine=adwords&keyword=amazon_teak_oil&gclid=CPrU-67PocQCFchQ7AodOkUAaQ

Some members like Sikkens as a finish and tout it's longevity.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=6756

I like a very simple product called Teak Guard.
http://www.teakguard.com/index.html

I've had excellent luck (follow directions) with this product. It does last, just as advertised and is very easy to touch up when needed. Once you get used to applying, it goes on very quickly. Came across it at the Miami Boat Show a million years ago and a bottle will last a L...O... N...G time.

Good luck with your project and post up some pics. A lot of 170s have been restored on this site. Kind of a cult really.

Good luck.

[Jimmies]

Well thanks for all the info. I guess it makes sense to start with the scupper issue first. I'll try it soon and post some pictures. I'd be interested for the board to see the boat at rest next time I launch I'll get a shot and try to get some more opinions. Now I'm worried I may have overlooked the foam saturation issue.

I also appreciate the info on the teak. Some of the before and after shots on here are impressive.

The process for the hatch sounds like something I could tackle. I'm going to reread that advice and try to price out everything I would need for that repair. Someone offered to repair it for $200 so that may be an option as well.

[Capt. Bob]

I guess it makes sense to start with the scupper issue first. I'll try it soon and post some pictures. I'd be interested for the board to see the boat at rest next time I launch I'll get a shot and try to get some more opinions. Now I'm worried I may have overlooked the foam saturation issue.

Here's a thread on scuppers.

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=7340.0

 A lot of pics but not much on mounting. Still worth reading for the foam saturation and to realize it occurs often.

Same member on thoughts of how to dry out the foam

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=7940.0

You're not alone.


If you have the desire to repair or rebuild your hatch here are a couple of threads on this.

Scratch built:
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=11488.90

Smaller hatch:
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=6784.0

Larger hatch: Starts on the 4th post into the thread.
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=6907.0

Repairs of this nature to older hatches that the core material has failed are common here so there is plenty of info should you decide to go that route.

Good luck.