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Author Topic: Hatch Repair  (Read 1648 times)

March 12, 2011, 08:35:50 PM
Read 1648 times

slvrlng

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Hatch Repair
« on: March 12, 2011, 08:35:50 PM »
When I got the boat a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the hinges on the anchor locker were on their last leg. The latch was not working either. I took it off and got new hinges and latch. I started to see how they were going to fit and I realized I needed to fill the old holes. I drilled them out and low and behold the core was mulch around the screw holes. I got my new cutter from HF and slit around the core through the fiberglass.



I then took a chisel and went around the edge prying up the fiberglass off the core. Once I had gotten it started I looked at the core a little closer and thought, that doesn't look like marine ply. They actually cored this thing with balsa. Around the screw holes it was mulch, but most of it was still stuck really well. This new tool is awesome for getting the core out and not touching the fiberglass under it.









I got it out and you can see how far the water had soaked away from the holes. The dark areas are damp.



Once I got it out and looked close there were a lot of pinholes and resin starved areas all over this thing.





I have ground out all the delaminated glass and most of the pinholes. My question is what next?
I am leaning towards laminating a piece of mat over the whole underside so I will have a smoother foundation. Any other ideas?
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Lewis
       1983 222 Osprey "Slipaway"
       1973 19-6 "Emily Lynn"
      
March 13, 2011, 10:22:00 AM
Reply #1

gran398

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Re: Hatch Repair
« Reply #1 on: March 13, 2011, 10:22:00 AM »
Nice work bro. Good news is its a small area, you can go with most anything you choose...I wouldn't have a problem with AC fir glassed in. Or all glass per your thinking.
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March 14, 2011, 04:27:16 PM
Reply #2

Necessary Evil

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Re: Hatch Repair
« Reply #2 on: March 14, 2011, 04:27:16 PM »
Www.glassclown.com has some very detailed fiberglass layup tutorials. Great job so far!
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1976 22-2
Roll Tide!
March 16, 2011, 10:30:58 PM
Reply #3

slvrlng

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Re: Hatch Repair
« Reply #3 on: March 16, 2011, 10:30:58 PM »
After thinking this through for a few days I decided to use 3/8 marine ply to core the hatch. Once I got the piece cut to fit I realized that the hatch had a slight curve that the original balsa core conformed to easily when it was put in. At the rear edge of the hatch the ply was off the glass by about 1/2". After talking to seabob about this issue I went with his suggestion of cutting the ply into pie shaped wedges, wider at the back and tapering towards the front. This works really well in that it allows the ply to lay down in the curve.




 I received my epoxy order yesterday from boatbuildercentral.com. I started by mixing up some epoxy and putting some of the mix in a second cup. I then mixed wood flour into the first cup until I had it about like peanut butter. I then "primed" the hatch with the plain epoxy and then spread the thickened mix across the hatch about 1/8" thick Then I wet the ply pieces with the plain epoxy and mashed them into the thickened material.







I mixed some more material and made some more peanut butter. I took this and filled any gap between the ply pieces and the edge of the hatch using it as a fillet material.
Then using 6 oz cloth (its all I had) I laid it on top and wet it out. I repeated this again with another layer of 6 oz and wet it out too.
I would hate to be the guy that ever has to recore this thing again. Its curing now and I will be able to see how well this method works in the morning. I think it should be strong as hell!
Thanks go out to seabob for the idea on making the ply match the curve!  :thumleft:



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Lewis
       1983 222 Osprey "Slipaway"
       1973 19-6 "Emily Lynn"
      
March 16, 2011, 10:41:27 PM
Reply #4

seabob4

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Re: Hatch Repair
« Reply #4 on: March 16, 2011, 10:41:27 PM »
Remember the calculus thingie, Lewis...

Looks excellent! :salut:  :salut:  :salut:
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Corner of 520 and A1A...
March 17, 2011, 08:53:22 AM
Reply #5

jdupree

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Re: Hatch Repair
« Reply #5 on: March 17, 2011, 08:53:22 AM »
I wish my recore was that easy :roll:
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John L. Dupree, III
1999 Aquasport 245 Explorer - 225 Johnson Ocean Pro
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March 17, 2011, 09:46:11 AM
Reply #6

Capt. Bob

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Re: Hatch Repair
« Reply #6 on: March 17, 2011, 09:46:11 AM »
Was the "B+" the grade you got on your glass work?   :wink:

It's gettin' there. :thumleft:
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Capt. Bob
1991 210 Walkaround
2018 Yamaha 150 4 Stroke
"Reef or Madness IV"
March 17, 2011, 11:43:28 PM
Reply #7

wrightex

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Re: Hatch Repair
« Reply #7 on: March 17, 2011, 11:43:28 PM »
Did you have any problem with it bowing after it cured?

Seems there was a thread on here a while back about weighting hatches down with blocks or batteries as they cured to eliminate any bow.

I'm getting ready to recore my platform hatches and was going to try to find that thread, if I can.
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March 17, 2011, 11:57:52 PM
Reply #8

seabob4

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Re: Hatch Repair
« Reply #8 on: March 17, 2011, 11:57:52 PM »
Quote from: "wrightex"
Did you have any problem with it bowing after it cured?

Seems there was a thread on here a while back about weighting hatches down with blocks or batteries as they cured to eliminate any bow.

I'm getting ready to recore my platform hatches and was going to try to find that thread, if I can.

Should "bowing" occur, weights placed at the perimeter with the hatch upside down over a pail, in the sunlight here for a day can cure that...

Just don't go too far the other way... :shock:  :shock:
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Corner of 520 and A1A...
March 18, 2011, 07:02:45 AM
Reply #9

slvrlng

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Re: Hatch Repair
« Reply #9 on: March 18, 2011, 07:02:45 AM »
No warping. It drops right back into its spot. Warping is why I like epoxy as a glue. It creates less heat as it cures. Also with the slower cure you can work it longer than poly. You can refrigerate it to slow it even further, but since the basement is 60 degrees it seemed to be fine. With medium hardener I had about 15 to 18 minutes before it would start creating some heat. Of course that was in the mixing cup, if I had poured it into a shallow pan it gives you a lot longer amount of time before it kicks.
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Lewis
       1983 222 Osprey "Slipaway"
       1973 19-6 "Emily Lynn"
      
March 18, 2011, 08:43:03 AM
Reply #10

Capt. Bob

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Re: Hatch Repair
« Reply #10 on: March 18, 2011, 08:43:03 AM »
Quote from: "wrightex"
Did you have any problem with it bowing after it cured?

Seems there was a thread on here a while back about weighting hatches down with blocks or batteries as they cured to eliminate any bow.

I'm getting ready to recore my platform hatches and was going to try to find that thread, if I can.

Here's one.
There's more but a pic is worth a thousand posts.

viewtopic.php?p=27958#p27958
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Capt. Bob
1991 210 Walkaround
2018 Yamaha 150 4 Stroke
"Reef or Madness IV"
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