19.6 with teak gunnels??

[Nimble_Jim]

19.6 with teak gunnels ?  I just picked up a ' 76 19.6 and I'm new to the site. I was looking at all the pictures you guys have posted and haven't seen any boats with teak gunnels.  The teak is loose and the gunnel has cracks in the gelcoat just above the rub rail, seams like a nice touch but I am going to have to replace the teak and this time I'm going to use 5/4 mahogany ( can't afford teak ) and screw and glue it in place with 5200 to give more strength. Are the wood gunnels.....rare.......... Weird........... what are the + and -'s?

Thanks,,, Jim.

[pete]

welcome to the site Jim!the wood covers on the gunnels were not that uncommon,very hard to keep looking good they need to be varnished or teak oiled every few months,I think the varnished mahoganny would look great.An alternative to that would be starboard.lets see some pics of your boat.

[Nimble_Jim]

Hey Pete, thanks for the reply. Don't have any pic's yet but I'll grab my kids camera tomorrow and post some here. -Jim

[gran398]

Nimble Jim and Pete,

Merry Christmas to all, and Nimble..... we're glad you're here!

You're first post is appreciated.

Wooden gunnels weren't factory, represented local preference. Save them if you can.

[MarshMarlowe196]

I'm not sure if wooden gunwales weren't factory- as pete said, we've seen them before.  They were most likely intended to be cutting boards (I'd love to have some on my gunwales).  I believe they started appearing on the 19-6's when they changed the gunwale cap/inner liner.  I'm thinking they made this change in 1976 (I could be wrong about that).

Here's a link to a member's thread about his new 1977 19-6.  His 19-6 also has wooden gunwales.  He was kind enough to show us pictures too...   

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=6080.msg41775#msg41775

[gran398]

Was making reference to the last post, the outer gunnel  (top rub-rail) not the gunnel plate. Sorry for the confusion.

[GoneFission]

Teak covering boards were an option for many Aquasport models, from the 170 through the CCPs and the big boats.  They look great when they look great - the rest of the time not-so-good.  Dupree has teak covering boards on his CCP; mine has the fiberglass version. Facing up as they do, the teak covering boards take a direct sun hit all the time, so it's hard to keep them looking good without constant attention.  My vote would be Sikkens.

[Nimble_Jim]

Sorry guys I was going to take some pictures and post them today but the snow has covered everything here on Eastern Long Island. As far as the cutting board purpose of the teak gunnels......... keeping the teak nice and then slashing it up to cut bait sends shivers through me, I'd rather screw some pieces of starboard on the teak to cut on . What I don't understand is why they would notch out the liner so the 3/4" teak is the only horizontal structual member. ??? It really makes for a very weak hull/gunnel, the gelcoat is all cracked there....... and thats the only spot i have cracks. I looked at the picture some here suggested.... thats the same boat I have.........just wish mine was half as nice, maybe when I'm done with the rebuild.  Thanks - Jim.

[gran398]

Now that I have a firm grasp...

One of my buddies here in town owns a fiberglass/paint shop, his main biz is warranty work for the Grady and Whaler dealers.

He's good, and here's what he does with teak.

Sand the teak down...on a washboard, some have become concave through the years, so this could be time consuming. Easiest thing would be to run it through a big planer, set light.

After you're happy with it, several coats of West with UV resist hardener. Then finish with 4 to 6 coats of Awlgip "Awl-Clear." This fills/builds up the grain. Keep shooting with the Awl-Clear 'till you're happy.

He did a teak rocket for me this way, turned out nice.

But then again, you could go with the Palm Beach look: natural, soaped regularly.

[Capt. Bob]

S What I don't understand is why they would notch out the liner so the 3/4" teak is the only horizontal structual member. ??? It really makes for a very weak hull/gunnel, the gelcoat is all cracked there.

I'll look tonight when I go home to be sure but....

I believe that on earlier models of the CCP (or maybe all models ) that section is removable per say.
By that I mean, it could have come as a teak or fiberglass top in that area (option). Mine (on the CCP) is fiber but it has visible joints and mounting screws. I doubt that it was intended to be a true structural member but it seems to support my big ol' butt when I board or disembark.

[Nimble_Jim]

Hey Capt. Bob! I was thinking structural as when you come up along side a dock or another boat, if your not careful  and you slam the gunnel  where the wood is, that is going to be the weak spot that  will absorb all the impact pressure and flex,  loosening the screws holding the wood  and cracking the gelcoat. See ms to me to be an inherent weakness in the design. posting.php?mode=reply&f=1&t=6428#

[seabob4]

Just a little comment here.  Starboard is INCREDIBLY slippery when it gets wet.  That is the last thing I would use for gunwale caps, as this is often where boarding passengers step down from a dock onto when climbing aboard...

Now, a couple of nice teak step pads, 2 per side, would do just fine...small, easy to keep looking good, sure-footed...

[Nimble_Jim]

Your right SeaBob4! I was thinking of cutting slots in the star board to make it non skid, but come to think of it I have some teak skid pads/treads i could use to. - Jim

[seabob4]

Jim,
Dig them out, sand them, a little teak oil...good to go!  Drill and c/sink for #8 ovalheads. one at each corner and 1 in between the corners, centered...