the bobbie boat 72 19.6

[knagle]

I was thinking about this project? page 3 or 4


https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=11003.45

[knagle]

still looking at this one trying to see what he did

https://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=4670.0

[RickK]

If you're going to re-core from the inside you need to cut everything back 18" - floor, stringers, liner - if you can pop the cap loose about half way down the boat, you can prop it up on both sides of the boat and not cut that. If you take care doing it you can re-attach them and repair the cuts. You'll need 18" of work area to do the 6 laminations that are usual - 4", 8", 12" overlaps for a sturdy transom. If you want to save the liner that comes up over the inside of the transom you can do that and glue it back on the face, you can do that and save all the fairing work.
You should also think about adding a piece of PVC to compensate for the new low spot in the hull.

Here is a link to where I explain the thought of the PVC pipe
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133124#msg133124

Here is a link to where I show what is actual problem
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg133556#msg133556

Here is a link to Hawgleg's rebuild that shows the PVC pipe installation to keep a drain at the new low point of the boat
http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=13148.msg134262#msg134262

I wish I would have thought of this approach while I was doing my rebuild - now I have an inch or 2 of water in my bilge that I can't get rid f without sponging it out. 

[knagle]

Well I tried a few more tool to get the rest of the wood out, with no luck. I then did a bunch of research on the matter. In the back of my head I kept thinking about the seacast instruction for bad fiberglass or missing interline option 2 it is on page 7 of there instructions http://www.transomrepair.net/images/manual/SeacastManual_July_2011_WEB.pdf.  I then got to thinking about how some of the videos I watched on transom repairs. Cut all but 2" of the back glass. So I measured the back glass it is 1/8 inch thick, which means I only need 1 1/2 Inches to tie new glass in         (assuming I read everything right). So I plan to cut all but 2" of the back skin. clean the rest of the wood out and finish prep for pour. Then cut cheap plywood too the size and shape of the transom. for laying the new glass I have two Ideas

plan A: bevel the edges of the outer hull to 1 1/2 inches. use 3 layers of 1708 and follow the seacast directions. wet and attach wings to beveled area. reinforce the outer hull to pour.

Plan B: Use plywood Cutout of new transom shape coated with pva  screw it to the outer hull or other wise brace it. Bevel edges of hull and Lay new glass and sand the edges. Then remove the plywood and brace new glass for pour.

[knagle]

or for that matter I could just do a plywood transom at that point.

[wingnut]

If you do cut out the back panel of the transom, have you considered saving it and glassing it back in (prior to pouring)? This would allow you to get it clean inside, but would save you a LOT of faring. Just a thought... lots of ways to tackle this.

[knagle]

So I decided to cut the back hull as I stated earlier leaving 2" all the way around. Now it appears that the bottom of the back transom glass is thicker than 1/4 of an inch which would require that I wrap the new glass around to the bottom of the boat. I am not sure if I want to do that. So I loosened the Gunwale and it appears the liner is glued to the hull. picks on the way. I read on one post that that it was only glued at the top 3 inches. I am kinda afraid to start cutting the liner for two reasons what if it is glued all the way down. Second, I am not sure how thick the liner is and it is flat against the outer skin of the boat I am afraid of cutting the outer skin by accident. any thought on this would help.

[knagle]

[knagle]

I went ahead and cut the back out the glue was super strong. I had to chisel the sides and the floor had to come out in peices the glue was so strong that some of the fiberglass from the floor is still on the stringer. but it is out.

[knagle]

I should have just done this from the start, it was so much easier than trying to dig that old wood out from the top. The cutting is done thank God. Now time to grind and prep.

[McAllgeyver]

There is going to be a lot of that "Wish i did that from the start" saying. Been there, done that, and still doing it. 
Keep it up.  Looking good!

[knagle]

got it all cleaned up and doing the last few hundred wipe downs with acetone.


I Sure hope I get a good bond with the poly? the glass was filled with these voids full of white powdery stuff. not sure what that is but it was all throughout the glass.


In one spot I tried to get them all out but they went all the way to the last layer.

[RickK]

Making good progress.  Who knows what was going through the chopper gun back when it was made.