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« Last post by FrenchFrog on September 04, 2025, 07:58:30 AM »
Didn't put a template on here, as it wouldn't be of much use unless it was printed exactly to scale. May get around to just adding a dimensioned sketch, if that would be of use to anyone.
Anyway, the OP asked for pictures of the mounting hardware and any manufacturer's info. Here are a couple pics. They are made by Perko, and have "Fig. 769" on the handle. I'm posting here in case anyone else is looking for this info.
Hi group, Anyone knows where I can find the hardware to attach the back seat on my Osprey 205?
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« Last post by dbiscayne on September 03, 2025, 02:56:29 PM »
I wouldn't trust the poured transom method if you're not doing the whole transom. Will probably be really hard to get a bond between whats left of the existing transom core at the outer edges of the pour, so you'd be left with a strong new section in the middle isolated from the outer areas, but you really need a strong full width transom with a good connection to the sides of the boat and stringers. Otherwise you get a vertical hinge line at the interface between the pour and the existing, I could see the transom failing along that line. Might last a while, or a week?
Also dependent on getting a good bond to the inner and outer skins of the existing transom, lots of difficult prep work to do this method right.
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« Last post by Duffy1470 on September 03, 2025, 10:21:43 AM »
Faired about all I can stand. Have an appointment with the paint guy in two weeks. Fingers crossed
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« Last post by dbiscayne on September 02, 2025, 11:47:15 AM »
yep but it might get exciting. always had better luck finding the dead cylinder that way by turning the idle down really low first. Another option is to let the engine warm up, then squirt water on the exhaust really close to the head, a dead cylinder won't be near as hot the water wont' sizzle and smoke on that exhaust pipe.
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« Last post by dbiscayne on September 02, 2025, 11:44:34 AM »
Is the trim motor still making noise at all? Or just silence? I've had a few outboards in the past that didn't like being trimmed too far up, would have to loosen the hydraulic pressure release screw, push the engine down, and everything worked fine again as long as I didn't trim up to past around 75% up. But could always hear the motor working.
If you've got silence, I got nothin.
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« Last post by amos.meringer on September 02, 2025, 04:26:51 AM »
Thank you for the idea. follow up: The fuse housing that was attached to the first pig tail had disintegrated. After cutting out the old fuse housing and installing a new one she's up and running again, great weekend. now the trim is frozen at about 75%up.
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« Last post by NHAqua222 on September 01, 2025, 08:59:50 AM »
After many hours working on the boat it has become clear to me that I have run out of time with two children coming soon. Here is the FB post. Feel free to message me with any questions (fb might be easier for messages). All the stringers have been repaired and it has a new coosa transom. I have all the other parts and pieces and lots of extra glass. 90 hp 4 stroke Honda runs great. Thanks for looking. https://www.facebook.com/share/177T6KQVyi/?mibextid=wwXIfr
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« Last post by kaptainkoz on August 31, 2025, 01:12:57 AM »
Mine actually wants to go fishing… and for me to renovate the bathroom
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« Last post by Greenlaker75 on August 30, 2025, 03:17:31 PM »
Sorry - forgot photo in original post.
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« Last post by Greenlaker75 on August 30, 2025, 03:16:12 PM »
Hi everyone!
I’m really struggling to plan a transom rebuild on a 1979 222 ccp due to the splash well and not having access to rebuild from the inside.
Can I do the pour method and just pour the section of the transom where I can get into
It from the top. See attached photo, area marked up in pink.
Or am I stuck with building a new transom by cutting the outside transom
Skin?
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