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« Last post by dbiscayne on October 15, 2025, 12:45:31 PM »
Access to the part is a big part of whether or not its hard to replace. Has a few variables too.
Is it the style with a female round threaded base thats screwed onto a clam shell or other straight pipe, without a base built in? That'd be the easiest to replace but not really the best style.
If it's got a base built into it then count on removing the mounting screws, cleaning off old sealant, & new sealant for assembly. May or may not require you to also take off an outer clam shell.
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« Last post by kaptainkoz on October 15, 2025, 10:25:19 AM »
Thank you. I’ve seen those. They could work in some instances but maybe not for shorter screws. I don’t think they take into account enough space for the “clearance hole” in the image above. The piece being fastened cannot be affected by the threads or it will hang up and not pull tight. In any case I would suggest a test piece to make sure you are getting the results you want before you go for a final piece. I do like the taper of these drill bits for the wood screws. Thank you Rick, as always much appreciated input.
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« Last post by plugger on October 15, 2025, 08:21:20 AM »
Bet if you could tell the shop year,make of engine he could come up with one that would work. . I believe Johnson for example was 3 digit (7—) serial number of motor probably best
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« Last post by RickK on October 15, 2025, 05:24:51 AM »
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« Last post by kaptainkoz on October 15, 2025, 02:14:16 AM »
This image helps to describe what I am trying to explain 
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« Last post by kaptainkoz on October 15, 2025, 01:42:31 AM »
A long time ago I decided that ALL VISIBLE fasteners will be slotted oval headed screws. I didn’t think a Phillips in teak was the look I wanted. Little did I know that machine threaded slotted ovals head screws are still readily available however wood screws are not. I had to special order online to get them. Special thanks to Bolt Depot for having what I need and getting it to me fast and easy. So to help out with proper fastener size selection I created this block so I have a sample size to choose from. Yes, I am aware that not all fasteners pictured are slotted ovals… it’s more just to catalog for me what is available so I can confidently commit to a size. Teak is tricky in that you cannot just screw into it. You have to pre drill all holes to avoid splitting or to even get the screw to go in without stripping the head off. It’s a very hard wood. So with that said you have to commit to fastener size so you can drill the proper size holes and counter sinks. For example, screwing a slat to a larger board… the slat hole has to be counter sunk and larger than the screw so the threads don’t catch it while the board hole has to be smaller than the threads but large enough to let the screw penetrate without splitting. Every screw requires two different sized drill bits and a counter sink to be installed properly. Simple right? Takes planning especially when I don’t want to make a single mistake with teak. Re-do’s will be tragic especially when I start working with the 50 year old Burmese teak I have for later in the project. I’m just getting warmed up repurposing scraps for now. I do not want to be drilling into finished glossy teak either and risk damaging the finish so all holes have to be pre drilled before varnishing. I just wanted to point out what has to go into fastening teak. I learned the hard way so you won’t have to. 
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« Last post by kaptainkoz on October 14, 2025, 12:45:38 PM »
Totally understand! Same here. Love the creative outlet but man I need to get fishing!!
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« Last post by rhtrades on October 14, 2025, 12:42:59 PM »
Thank you for this good advisement. I'm with you in that I think I enjoy working on my boat as much as I do using it. I replaced the entire deck and core last season...i'm glad it's over, but i'm looking at "whats next!"
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« Last post by kaptainkoz on October 14, 2025, 12:08:29 PM »
Thank you! Probably not. Resin kicks off at almost 300 degrees which could warp or melt plastic and doesn’t stick to plastic. I would think you would have to make a mold of the plastics and rebuild them in fiberglass. Spraying gelcoat to fiberglass and fairing it to look factory is an expert attempt. Even spraying gelcoat on to smooth gelcoat and endlessly sanding it clean as I have is no fun. However many car parts are plastic and I would think you could get a high quality auto paint designed for plastic maybe? Stay away from “spray paint” and go with something that you have to mix a hardener or catalyst into. They are much more durable paints. Gelcoat does polish pretty good but will never get as glossy as good paint. I like gel coat because you can repair it at any time… kind of like spackle on Sheetrock walls. Plus I wanted to keep it all gelcoat being it was gelcoat. I will warn that I had a hell of a time with runs when I sprayed the motor with auto paint. It is thin. Gelcoat is very thick and forgiving to heavy coats. Hopefully someone with more experience will chime in with a good answer on how to refresh plastics. I will warn you that refreshing gets addictive. I should have been in the water already but I keep adding to the rebuild.
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« Last post by rhtrades on October 14, 2025, 11:29:32 AM »
That looks amazing. great job. Makes me want to re-fresh my side rod holder panels...but they're plastic, not fiberglass. Do you think i can just go over the plastic with fiberglass (so i can gelcoat them)?
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