246/250ccp closed transom

[seafoamccp]

I bought this 79 246ccp.  It needs floors and transom redone.  Is there any really good write ups on here for re doing the floors? also can anyone that has done a closed transom give me some info such as cost and time it took to do it. Is it worth it to do?  still trying to decide ifbi should stay open or add a bracket.  I use the boat for offshore fishing in the gulf of fl mainly

[RickK]

mshugg just finished his CCP rebuild and closed in his transom, among other great mods. Look in the CCP rebuilds forum.

[mshugg]

As mentioned above, I rebuilt my 200 CCP, enclosed the transom and added an Armstrong bracket.  It worked out great.  The full transom gives a great sense of security offshore, and I gained a ton of fishing room.  I relocated my bait well to the leaning post,  it on a 246 you’d have the option of building it into the transom cap.  It’s great to be able to brace thighs against the transom while putting out baits or fighting fish.  The cost for the  full transom won’t be much more than rebuilding a cut out.  New, a bracket will add 3-4K.

Be sure to post pictures. I look forward to following your rebuild.

[seafoamccp]

20210223_105017

My question right now is, am I going to have to cut the entire back of the boat out to enclose the transom?  I could see how I would do it if my transom were flat but it has a curve to it and the sides bend outward as well.   

[seafoamccp]

[kaptainkoz]

I am having the same issues looking at my 246 cup transom. With minimal cutting of the existing outer wall and the inside gutted out the remaining transom is flexible enough to where it will give a little if under pressure. The real problem is the curve towards the lower quarter when looking from the side. The transom is not flat vertically. I am trying to mount a bracket so I need a flat spot. The solution… I think… will be to build a 4’ x 8’ platform… like a deck… and affix/strap/spit and glue the flat side of the platform to the outside of the transom, true the platform square and even, then build the transom from the inside against that shape. The deck would be 2x6 frame with 3/4 ply with 3/4 melamine board, waxed so glass/gel coat doesn’t stick. A large flat surface that I would press against the transom at the angle I want the transom to be. Unfortunately this idea is theoretical at the moment as I haven’t done it yet myself but I hope to try it in the fall and document on this site.

[pat nanney]

Did my 1978 245  enclosed trans installed twin engine bracket. ihave some ideas.on how i managed the curve .

[kaptainkoz]

Update on my R and D for 246CCP transom closure….


I built a 4’ by 8’ table top out of 2x6’s, 3/4 plywood and 3/4 melamine. Super stout and heavy.



The plan is add a sheet of Formica or 1/4 inch white board then bolt the entire assembly through the drain hole and press the assembly against the transom insuring a flat, true surface for the bracket. At a height of about 6” above the bracket in the photo I plan to curve the 1/4” sheet ONLY to meet the top edge then gel coat just the void  then glass the hell out of the opening adding larger and larger sheet until I have added a sheet that wraps at least a foot down the sides. It is not possible to continue flat all the way to the top cap. It has to be in two different angles but the bracket has to have a flat 13 degree even surface. The top portion just has to meet the cap for closure. Yes, there will still be a visible where the gel coat was added once the form is removed but I think that will leave me with a fairly easy transoms to body fill and final coat gel coat. I will then build an inner transom wall and use Seacast at a height of 6” above the bracket.
This is obviously theoretical at the moment but may end up happening by September 8th if I have enough time and material from laying the floor.

[kaptainkoz]

This is what I am planning. I will let you know in the coming weeks if it worked out this way. Theoretically you do not need the 3/4 melamine if it is strictly for a transom mold. I have it there becuase I am using it as a glassing table first before a transom mold. I may remove it because of the weight…. But you get the idea. Notice the relief at the top to match the existing lip of the hull.