Hard steering

[cdoyal]

My boat's getting harder to steer. At WOT, it's obviously easier but at idle, it's another story. It might become a safety issue at the dock. Since I have zero experience with the steering on my boat I'm asking you guys for some suggestions for where to start looking for the problem.
Thanks!

[wingtime]

I assume it is hydraulic steering?

[cdoyal]

I assume it is hydraulic steering?

I believe so. If I remember right, there's a pump aft on the starboard side. And it looks like the cables were recently replaced. They look almost new.

[gran398]

Does it "chatter" when you turn the wheel.....that is, can you feel a clicking through the wheel?

[cdoyal]

Does it "chatter" when you turn the wheel.....that is, can you feel a clicking through the wheel?

No chatter. What I thought was a fluid reservoir for the steering turned out to be for the trim tabs. So it looks like the cables go from the wheel to the horizontal piston on the motor and that's it. The round bar (a technical term, I'm sure   ) is shiny and rust free.

[Capt. Bob]

When you turn the steering wheel (boat on trailer) look at the "support brackets" and be sure they are not binding. The brackets are black, "L" shaped aluminum  pieces with washers/spacers that connect the rod that passes through the cylinder to the rod that actually turns the motor. These pieces must rotate freely as the motor moves or stiffness/binding will occur. The aluminum holes in the bracket will corrode around the stainless shafts.

This is if you have the same steering as I have on both my Aquas and your system is properly bled.

Good luck.

[flounderpounder225]

On the top of your steering wheel hub (the helm control, or pump) there should be some type of screw in plug, this is to add Hydraulic fluid to your steering.  what type of steering brand is it?  Hynautic, Seastar, you may be low on fluid from a slight leak in the system, if you remove that plug with the motor straight, you should be able to dip a small screwdriver into the hole to see where the fluid level is.  If it is real low, when you add fluid, you may have to bleed the system, there are bleed valves on most systems, back at the steering cylinder.  You can crack the bleed valve and rotate the wheel to turn the engine in that direction to let the air out, then tighten the valve before rotating the helm back in the opposite direction, this is just like bleeding brakes.  The other possiblilty is your steering tube on the engine bracket is very corroded and resulting in extreme pressure needed to move it.  The only way you can figure that is to disconnect the steering Hyd cylinder and move the engine by hand.  But check the fluid levels first, and if low, if you have access to behind the helm you may be able to see if the fluid is leaking out from around the steering wheel shaft seals.  Also, good instructions online at the various MFGs for their equipment for bleeding.
Marc

[gran398]

FP,

Could be low hydraulic fluid, but without the chatter... mine usually chatter (click-click-click) when low.

Standing-by.

 

 and cdoyal, PS....you won't need much to top it off. A couple ounces, at best.

[bumpster]

how much does it cost to fix that corroded steering tube? Mine is shot 94 yamaha 150ss

[seabob4]

Reservoir sounds like it may be a little low.  Air in the system can also be indicated by "dead" spots, as well as moving the wheel a decent amount before the engine moves.

Start with a proper bleeding, as outlined here in the Teleflex Manual...http://ww2.seastarsteering.com/PDFs/296784-AO.pdf.  BTW, this is an excellent publication to download and save.  I have installed close to 3,000 Teleflex Hydraulic steering systems in my time, and I still look at the book...

[seabob4]

how much does it cost to fix that corroded steering tube? Mine is shot 94 yamaha 150ss

Rob,
The best thing to do is take off the end caps and take out the seals, remove the cylinder, take it to a hyd shop, have them grind/smooth all the nicks/dings out, get rid of the rust, then re-plate, sorta like trim cylinders on an outdrive...

[flounderpounder225]

how much does it cost to fix that corroded steering tube? Mine is shot 94 yamaha 150ss

Rob,
The best thing to do is take off the end caps and take out the seals, remove the cylinder, take it to a hyd shop, have them grind/smooth all the nicks/dings out, get rid of the rust, then re-plate, sorta like trim cylinders on an outdrive...

Rob/Bob
I didn't mean to confuse the issue, when I was speaking of corroded steering tube, I was speaking of the Steering tube in the engine bracket on the transom, not the Hyd steering cylinder ...  Rob, if you are asking about that, you need to pull the powerhead, after that it's hot wrenches and sweat, if it's the hyd steering ram in the cylinder, yes to what Bob said.

[Capt. Bob]

When traveling in a straight line (more or less when running WOT) the cylinder rod is positioned fairly close to equidistant on both sides of the cylinder travel. The support brackets are positioned at their minimum flex and slight adjustments left or right cause minimal binding.
When at idle, you still can be steering straight but you mentioned a concern when docking and that's when you will be using the full range of the steering. The brackets with begin binding as you turn the wheel reaching the most restrictive as the steering approaches hard over. When turning the wheel hard over in either direction, notice the cylinder/shaft. It should be parallel to the transom. Any dip, up or down indicates binding.

As I stated earlier, this may not be what you're up against but it is easily seen when turning the wheel in either direction. This you can do at a minimal output of time and labor. Same thing on checking fluid level/air removal (bleeding) of the system.

Good luck.

EDIT:



The pic is small but the brackets I'm referring to can be seen. They may be slightly different on your model but the concept is similar.

[seabob4]

The actual steering tube, or "Tilt Tube" on the motor gets really gunked up on most motors, regardless of make.  They can be removed by removing the bigs nuts on each end, soaking with PB Blaster, then tapping out with a mallet and a block of wood.  But usually this doesn't have to be done.  Once the rod from the hyd. cylinder or the steering cable (depending on what type of steering you have) is removed, a good soaking of PB, followed by a good scouring using a bottle brush chucked into a drill will remove most of the crud inside the tilt tube.  Do that several times.  Upon re-assembly, liberally grease the inside of the tube.  If you have cable, I recommend removing the end of the cable yearly, especially here in FL, and re-greasing.  Stuck cable rods are no fun to get out of the tilt tube...

[gran398]

The boys that used to do my mess had a big, long heavy duty wire brush "drill bit" that they would run up in there with a HD drill....that got the job done.