Hard steering

[cdoyal]

UPDATE:
I went out to the boat and lowered the motor from trailering bracket so I could turn it back and forth to try and troubleshoot the problem. Surprisingly, the motor turned smoothly with little effort. I think the problem almost had to be a kinked line that's fine now. Too freakin' weird!

[fitz73222]

12 GA. shotgun bore brush works perfectly in combination with spray type engine carbon remover like valvetech will remove the caked grease and rust. Plus the brush being made of brass bristle will not remove the aluminum ID material. I`ve done this a number of times with great results. After cleaning, install a Bob`s machine grease cap fitting and periodically give her a shot or two of grease and put this behind you.

[allen456]

not to piggy back the thread, but i am having similar issues.  Mine (cable, not hydraulic) turns great with one finger at the dock, but under load and even WOT on perfect plane, it takes two hands and alot of effort to steer.  Tilt tube issues here?  need to be replaced or just cleaned?  Or is it the bushings or something else further down the exhaust shaft where the motor attaches to the steering arm near the lowerunit?  Thanks

[seabob4]

UPDATE:
I went out to the boat and lowered the motor from trailering bracket so I could turn it back and forth to try and troubleshoot the problem. Surprisingly, the motor turned smoothly with little effort. I think the problem almost had to be a kinked line that's fine now. Too freakin' weird!

CD,
If you indeed had a kinked line, then you need to replace it...PRONTO!  That kink will create a very weak spot in the hose, and it can blow out on you quicker than !  Not to be the bearer of bad news, but any time I have encountered a kinked hyd hose, well, it get's replaced.  1000 PSI will rupture that in a heartbeat...

[seabob4]

not to piggy back the thread, but i am having similar issues.  Mine (cable, not hydraulic) turns great with one finger at the dock, but under load and even WOT on perfect plane, it takes two hands and alot of effort to steer.  Tilt tube issues here?  need to be replaced or just cleaned?  Or is it the bushings or something else further down the exhaust shaft where the motor attaches to the steering arm near the lowerunit?  Thanks

Allen,
How old is the system?  Original?  10 years old?  When was the last time you pulled the rod out of the tilt tube and lubed it?  Also, what ius the orientation of your torque tab below your cav plate?  Should be about 1:00, looking from underneath...

[allen456]

not to piggy back the thread, but i am having similar issues.  Mine (cable, not hydraulic) turns great with one finger at the dock, but under load and even WOT on perfect plane, it takes two hands and alot of effort to steer.  Tilt tube issues here?  need to be replaced or just cleaned?  Or is it the bushings or something else further down the exhaust shaft where the motor attaches to the steering arm near the lowerunit?  Thanks

Allen,
How old is the system?  Original?  10 years old?  When was the last time you pulled the rod out of the tilt tube and lubed it?  Also, what ius the orientation of your torque tab below your cav plate?  Should be about 1:00, looking from underneath...

The torque tab is in the 1:00 position, the helm and cable were installed a about a year ago, after the orginal helm gear shattered, lubed the shaft heavily during install and relube at the zirk fittings a couple times a year.

[cdoyal]

UPDATE:
I went out to the boat and lowered the motor from trailering bracket so I could turn it back and forth to try and troubleshoot the problem. Surprisingly, the motor turned smoothly with little effort. I think the problem almost had to be a kinked line that's fine now. Too freakin' weird!

CD,
If you indeed had a kinked line, then you need to replace it...PRONTO!  That kink will create a very weak spot in the hose, and it can blow out on you quicker than !  Not to be the bearer of bad news, but any time I have encountered a kinked hyd hose, well, it get's replaced.  1000 PSI will rupture that in a heartbeat...

Well, I got to thinking about that. There's no way anything was kinked. Temps were in the 40's the night before so maybe it was just cold. I'll lube the tube and see what happens.

[allen456]

I further inspected the steering functions and noticed that the cable arm is "loose" inside the tilt tube.  Do I need to replace the bushings on the ends of the tilt tube or do I need to replace the complete tilt tube assembly?  Thanks

[cdoyal]

Does it "chatter" when you turn the wheel.....that is, can you feel a clicking through the wheel?

Yes, I now feel the click. Low fluid? Air in the line?

[gran398]

Most likely both. Buy the minimal amount of hydraulic fluid ( a pint would be a plenty, but you usually only find it in quarts) add it slowly as you continue to turn the wheel several times from port to starboard, leaving the helm cap off.

You'll feel it getting smoother as you continue to add. It won't take much, most likely only a few ounces. Top it off 'till it nearly overflows onto the console. Continue to spin the wheel/bleed the air. Leave whats left over in the boat.

Thats it....go fishin'.

 

[Capt. Bob]

If you're trying to bleed the system correctly, then re-read posts #7 & #10 in this thread and follow the link provided.

I just flushed my system (2 quarts needed) and bled the lines from the steering cylinder on the motor. I'm not so sure you'll end up with the best results trying to force/bleed air through the helm station. If you read the factory bleeding instructions, you'll see why.

Good luck.

[cdoyal]

Most likely both. Buy the minimal amount of hydraulic fluid ( a pint would be a plenty, but you usually only find it in quarts) add it slowly as you continue to turn the wheel several times from port to starboard, leaving the helm cap off.

You'll feel it getting smoother as you continue to add. It won't take much, most likely only a few ounces. Top it off 'till it nearly overflows onto the console. Continue to spin the wheel/bleed the air. Leave whats left over in the boat.

Thats it....go fishin'.

 

Does it have to be marine grade fluid? $20/quart seems a bit steep!

[Capt. Bob]

Does it have to be marine grade fluid? $20/quart seems a bit steep!

Well, I'll try once more.
The link in post ten will do several things.
1. It will answer your question on alternate fluids you can use.
2. Proper bleeding techniques and why they work.
3. Internal diagrams will help to understand how the system works.

The steering system is an important part of any boat and you showed concern in your first post about yours. 20 bucks a quart really doesn't sound bad when you compare it to the overall cost and importance of the system.

Good Luck

[cdoyal]

Does it have to be marine grade fluid? $20/quart seems a bit steep!

Well, I'll try once more.
The link in post ten will do several things.
1. It will answer your question on alternate fluids you can use.
2. Proper bleeding techniques and why they work.
3. Internal diagrams will help to understand how the system works.

The steering system is an important part of any boat and you showed concern in your first post about yours. 20 bucks a quart really doesn't sound bad when you compare it to the overall cost and importance of the system.

Good Luck

You're right. Thanks for the kick in the head. I needed it.

[gran398]

No need for a kick in the head. All we can do is post cures based on assumptions/ interpretations of needs. Its like trying to figure out a medical problem from posts in Africa. A percentage is lost in translation.

Your/our steering problem has gone full circle, but hopefully will come to finality.

Take in earnest what is offered, but most important, post your findings/cure for the benefit of all.

Thanks.