240 seahunter rebuild

[orb]

I am finally getting started on my 240. I have posted some info on the site about the boat, but I have not officially started a rebuild thread, so here goes.

It had been rebuilt as a center console, but when I got it, it was all rotten, so I am rebuilding it totally. I think I am going back with the original layout, side console, with forward seating.

It appears that it was an io originally, then it was changed to an outboard, an OMC seadrive. I thought about rebuilding it as diesel center console, but I am really an outboard kinda guy. I love diesels(in trucks and cars), but I have never owned an inboard boat, and it will just be easier and cheaper, now and in the long run, to just stick an outboard on it.

I am planning on extending the hull about 3 feet, and building like a euro transom , kinda like the guy did his mako, on classicmako.com
http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic. ... Terms=mako

I am not using any wood. I know everyone has their opinions about wood vs. composites, but I will just feel better building with materials that cannot rot. I am planning on  building a mold, extending from the existing hull, for the extension layup. I am going to use polyester for the hull extension layup. Then connect it to the existing hull with epoxy, extend the stringers to go all the way back to the transom, fill with foam and tab down with epoxy. I will use 1/2 inch  26lb coosa -3 layers for a  1.5 inch thick transom.
Here are a few pictures of the project so far.

[gran398]

Thanks

Neat idea to go like the Mako build.

[fabuck71]

Sweet boat.  Try and frame (Build a Jig) up that transom before it twists.

[dirtwheelsfl]

Cant wait to see this one get started! The edited pics look cool.

You mention using polyester for the extension layup, then connecting (tabbing) it with epoxy. Me thinks the extension AND tabbing into existing hull should be the same continuous pieces of glass. In other words, all of your new extension laminates should go from transom all the way up the hullsides a couple feet. I'd lay the glass so it tabs into the new "outside skin" of the transom as well. Then layup your transom skin into (over) those tabs... lots of ways to accomplish it, just my theory.

Whats the plan for extending the stringers?

[orb]

fabuck71,
Yes, I am going to tie all that back together temporarily, with a few 2x4's and screw, to hold to up while I am building it back.

Me thinks the extension AND tabbing into existing hull should be the same continuous pieces of glass.

dirtwheelsfl,
 Yeah, I have been beating that around in my head. If I use polyester for the resin part of the extension, it will save money over using epoxy. But I do not want to connect the two with polyester resin. So, I could use epoxy for the whole thing, but the price of epoxy is alot more than poly. I think that connecting it with epoxy will work. I am going to run the roving strands long sticking out of the extension toward the hull, and use some that it start the epoxy bond.
I am planning to laminate the whole deal in a single layup, including the transom and sides, just like a hull is done. I will run the cloth up the transom, wet it out, and then stick the coosa in there, in the layup, so it will bond at one time.
I was planning on making a plug for the stringers out of plywood- to match up to the existing stringers, and popping the stringer off that. Then connect them with epoxy and scab on the side some roving. I am going to join the stringers at least 12" maybe 24" in front of the hull joint, so that the joints are staggered. ANd using a long angled scarf joint on all the joints, always joining with epoxy.
Thanks for the ideas and feedback.
Oliver

[gran398]

Build a jig...and lay her up all poly resin.

My apologies to other trains of thought...but to me, epoxy over polyester  on a substrate build is a whole lot more money, extra headache, difficult to finish, and no value received. And comes with future issues.

Once you go epoxy resin, anywhere...you can forget gelcoat. Even something as basic as spraying gel in the bilge.

Epoxy is a wonder catalyst.  It was initially used for wood bonding, joints, rot repair, and experimental airplane construction.

It has it's place, a great place. And please...not looking to whiz anyone off or start a new discussion here.

Go with a quality poly resin on the hull extension layup....and preserve your finish options later.

[dburr]

Oliver if you are going to build a mold for the extension, are you going to shoot it first with gel coat BEFORE you lay up? If you had the inside of the mold waxed Formica that might be a really slick way to get a jump on the finish.

This project is going to be cool! The diesel inboard would be really cool especially if you hung a water jet from it    while I am spending all your money of course..    

[orb]

I straightened up the sides, level the trailer and hull and got everything squared back up to their original positions. I filled the stringers in,with 2pd poly foam, cut the excess foam off and epoxied  stringers sides back together on top.

[orb]

I am planning on building a jig, prob out of plywood. I will finish the inside smooth, and then start with a polyester layup. Then I will attach that to the hull. I am going to paint the hull with awlgrip, or something similar, so I will not work with a gel coat. I tried to re-gelcoat a small boat a few years ago. It is so hard to make it stick for the long haul. Another example of how polyester does not form a good surface bond.

[Necessary Evil]

That Euro transom Mako is wicked cool! I can't wait to see your Aqua finished!

Good Luck!

[fishinonthebrain]

I really like your idea for your transom. I would have considered it for my rebuild but I am to far along now. Good luck with your build.

[orb]

I built a jig, kinda of a mold/frame out of plywood and coated the inside with release wax, and did the fiberglass work last week.  I extended the hull 3'. For the bottom of the hull, I used 4' long pieces of plywood. I pushed 1' up under the hull, on the trailer, to match the running surface of the hull, and to add support while I was doing the work. I basically just built a jig, and pushed it up under the hull. I had to level it to the running surface of the boat, so the extension would match the running surface of the hull, without having a hook or rocker.

I decided to use vinyl ester for the layup. I overlapped the cloth up onto the existing hull about 12". I used about 7 gallons of vinyl ester resin. I layed three layers of 1.5 oz cloth with 2 layers of 24 oz woving roving for the bottom and sides of the hull extension. I am still working on putting the coosa transom material in. I am using 26lb 3/4 coosa. I am going to use three layers of 3/4 coosa for the transom. I am still using epoxy for connecting and bonding/gluing structural elements, but I am using vinylester for everything else. It seems that vinylester resin has much, much better adhesive properties than polyester.

[Capt. Bob]

Now this is getting very interesting. The Euro transom should look...mmm, different on this model

A 270 SeaHunter.

Good luck.

[orb]

Now this is getting very interesting. The Euro transom should look...mmm, different on this model

A 270 SeaHunter.

Good luck.

I know, I know. I have never really liked the look of euro transoms, but it looks equally odd to have a flat transom with a 36" bracket sticking straight back.

[wingtime]

I never was a huge fan of the euro transom either.... until I owned one.  Now I love it.  Nice dry decks, lower noise due to the engine being behind the transom, boat behaves and handles like a larger boat... etc etc.  Interesting project.  I can't wait to see the progress.