1972 19' 1" Gull Aquasport rebuild- finally back at it

[Tim/GA]

Ok, time for an update!  Finally remembered to take a few pics before it got to dark.  Will be moving soon, cannot wait to have that 2 car plus garage!

Finished up the the outer stringer work and layed the extra layer of 1708 on the rest of the hull.



Finished glassing in the stern section of the stringers.  The PVC is just loose, have to finish the rigging tubes and install the last outer and one inner bulkheads.



Cut the last 2 pieces for the floor as well, will be a large access hatch in the center of that piece.  Have glassed the bottom of both and will cut access for hatches and rigging tubes before laying the floor.  Not ready to install them yet, have to finish the rigging tubes, tab in the bulkheads and foam the last part of the stringers.  Need to get the floor in and glassed on top soon so I can move the boat though.



Fuel tank bay for a 36 gallon Tempo poly tank.  Have a piece of plywood cut for the bottom of the bay, need to glass it still though.  I still have to find out how the tank should be tied down though.  I am looking at using tank tie down straps though.  Any thoughts?

[JimCt]

Maybe consider using nylon straps so as to minimize chafing if there is any slight tank movement  They'll also allow for easier tank removal for the times you want to clean out under it.  Tempo may have some recommendations for securing.

Progress looks good.

[John Jones]

http://www.tempoproducts.com/2004/bd_fuel_tanks2.html

bottom of the page

[Tim/GA]

I was looking at using nylon straps that are sold for holding down tanks, not all that sure they are for permanent tanks though.  The Tempo hold downs are for the smaller tanks and the part they call a cradle is for the larger tanks but costs 80+ bucks and I am not sure if it will work with my tank bay anyway.  I am hoping that the straps will be alright I guess.

Also working on how to finish the edges of the deck piece for covering the tank and the edges of the deck itself so that it looks good and all.

[Shine]

I would use the metal brackets, they are sold by tempo also.  Put Neoprene strips under the tank.  Foaming it in is optional

[Tim/GA]

Shine, do you have any experience with the Tempo metal straps (I think they call the set up a cradle) and how they mount, how much room needed, etc.?  I do guess that it would be best to go with their mounting system.

Still working out the rigging tubes as I have a bunch of them at the stern and am having to cut/drill the bulkheads and stringers for them.  Swear I am going to burn out the drill using the hole saw on the stringers though.

Question, I have always used very slow hardener since most of my work has been in the heat of GA summers and they have all been non-blushing.  With the cooler weather I have used some of the medium hardener lately (I am using resin from U.S. Composites).  I like the slow stuff better as it is non-blushing and a bit thinner than the medium but now I am seeing something different.  Last night the weather was extremely humid and foggy.  It might as well have rained from the look of the ground.  Tonight I noticed some areas that appeared "wet" on some of the areas used the medium hardener last weekend and an orange looking powder in some areas.  Is this the amine blush?  I am going to call the company tomorrow to check with them but thought I would ask.

[JimCt]

http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/Epoxresl.htm#blush

[Tim/GA]

Thanks Jim, good site for epoxy info.  I talked to US Composites and the extreme heat and humidity of that night after some cold/cool days and nights must have been the reason.  It is unusual and has not happened again.  I also noticed it was worst in areas where 3 or even 4 layers of 1708 had been layed up and cured together so there was a lot of resin and glass there.

Sorry no updates lately, my internet is down at home every night (works during the day when I am not home though- Comcast is not my favorite right now).  I meant to bring the latest pics to work today but forgot them.  Anyway- rigging tubes are in ( I may have overdone the number of them though!) and the floor is cut, glassed on the underside and the holes cut for the rigging tubes and hatch.  Ready to install soon.  Have to foam the stern portion of the stringers and the last bulkhead and I can lay her in.  That will be a big day, like getting a house roughed in and moving on to the finishing (but no where near done!)

Will post pics as soon as I can.

[Tim/GA]

Ok, here are the pics

Rigging tubes in, may seem like a lot of them but to reach the areas I wanted them to this was the best I could come up with.  Will not use all of them right away but plan to in the future and would hate to not have them then.  The tubes will be coming up in boxes at that stern.  The starboard will also hold 2 batteries and the port will have the rear live well.  I also ran a tube to the bow for a smaller forward livewell so the person fishing from the stern does not end up passing bait all of the time.



This is the set up I came up with for forming the lip on the drain tube when installed.  That is a practice tube there.



Rain tonight and tomorrow morning but clearing after that.  Plan to lay in the final floor pieces tomorrow and glass the top on Sunday.  Oh, finished foaming the stringers and bulkheads and part of the under deck area as well.  Tip- put the foam cans in hot water for a good bit before measuring and mixing to get the best expansion.  Especially in this cooler weather.

[JimCt]

Foam cans??? What are you foaming with?  Foam I'm using is 4#.  With this material I think if the components were heated any there would be no time for it to flow before expanding.

The PVC runs do look complicated  but you are right in putting in every potential run you think might be needed.  Your flair tooling looks like it will do the job just fine.  How will the flare seal?  Do you insert the tube in the 5200 buttered hole and flare it down?

Progress looks great... keep the pictures & narrative coming.

[John Jones]

There are never enough rigging tubes.
Lookin' good.

[Tim/GA]

Jim, after reading the FAQ on US Composite's web page and talking to someone familiar with the 2 part foams I found that the temp of the mix does not noticeable change the amount of time you have to mix (25 seconds for this stuff) and pour (another 20 seconds or so).  What it does do is maximize the expansion.  For instance, the FAQ said that the expansion of the foam is best at 80 degrees and temps around 60 degrees can cut the expansion by half.  Not a good use of expensive foam!  The temps here were in the high 60s so by warming the 2 parts first I was able to still get very good expansion this time.  Still have to work fast but that is normal!  Ended up making a bit of a mess the time I tried mixing in the same container as the previous batch as it kicked off to fast.  I normally use cut off 2 liter bottles to measure out the 2 parts and gallon milk jugs that have been cut like you would to make a bailer for your boat to mix them in.  This way I can sort of make a funnel with the lip and pour more accurately and have plenty of them on hand.

I already used the flaring tool to install the bilge drain tube.  I am using 1" wide tubes.  I drilled the hole with a 1 1/8" bit and used the round head bolt pictured and the hammer to begin the flair while the tube is out of the boat (just slightly).  I coated the inside of the hole and outside of the tube with epoxy and used cabosil thickened epoxy in the hole.  I inserted the tube from the outside so the pre-flared end is on the outside and then packed as much thickened epoxy as I could into the area around the tube.  Next I used the tool to tighten and flair the tube until it was tight inside and out and last used thickened epoxy to make sure everything was good and covered.  One thing I will add next time is a "bushing" made of something like PVC inside of the tube and around the bolt.  This will help in centering the rig a bit better and make it easier to use.  Also, I did cut of the edge of the washers on the inside so that the cut side fit against the hull bottom.  Only cut off what is necessary though.  Oh, and this is a bit of a messy job and longer handles on the wrenches might make it easier to do the tightening.

Yep, the PVC runs took some time to work out, cut access for, glue, etc. but will be worth it in the long run I think.  I could not get long bend 90 degree fittings for the smaller tubes so I used 45 degree bends with a short piece between them to make sure the bends were as long as possible.  Should work out well (I hope!)
Ok, long post but hope it helps someone when it comes to these things on theirs!

[Tim/GA]

Oops, forgot to say that I am  using the  2LB foam since it is not structural.

[JimCt]

When I foamed my stringers I got a little concerned it was kicking off too fast.  Poured in 75-80 deg. weather.  Just enough time to mix the components for about 10 seconds, another 10 seconds to pour and it started growing maybe 5 seconds after that.  Made the huge mistake of forgetting to snap on gloves once; hands had foam on them for 3 days!  Holds like death...

Those PVC runs you've put in have got me thinking about doing something similar before the deck goes down.  I'm thinking that maybe instead of using  45's to make sweeps, there may be long sweeps available in PVC electrical conduit.  Maybe before you close up the deck it would be a good idea to snake in messengers through those raceways.

Thanks for the descriptions of what you're doing.  Lots of good ideas...

[Tim/GA]

I used thin wall PVC for the rigging tubes.  There were long bend 90 degree fittings for the 3 inch PVC run but not for the smaller tubes so ended up with the 2 45s instead.

I also forgot to mention (or take pics) that I glued (resin, cabosil and 1/4" chopped glass) plywood to the underside of the deck boards anywhere that there will be a butt joint that is not on a stringer or bulk head.  Also did the same with a length of wood on the transom between the stringers so the floor will have something to be glued to and will provide better support.  And, you are right- that foam is NO joke.  I had one batch that I was a bit messy and even the areas that I got to with acetone right away did not completely clean up.