First time boat owner / boat launching question(s) -

[stanggt]

I hope I don't sound too dumb but when launching the boat I know the drain plugs go in before getting to ramp and come out after launching...My question is do you put them in from the inside or outside of the transom?  I have the expanding rubber type with the flip handle.  

Some other pre-checks items I think I know -

before leaving house-
check fuel
check battery(s)
check all tie downs
check trailer tires
check safety gear - PFD(s), radio, whistle, flares, etc

before getting to ramp while at ramp site,
Unhook stern straps
get bow/stern lines/fenders ready
disconnect trailer wire from truck
ensure outboard raised
check drain plugs installed

launching -
back trailer until stern floats, park truck with emergency brake on.  
have helper get bow/stern lines and be ready to move/tie off boat
unhook bow safety chain
loosen winch strap and remove.
either push boat off trailer or drive off (after lowering outboard and starting).

Once in water
remove drain plugs

get ready to fish...

I am a noob at this though I have seen it done many times, just never did it myself.

[pete]

When I had a boat with that type of plug I put it in from the inside.2 reasons,can't lose it if it falls out,and if bilge pump fails you can plane off,pull plug and water will drain out,don't ask me how I know this.
Welcome aboard!

[Whitewater]

Hi Stan,

The drain plug goes in prior to getting in the water and comes out when you are back in the air on the trailer agian.  I would pull it when you get in the trailer and drop it into the boat so you don't lose it.  The ride out of the parking lot shold push all your bilge water out the drain hole as you get forward momentum.  

As a personal preference I swapped my rubber flip stopper out for a screw in plug.  Less chance of losing it in the water from either water flow pressure or weed/debris passing by.  My thought is that it was a more secure set up.  

Hope that helps

Whitewater

[stanggt]

I think there are two separate issues being discussed here.
The bilge drain plug and the scupper drain plugs.

I have a brass screw in bilge drain plug  (center bottom transom) that will go in before hitting the water and come out when back on trailer.

The expandable rubber plugs are for the scupper deck drains (deck level transom).  They will go in at the ramp and come out once in the water.

Does that sound about right?

[pete]

sounds right,the rest of your checklist is right on as well  

[seabob4]

One thing that hasn't been mentioned, but what I recommend.  Run the motor on the muffs before leaving the house.  How many times have you seen boats at the ramp that won't fire off, and the owners sit there trying to figure out WTF is wrong with the boat half in the water, on a busy Saturday morn...get my drift?  

[pete]

that's a good tip!!most important thing about boat launching and recovering is have a system,and have those you usually go with know it.

[stanggt]

I agree with the running the motor before leaving the house statement.  My motor take me 5-10 min to start up from a cold start.  I believe its the gas causing this as the motor was just gone thru by a reputable mechanic where I work.  He stated the gas has too much oil in it plus the previous owner told me the gas is around a year old.  The tank is nearly full so I want to get the boat out and burn up around 20-25 gallons so I can put fresh gas in it.  Either way by "warming" up the engine before leaving the house you will get that warm fuzzy knowing it will start at the ramp.
Good advice

[Whitewater]

One thing that hasn't been mentioned, but what I recommend.  Run the motor on the muffs before leaving the house.  How many times have you seen boats at the ramp that won't fire off, and the owners sit there trying to figure out WTF is wrong with the boat half in the water, on a busy Saturday morn...get my drift?  

Excellent add in Bob!!

[seabob4]

 Either way by "warming" up the engine before leaving the house you will get that warm fuzzy knowing it will start at the ramp.  Good advice

Unless it fell off the transom halfway to the ramp!!!

We like to have fun here, stang.  J/K!!!  Sounds like you have a good plan...  

[stanggt]

 Either way by "warming" up the engine before leaving the house you will get that warm fuzzy knowing it will start at the ramp.  Good advice

Unless it fell off the transom halfway to the ramp!!!

We like to have fun here, stang.  J/K!!!  Sounds like you have a good plan...  

Wouldn't that suck.  LOL.

[seabob4]

 Either way by "warming" up the engine before leaving the house you will get that warm fuzzy knowing it will start at the ramp.  Good advice

Unless it fell off the transom halfway to the ramp!!!

We like to have fun here, stang.  J/K!!!  Sounds like you have a good plan...  

Wouldn't that suck.  LOL.

Ahh, the shift/throttle cables would stay attached, you'd just drag it down the road for a while.  Little road rash, she'd buff right out...  

[wingtime]

Looks good.  I usually do what Bob says and start my motor at the house on the muffs before I leave the house or at least the night before it I'm leaving in the early AM.  My current motor is really easy to start so I don't do it all the time now unless I haven't used the boat in a few weeks.

[dburr]

Stang take a GOOD LONG LOOK at the way the boat sits on the trailer if you have not done so.. The bunks and or wobble wheels should be well under the boat under the stringers if at all possible...  Ensuring that nothing will get hung up on the chines will make for an easy recovery which is more then half the "battle".

I had an absolute horror show last week when I hauled out for the season.  Because of the stars and lust in my eyes at launching I failed to notice that the wobble wheels were over hanging the chine flats on the starboard side.  I can see that now from pictures..       What happened on haul out was that the back set of WW were so far apart that they left nasty black tread marks in the bow and would catch on the chines and not allow the boat to stay centered on the trailer.  The fix ended up being to get the whole rig submerged to the point that the trailer hitch was over hanging the water, (ramp angle was really flat). It was the worst recovery that I have ever had, over an hour tying up the ramp, thank the great spirt and the god that protects children, idiots and Ag pilots that no one was waiting and there were no witnesses other then the Big Boss.

Needless to say, all the hardware is on hand to move the roller sets to where they need to be, all that is needed now is a day with no rain and the time...

Best of luck to you on your first trip!

[seabob4]

You know what Bruce said is absolutely true.  A well maintained motor will fire off in a heartbeat.  Most you don't have to prime after the initial prime at the beginning of the season.  BTW, we don't have beginnings and ends, it's year round!

You can always fire up the motor without muffs just to see if she catches, then shut right down.  Some say this will cook the impeller.  Well, I have 4 friends that work for Mercury, BRP, Suzuki, and Honda.  OEM field application engineers.  They all say a few seconds run dry won't hurt the impeller.

Not that I'd do it on a regular basis, just saying...