Sunk twin Yam 200s

[mevince]

Picked up the Grady today and got a picture from the PO of how he found it the morning under water. Appears the motors never actually went under. What are the thoughts now? Any better than once thought?

[wingtime]

Any damage that has been done is already done...   I'd say the boat will have some electrical problems in due time.  I'd spray the motors down with corrosion X or something like that and run the snot out of them... cant do any more damage than what has already been done... either they will be OK or they will have problems.

[love2fish]

What caused the boat to "sink"?
looks like that guy is pretty good friends with his insurance-man! haha. All kidding aside, looks like you got a really good deal and hopefully the motors are in good shape.

[gran398]

Completely different story now. The powerheads weren't submersed, GREAT news.

Get them running as Bruce suggests

You got a DEAL

[fitz73222]

They may be very well alive and unharmed. If the carbs didn't go under they may be just fine. Get them running now!

[mevince]

Awesome! Thats what I was hoping to hear. He said his mech said they needed wiring harnesses. I plan to rewire everything that went under. I got him to show me why it sank. He showed me a hose that is attached to a hull drain out the side. It "some how" fell below the water line. Im gonna bust them open & see what they look like.

[dburr]

Good hevans that hardly counts as being sunk!  A friend of mine used to fish a 22 Sisu that had a 175 Black Max with a hydraulic pump mounted on top of the fly wheel to run the pot hauler.. After a paticularly raucous night    :!:   loading herring she was left on the mooring with the scuppers stiil blocked (so the fish couldn't get out) at about 3am, but they also could not drain .  Then the rain started.. It was cats, dogs and elephants, and she filled, rolled and sunk so only the bow was showing.  The rain stopped and a group of us, much worse for the wear,    went to work and had her floated by noontime.  The plugs were pulled, WD 40 shot in the cylinders, and everywhere else on the head.  The battery was changed and the wire harness connections were  pulled, heated carefully with a torch, then dipped in a 50/50 mix of acetone and Marvel Mystery Oil, then blasted with contact cleaner.  

Somehow there was no water in the gas or the 10 gallon hydraulic oil tank..  She fired right up and then ran fine for the next three years.

You got one whacking great deal! Even though it is a Grady....  

[mevince]

dburr thats a great story! Drink and fish all day. Sink a boat and come out with nothing but a hangover!:cheers: The Grady will def need a transom. I wanted a project so that will give me something to do. Took a good look at the motors today. There is some corrosion in a few places as expected. Def doesnt look like its ruined in any way. Looks like the mech he took it to may have sprayed it down with something already but didnt get everything. Has two tanks. Both will def come out and all lines replaced this winter. All wiring will get replaced. There is only one spot in the entire boat that feels soft surprisingly but Im not sure if I wanna cut into the floor this year of not.

Should I concentrate more on getting the motors running asap or leave them for later? I will have more play money after the first of the year which would work better for me but if they need run asap I will try to work on them. If it doesnt matter either way I will concentrate more on the boat now. That way if the motors dont work out I can get some before next season.

seabob4, I did go back over to the darkside and post the SeaCraft. They never really took me in over there though. Scott and others made me feel welcome here. Im more about family, friends, and camaraderie. Thats why I only look around at THT too. Your just a number over there.

[gran398]

Hey, we're glad you're here!

Looking forward to meeting you Sunday morning and seeing the flatback

We won't forget you were an AS guy first

Everyone recommends you get those bad boys running ASAP. Even if you have to wait on the harnesses, get them spinning, cranked and running. Run on a remote tank for safety's sake, keeping H20 out of the equation.

If you can spin them over, and at least get them coughing is certainly better than nothing. And running would be great, even if they don't sound just right for now. You'll preserve some serious money with an effort right away.

You could show that pic to any knowledgeable potential buyer, and double your money right now. Get 'em running Top Priority, and good for you

[wingtime]

I'd fire those suckers up.  Like Scott said use a remote fuel tank to be safe. Unplug them from the harness and rig up a remote start and kill switch..  Get em running and nice and warm!

[mevince]

Ok, I uncovered these beasts today. There was not as much corrosion as expected. A few nuts or bolts here & there but mainly on the positive terminal of the solenoids. I cleaned and sprayed them all down. I dont quite understand the three solenoid setup. Was going to try to at least turn them over but couldnt figure it out & didnt wanna burn anything up. Steering arms looked rough too. Ill post pics later.

[fitz73222]

Two of the solenoids are for the power trim system. One for up, one for down the third is the starter. Get them running on a 6 gallon tank with 50-1 pre mix and get them oiled up. I would not waste another minute!

[mevince]

[mevince]

fitz is it the third from the top or the bottom? On a car you can jump out the solenoid to turn it over. Is it the same here? There are a lot of pigtails unplugged I assume by the mech that looked at them. Should I put everything back together and start them from the switch at the cc or try to do it from the motors? My number is 864-723-5365 if someone would like to call me and walk me thru the process. Im pretty quick with stuff once I understand it but Im cautious enough to not try it on my own for fear of burning something up and costing more money in the end.

Pulled all the plugs also and there is no corrosion on the plug or inside.

[gran398]

What Fitz said, fresh mixed gas, fresh batts, and start cranking.

The rust you show is the only piece on the engine that is cast steel. Maybe the steering tube additionally. Take a wire brush/scraper to it and get some Ospho in a spray bottle and load it up. The rust will turn black and then powdery white. At some point in time it should be replaced.

Get the engines running first

PS just saw your new post pop up, wish could assist you there. But you'll be assisted