Help: Steering locked up

[CTsalt12]

Ok so since I've had the boat I went probably the longest time since use, couple weeks.  Just replaced my fuel filter (see my previous threads), and also just pulled up the deck to inspect tank.  It's all back assembled an I notice my steering is locked up.  Ahh what have I done.  Guess this is my next job.  What should be the first things I troubleshoot here?  Is it possible when I was moving
Things around the hydraulic cables got bent, kinked, squished etc?  It
Really won't budge at all...

[CTsalt12]

Another important detail: steering arm is completely in the tube wheel is all the way to one side.

[seabob4]

Jimbo,
You say that the drag link (steering arm) is all the way in the tilt tube...hydraulic steering doesn't use the drag link.  You sure you have hydraulic steering?

[CTsalt12]

Actually it's mechanical steering.

[gran398]

Take a small chunk of 2 X 4 and a hammer....use the wood as a buffer, lightly bang on the center linkage a bit. If the arm wasn't buried you could pop it from the outside.

If its only been a few weeks this should be all you need. Then degrease with solvent, then fresh grease.

If this doesn't work you'll need to disassemble the whole enchilada. If the tube is real gunked up, take a brush on a drill to it, like cleaning a shotgun bore.

On teleflex steering, leave the engine centered when tilted, and keep it lubed. In the winter, spin the wheel every few weeks

[Georgie]

X2...Great advice Gran.  

Sometimes it helps to have one person putting some pressure (but not so much that you could strip anything) on the steering wheel while the other tugs on the lower unit to balance out the torque and break free a stuck steering rod.  Also consider a wiper nut for your steering tube to keep salt out of the mechanism once you've freed it and lubed it.  They're pretty dang expensive at like $25-$30 each though!    

I already permanently lost one steering rod/tube that "welded" itself together and don't ever plan to let that happen again.

[saltfly]

I think like every one here. I feel it the steering rod in the tilt tube. But I do a check, just to make sure. First I would back off the nut at the motor tilt tube. They turn the wheel. If the nut moves back and forth. You know the helm and cable is OK. You also know, its the steering arm in the tube. If that is it. I’m going to tell you what Bob told me. Use PB blaster on both ends of the tube. Take your time. Let it soak for a day or two, but keep putting PB on both ends. I use the red tube, on the can and spray it in the tilt tube. I do one other thing that I don’t recommend. To most people unless you really know what you are doing and have the right material to block off the motor. And transom. I cover everything up. Around the tilt tube, then clean all a round the top of the transom and tilt tube. I then use  a heat gun and apply heat to the center of  the tube. This will help wick PB into the tube. I also, I guess, don’t do what a lot of people do. I don’t use any grease on the steering tube. It will collect everything it comes in contact with, and unless it is cleaned. It will lock up. I use  a heavy weight oil. I also oil it  several time during the year. I also take mine a part, and clean out the tilt tube, once a year. This may seem excessive, but I don’t want to be 30 miles off shore and have my steering freeze. Also one last thing. I have a piece of heavy walled tubing that just fits over the steering tube. It fits snug. I use this to keep the end of the rod, where the whole is from mushrooming. When taping it out. It will if you are not careful.

[gran398]

The heavy oil idea is a good one.

[wingtime]

Been there done that....  Saltfly is spot on...  I had to use a propane torch on mine...  carefully since the tube is usually aluminum.  The old grease was as hard as a rock...  heat and PB loosened it up...   be careful what you beat on with the BFH.  even with a wood block you can break something.  The heavy oil is a good idea...  I use the Mercury stuff with the teflon in it..

[saltfly]

Also once you get the rod out of the tube. You will have to clean the tube. One last subjection. Go to McMaster.com This is McMaster Carr supply. In the search block , type in bead hones. You can find these in all sizes. I bought one a number of years ago. And it is still in use. Theirs nothing better to clean out the tilt tube.  Its made of silicon carbide abrasive beads and has a flexible shaft. Its not to faxable but flexes just enough to run it in and out ,from both sides.  They come in different courses. I bought the Medium grit. For the ¾ id cylinder. Its 8”  long with  2½” of abrasive. Their  $16.33 and worth every penny. Put it in any drill and go to it, works well for me.

[CTsalt12]

I ended up doing a little hammering, nothing.  Then pulled the steering tube out of the tilt tube after a little twisting with a vise grip.  That did the trick.  Steering tube was left without any grease, probably need to clean the tilt tube as I had some resistance while steering.  Thanks everybody.  I like the heavy oil idea as well.  I won't make this mistake again, this needs to be maintained a couple times a year and I guess it's best to leave the engine in neutral position.

J

[gran398]

Good deal Jimbo, glad you got her fixed