1971 Flatback

[aqua70]

I give you guys credit. Short pants and fiberglass? ITCHY!!!
A couple questions.
What did you screw the DRYWALL screws into and will they rust?
Did you "hot coat" the plywood before you glassed it in to the sole?
It looks great. Good Luck!  aqua 70

[LilRichard]

Thanks for the encouragement guys.  Yeah, I should have given better detail on the procedure.

Bottom was coated with 1808... I should have used a lighter cloth, but that was all I had and it needed to be done, so I probably added 20 lbs to the deck by doing so.

After the bottom kicked, I ground out the pattern of the stringers on the bottom (because 5200 needs rough glass for adhesion).  Ground glass on tops of stringers, and cleaned with Acetone.  Then liberally applied 5200 to stringers, laid the sole down.  I used drywall screws to secure the floor to the stringers, then laid down a fillet of thickened resin and tabbed down the floor with 1808.  

The screws should not be an issue for two reasons: 1) they are not structural... they were only used to bring the floor completely into contact the stringers until the tabbing and 5200 cures.  2) the screws went through the floor into the stringers, but they are completely encapsulated.  They are sealed by 5200 at the stringer/floor seam (where they enter the stringer) and they have been glassed over on the top.

Then the top of the floor was glassed with a layer of 3615 followed by a layer of 1808.  Basically that's equivalent to 3 layers of 1808.

Let me know if anyone has any other questions...

[MJB]

LilRichard,

Thanks for the info on the sole -- I like the plan.  Any idea yet on what you plan to put down for paint on the sole??

[LilRichard]

Most likely going the imron route for the entire boat if I can find a suitable facility in which to paint it.  My friend has a paint booth, but it's automotive... so it's too small.  I have considered rolling/tipping... but with this much work into the boat, I would rather spray.  I will let you know as I figure it out.

[aqua70]

Just a suggestion: I would just gel coat the sole. Use an Interlux non skid additive to the final coat. You can color or tint the final coat as well.
It worked out well for us.

[LilRichard]

Gelcoat is very porous I have heard that and stains easily when used for floors... any problems with that on your hull?

And why gel over paint inside?

[John Jones]

RickK has a good floor procedure.

[LilRichard]

JJ- Was planning on that exact procedure using Imron.  Would really like some input here... have heard Imron is the way to go... any reasons not to?

[John Jones]

Imron or Awlgrip.
I have no preference.  Both are great.
Imron is seriously hazardous to your health.  I don't know about Awlgrip but I assume it is about the same health-wise.  DuPont (Imron) suggests a full body suit with forced air supply when spraying, not just a mask.  I have used it in industrial applications.  It is good stuff.

[LilRichard]

I believe imron is easier to blend, plus it is sandable/buffable.  Agreed on the health risks.  My old man says they sprayed that stuff in the 70s with cotton dust masks... maybe that's why his kid is crazy?

 

[RickK]

For the hull out and insides  - I've never used Awlgrip but my 170 is Imron'd - the Imron is pretty durable and if done right has reflectivity like a mirror.  The first time I sprayed it, I had mirror until it sagged down in a few places.  The 2nd coat, I was spooked by the first and it didn't end up as shiny.
For the floor, I think I would use Gelcoat with the procedure that I posted in the resource section - very easy to do and a superb anti-skid surface and then wax it using Woody's wax to protect it from staining.  Woody's is a non-skid wax that JJ turned us on to.
My $.02

[MJB]

My other boat I used Awlgrip throughout, spraying the hull in/out and rolling non-skid on the cockpit sole.  I was real pleased with the results and find it extremely durable.  I've heard alot about Imron from here and CM but have never used it.  

RickK,

In the resources you mention the wax to prevent staining, is that something you would have to do routinely??

[John Jones]

Woody Wax does prevent staining and makes clean-up much easier.  My flats boat non-skid is pretty much like Rick's procedure with the glass beads.  Blood, guts, cast net muck just hoses off.  Exposed to the sun it has to be re-applied about every month.  I have a cover on the flats boat so I get about 3 months between applications.  It is not labor intensive like paste or normal liquid wax.  

Clean the boat
Squirt a tiny amount of WW on your brush.  
Scrub it in good.  
Let it dry.
Rinse it off completly with a hard spray from the hose.
Dry with a towel.

I have not put any wax of any kind on the AQ because I don't want it to interfere when I get around to painting.

[RickK]

Squirt a tiny amount of WW on your brush.

That's the part I was unsure of (directions didn't say how much) and used probably 10 times more than I should have and rubbed it in by hand - floor was kinda brown when I was done   . Still wasn't slick at all and is wearing off now but still have enough for a year.  Next time I'll use a "tiny amount"   .

[John Jones]

Everyone does that the first time because it just doesn't seem to be enough.  :)  Two squirts does the topsides of my flats boat.  

I have been using Collenite Fleet Wax on the hull but everyone I know is raving about RejeX.  One guy I know swears even love bugs just hose off of his truck.  RejeX does NOT contain any cleaners or abrasives so the hull must be prepped with something else the first time to get the oxidation and stains off.  NOT for non-skid.

http://www.corrosionx.com/rejexFAQ.html