67 - 22'2 Flatback Diver Rebuild

[OldSkool67]

I have made a few post here and there but figured it was time to start the official "rebuild" thread.

Shes a 67 22'2 flatback diver with a 85 235 evinrude. I am the 3rd owner, the previous owner had it for 22 years. Its a bit cobbled up but still a functional boat. My original plan was to ditch the motor when I did the rebuild but its been the epitome of reliable, starts first crank everytime and runs without a problem. I figure it would be bad karma to buy a newer motor, I would probably wind up with a lemon anyway.

I have to use the boat through October for alligator season so Im not able to start from the inside out like I would like to have. So to make use of my time I started with sanding and preping the exterior sides of the boat. I plan to paint and finish that, then in November gut the boat and work on the bottom of the hull which will need some work due to a horrible grinding sanding job someone did to remove some bottom paint.

I dont have the expectation of the type of fit and finish a boat built by Hammerhead or Bayside would have. I aim to make it durable and most of all fishable. I love the boat already as it sits now, so I can only imagine how much I will enjoy it after all my blood sweat and tears are poured into it.

[OldSkool67]

The hull before prep.






crack in the diving platform mount area




after a lot of sanding. The boat had 3 different paint jobs, besides the org gelcoat.







boat after tooling dye



some patch work

[OldSkool67]

after the priming





I plan on changing the way the dive platform is hinged and supported, its also getting a teak dive platform.
I boxed out the old indents for the platform hinges.




The trolling motor mount. Verion 1.0, version 2.0 will be even better and powder coated after the rebuild.

[RickK]

Great progress  
The teak dive platform will be unique - can't wait to see it.  Did the boat come with the original?  Might want to save it in case you or the next owner wants to take it back to original.

[OldSkool67]

No I dont have the old platform, I do still have the hinges and rods... I dont see a new owner in this boats future, shes a cash up front transaction so I dont think its going anywhere. As long as Im on the right side of the sod that is.

[gran398]

Thanks for sharing the pics!  Her lines are beautiful

[sealion2288]

Looks great in gray....

[wrightex]

I like the trolling motor idea....going to do something like that to my '70 22-2.

What length shaft, volts and thrust is the Minn-Kota?

Thanks.

[OldSkool67]

Looks great in gray....

Yes it does and thanks

I like the trolling motor idea....going to do something like that to my '70 22-2.

What length shaft, volts and thrust is the Minn-Kota?

Thanks.

its a 60 inch (longest made by minn kota) and 80 pound thrust, it moves the boat great. Will be even better when I remove all the waterlogged foam and wood.

When I redo the top cap Im going to move the locatin of the base plate. I will relocate the anchor locker door to the underside and be able to slide the base plate foward a bit more. Dont under estimate the strength of a 80 lbs trolling motor, it crushed my first mount made from square stock. This one is 1/4 inch aluminum and it still flexes. You need to distribute the load as much as possible thru the top cap. I wil really be beefing up my cap when I resto the boat. Maybe even a 1/4 piece of aluminum built in the underside. Also when you have such a big trolling motor it takes up a large area when stowed, so you want to be able to align it to sit along the cap, it also helps when you run in rough water to have a support from the trolly to the cap. Mine couldnt line up that way becuase of the locker door, so I have it as far over as I can. When its rough it will bounce and flex alot. I should be able to make some small changes to help that when I remake the base plate.


you can see here mine does not sit over the cap. it really needs to.

here is a picture of the support rod you can cut to size if its over the cap.


If you need any other info let me know, I would be more then willing to help in any way I can.

[wrightex]

Thanks for the response and extra pictures - they help a lot.

[gran398]

OS,

We may be interested in converting the C & S flatback to a diver model like yours. If you would, could you please take some pics of the inside of the hull, showing the engineering in that area? Also...the outside where you've already pictured...can you tell much about the vertical thickness there?

Thank you

[Callyb]

OS, I am chomping at the bit to dig into mine and I am glad to see you got moving on your so quick :!: Looks awesome so far. Did you settle on a top coat yet?

[OldSkool67]

OS,

We may be interested in converting the C & S flatback to a diver model like yours. If you would, could you please take some pics of the inside of the hull, showing the engineering in that area? Also...the outside where you've already pictured...can you tell much about the vertical thickness there?

Thank you

I will have pictures posted later tonight for you.

OS, I am chomping at the bit to dig into mine and I am glad to see you got moving on your so quick :!: Looks awesome so far. Did you settle on a top coat yet?

Thanks! Im going with the Epifanes 2 part topside paint and Ive decided to spray instead of roll and tip.
These are a few factors in my decision,
1. Cost is not out of this world
2. Jamestown will custom color blend to match any awlgrip color (this was a big factor for me)
3. paint repairs and touch ups are supposed to be more seemless.

[OldSkool67]

more pics

[gran398]

OS, you have posted the first interior pics of the 22-2 diver door.

The members are appreciative!

Thanks