Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild

[h20ryder]

dirtwheelsfl
I thought of backing plates before but didn't really know how to attach them. Maybe 8x8 aluminum angle drilled and bolt it to the stringer? (Shown in BLUE)
Does aluminum need to be treaded or sealed before glassing over?
That would be much cheaper and less time consuming than builing boxes/trapezoids. As long as I don't have to gusset it because I don't have a TIG welder.

Salt Creek is a really fun wave. Gets crazy crowded almost every day but its one of the better barrel spots around here.

[dirtwheelsfl]

just a good grinding will do on the aluminum, make sure you lay it up before it starts oxidizing though, which is very quick. i wouldnt want it bedded onto raw wood, make sure its bedded onto glass. going the angle route, i dont think gussets would be necessary. the stringer is going to take any downward load on the angle, which is going to be nil anyway. that setup will be very rigid when everything is working together (deck, alum. angle, stringers). id use an etching primer on the aluminum if you go the angle route, and cover that with a good epoxy paint. and use alot of tef-gel on the screws!

[gran398]

That'll get the job done... wouldn't hurt to go heavy on the tab layup on the stringers beneath the angle.

[dburr]

Aluminum angle is a great idea... Up this way aluminum channel is used for engine beds and is epoxied and bolted to the frames and stringers.. Be way faster the building up for the cleats.. Nice CAD.. What are you using?  An option for the 8x if you go that way is it can be glued to the underside of the deck before you lay it down..

[love2fish]

That angle aluminum is perfect- one suggestion: Maybe if you have clearance, I would put the "down" side of the alum on the "inside" wall of the stringer, so the top (flat side that the floor will rest on) also sits on the top of the stringer... still facing the same way you have it in the drawing, just on the opposite side of that stringer. That way your not relying only on bolts to hold it in place.

Hope that makes sense...

Great CAD drawings by the way...

[gran398]

That angle aluminum is perfect- one suggestion: Maybe if you have clearance, I would put the "down" side of the alum on the "inside" wall of the stringer, so the top (flat side that the floor will rest on) also sits on the top of the stringer... still facing the same way you have it in the drawing, just on the opposite side of that stringer. That way your not relying only on bolts to hold it in place.

Hope that makes sense...

Great CAD drawings by the way...

Smart

Total beef. If extra width is needed...go with the next option up...ten inch.

[gran398]

And don't forget...you will need crown on that floor, the 3/16th's plate sitting on top of the stringers as love2 suggests will give you that.

This is gonna come out deluxe

[h20ryder]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

I may be able to put the angle aluminum on the inside wall but it may be tight with my new fuel tank after wrapping the stringers in 2 layers of 1708 and then foam. Planning on epoxying the aluminum to the stringer then through bolt it with stainless bolts, washers, nylocknuts.

Do I need to use angle aluminum for the plywood deck seams too or can I just screw the plywood to the stringers since they won’t receive as much force as the console or t-top section? Shown in RED

I’m using SolidWorks CAD for my diagrams. If anyone ever needs an item roughed in CAD just let me know and I can build it for you.

[love2fish]

using the aluminum might be over-kill on every joint for your deck (and $$$), but if you have access or extra why not.  Not sure where you are getting your glass and resin, but if it's an actual fiberglass shop- they should be able to get some 2 or 4lb "foam" strips for you. They are usually 3/4", 1", or 2" think and come in different widths/lengths. You could easily cut those and glass them to what you already have going to add some width to the ribs where you are going to join your floor sheets.
If I remember correctly, from the transom forward to where the casting deck starts is 14'. so I'd start at the transom and work forward so you have full width sheets (going from side to side so your grains of the plywood are perpendicular to the stringers for maximum strength). So you should only have to beef up 3 of your ribs/bulkheads. Assuming you are going to keep the original casting deck design of the boat.

[RickK]

Love the CAD work - sharp and easy to see the parts  

[RickK]

Hope this is not too stupid of a question - What do you call/part#of the heavy glass "mat" layer that we see in the lower part of the pic?

[dirtwheelsfl]

Looks like 18 oz roven to me maybe 24 oz. Standard layup for the day. Phased out by stitched bias plies nowadays. Heavy, not very strong, and soaks up alot of resin!

[RickK]

Entire floor was grinded and sanded then covered in one layer of 1708 except in the rear where there was a lot of oil canning so I used 2 layers of 1708 and one layer of 24 oz roving.

I thought it looked new.  So h2O, were you just trying to build it up in thickness?

[dirtwheelsfl]

oh i see it now, a whole layer of biaxial in the bottom. i did the same thing, overlapped in the keel and an extra layer in the chines. its much nicer glassing to that than the old woven...

[h20ryder]

I will have to check and see if my local supplier (Crystaliner) has foam strips that I could use for cleats instead of angle aluminum for the deck seams.
There is a local steel supplier I use for all my fab projects but I haven't priced out the angle aluminum yet $$$.

That is 24 oz roving in the pic over the top of 2 layers of 1708. I have about 100 yrds of 24 oz roving and 18 oz unidirectional that I got for dirt cheap from a local fab shop that builds trophy trucks, I guess they use both for building body kits. It was a test to see how much resin is sucks up and the result confirmed that I won't be using either because they suck up resin like a sponge! 18 oz unidirectional is ridiculously thirsty.