Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild

[saltfly]

Your doing a really good job on your boat. I really like the alium. Angle  for mounting. But use loctite on your bolts, going into the alium. It will act as a barrier coat, between the alium. And the sst bolts. To prevent corrosion from building up and eating away the alium. and it will help the bolts from vibrating loose over time. You will be able to get it a part later. Loctite isn't that hard to break free.

[Callyb]

somehow water got into it and destroyed an area adjacent to my casting platform. Maybe fiberglass, resin and gelocat aren't waterproof?

Polyester will allow water to penetrate it over time. Vinylester is better about it, and Epoxy is the most "waterproof". Also please see below...

On my 170 I used 5/8" plywood and just resin coated the bottom.

I think I will run resin with no glass for now just to seal it then scuff it up prior to glassing it once I have my resin order.
With the floor glued and screwed do I also need to use tabbing over the floor seams where each sheet of plywood meets the next?
Or can I just overlap the 1708 over the seams when I lay the entire floor glass?

AC Fir has a tendency to check over time when just coated with resin, 6oz glass will provide enough strength to keep that from happening. This may have been at play in Rick's boat???

H20, for whatever it's worth, I would go with the 6oz on the bottom. If you have the 1708 to cover the floor (and it gives you a better feeling about it) I would glue the floor down, remove all of the screws (fill the holes), seal coat the wood, fill the seams with thickened epoxy, and put your glass down (if your going with 1708).

Also, I don't really like giving advice online. You don't know me or what I know or don't...I guess what I'm saying is everyone is an expert online. I might be a crazy for all you know... :geek:  :rabbit:  :geek:  :rabbit:  :geek:

Check around, I'll do my best not to steer you wrong with the glass stuff though.

[dirtwheelsfl]

With the floor glued and screwed do I also need to use tabbing over the floor seams where each sheet of plywood meets the next?
Or can I just overlap the 1708 over the seams when I lay the entire floor glass?

It depends on the butt blocks( or lack thereof) on the bottom side of the deck. If youve got nice big butt blocks (which it should), or in your case aluminum? then you dont need to tape the seam , although it will wont hurt. I always countersink the screws and leave them in for the mechanical aspect of holding the deck down, and fill the heads with thickened epoxy before glassing. Make sure theyre stainless too!

[gran398]

Will call Seamark in the morning and get their exact deck layup using AC fir ply, and post back.

Have run their 21 this summer as a loaner. The boat is stout, and built to last.

[h20ryder]

The bottom of the floor pieces has already been laminated with 2 layers of 6oz glass from when I built the hatch drip lips.  I have a ton of 6oz left so I will just glass it on top for now as a sealer since it doesn't seem to take much resin to wet it out.

I am planning on leaving all the stainless screws in for a mechanical bond. I have been countersinking and then thickened epoxying over all the #12 screws used so far for other components.

The butt blocks are aluminum angle that are sanded and attached with thickened epoxy and stainless bolts with nylon lock nuts. The way I built my hatches will allow me to reach under every deck screw through the bilge so I can coat them with 5200 once I'm finished to prevent corrosion.

You can see my aluminum angle supports in this pic along with today's work. Coated the first few bilge compartments with Macropoxy 646. I wanted to use Tile-Clad HS but was told it is not available in CA due to environmental restrictions on its ingredients. The 646 is 2 part epoxy paint classified for use on submerged salt water applications. It goes on thick and is self leveling and looks great.

[dirtwheelsfl]

Looks nice n clean! Oughta be like walking on concrete...

[gran398]

Your work is deluxe.

To the extent your deck glassing is complete, will forgo the call.

Keep the pics coming.

[Callyb]

Man, that looks awesome! I didn't realize you were using aluminum angle to anchor the deck, that thing is going to be solid.

[RickK]

Still couldn't hurt to know the schedule.  Do they use wood for the sole too?

Will call Seamark in the morning and get their exact deck layup using AC fir ply, and post back.

Have run their 21 this summer as a loaner. The boat is stout, and built to last.

[h20ryder]

Happy Thanksgiving. Got a little more work done today with the Macropoxy 646. Starting to look like a boat again...finally.

[RickK]

Looking really nice  
When you ran your rigging tubes I know that you can extend the tubes in the front up above the floor a couple inches so water can't get in.  Without a closed in transom how are you going to keep water (rain, washdown, hopefully no waves) from gettin in the tubes in the aft?
Reason I ask is I am going to have the original transom shape and it will remain open. I have the original trough for rigging and wiring going back to the engine from the console. The idea of the trough is that you can seal the topside of the boat from the bilge (there were no hatches into the bilge). I am thinking it might still be the best way for me to route rigging.  I am going to move my fuel tank below my deck so I will have to have some method to get to the fuel tank (a hatch), so the bilge will not be sealed tight like in the old days.

[h20ryder]

I'm thinking I will use a PVC cap on top of the transom risers I have coming out of the rigging tubes. I will cut them in half down the middle after I use a hole saw to make the opening for wires and controls to exit. Then I will probably use a 5200 or other caulking product to seal it water tight. A stainless hose clamp will keep the the cap together along with the caulk. It's an inexpensive solution but we will see how it looks. There are probably some other options too, like a rubber boot on some of the newer boats which I'm sure I can find at an OEM dealer.

[h20ryder]

Gas tank is in and strapped. Attachment holes were overdrilled, filled with thickened epoxy, then redrilled for stainless screws that were also bedded in 5200. 3 straps to prevent vertical tank movement and 1 strap to prevent horizontal tank movement. I went with the 3/8 inch neoprene strips above, below, and all around tank.

[h20ryder]

More setbacks. Floor is completely done and ready to be glued and screwed but as I was prepping the old sole edge that I will be attaching the new sole to I found more rotten wood. The outter edges looked good and solid so I wet them out with 2 coats of epoxy followed by a 3rd layer of thickened epoxy about 1 month ago. All that is getting cut out now. (pic here is before they were sealed with epoxy)
Previous owner had put some trim around the entire sole where it meets the side liner. Small screw holes into the wood every 6 inches that were not sealed and then later painted over. As the paint sanded off I found hole after hole of worm wood. Also found 4 pieces of plywood glassed into the liner walls at the bottom. Maybe these are where the old cap supports screwed into?

[seabob4]

That is a BEAUTIFUL hull!!  Hell, with the L-angle, you wouldn't even need any bonding putty!

Just my 2 cents here on rigging tube 90s.  Those of us that take some of these older boats and re-wire and/or re-rig them, we typically use an old shift cable as a snake.  A lot of older boats, either the pull wire isn't there, or it has gotten horribly lost in the wiring mess below decks.  Might I suggest 45s instead of 90s?  The end of a universal cable likes a 45 a WHOLE lot better than a 90...

Just my 2 cents...